2001Stroker

If it ain't punched through the case, just use a piece of sandpaper to smooth it out some. I just trenched mine, and had to take out 3mm of material inside there. I'm sure a couple of bering pieces didn't gouge it anywhere near that deep. You should be good. Put up a pic.

Where can I find some of that? :biggrin: Yes, you can use 21's at sea level with +4 timing with 93octane.

It's a Banshee, or a bike. That's all I've ever called anyone's Banshee. I've always thought it sounded kinda stupid just saying "shee". Mine is "The Panty Dropper" though. :biggrin: That was even decal'd on the tank cover until the pressure washer destroyed it.

Man, you really should be wearing a helmet. Looks like you're haulin ass. :biggrin: Nice bike dude. Should be fun starting from scratch, getting to do everything like you want it. Good luck with the build.

Nothing to worry about man. I have a brand new set of V-Force3 reeds, still in the box, sitting in my kitchen. Even those have a little gap between the cages and pedals. As fast as those things flap open and shut, it ain't a problem. As long as it ain't a huge gap, don't worry about it.

Go for it. I think you should airbrush the lyrics of that rap song on the rear fender, that you wrote earlier.

For domed pistons, use a negative cc number. Dished pistons, use a positive cc number. Talk to your porter to get the duration. Compression Calculator Conversion Calculator

93 right now is $2.08 here. $1.62 for 87 octane.

Damn. Maybe it's so cheap here because I live by one of the bigger ports. Chesapeake Bay and Intercoastal Waterway. Most all of the major fuel companies are on the water around here. That's where I go to get my fuel.

Andy puts his customers first. A few weeks ago, I bought from him a brand new 73mm x 10mil Cheetah PV Cylinder, which was ported and Nikisil'd, Head, 25cc domes, billet power valves, Wiseco pistons, rings, wristpins, and circlips, CR500 V-Force3 reeds, CR500 billet intakes with boots, complete cylinder gasket kit, complete head o-ring kit, ARP head studs and nuts, and complete stainless hex head bolt set. Everything came very fast, and I have absolutely no complaints about his service. He made sure I was 100% happy with everything that I ordered from him. Great guy to deal with. And not to mention, he was much cheaper than any of the other CP Industries dealers that I had quote me this topend.

How old are you? I'm guessing that's you in the sig pic, so you're about 14 or 15. I hope you don't have a dream of persuing a rap label. Not trying to clown on you, but that really sucked ass. This thread just earned you alot of negative cool points.

Hand tight.

I was thinking the same thing as I was reading it. Looks like I was beat to it. Or, if you have a Dremel, you could put a cut-off wheel on that.

I use the hones with the dingleberry balls on in. Works much better. And yes, lube it. The crosshatches should be at about 15 degrees. If your cylinder is Nikisil'd, you have to use a diamond hone.

Yup. 103 or 104 would be more "ideal", as sredish put it. It's less money, and you won't gain anything out of the 110 over 103 or 104. If 110's more readily available than 103 or 104, then just get 110. It ain't gonna hurt anything, or have poor performance because of it. I seen someone's post on another thread last night, saying they were paying like $8/gal for 110, and like $5/gal for 100LL. That's rediculous. That person's getting ripped off. I pay around $5.45/gal for Sonoco 110. But, I buy it in a barrell. You can get them from 15gal to 55gal barrells.

I've noticed here lately that alot of "mechanics" have no business touching a Banshee. You have to be careful with those o-rings, and make sure they don't get out of the grooves and get pinched. I usually put a thin layer of grease or vasoline on them to keep them in the grooves. Try replacing the radiator cap. They're cheap. It should be able to hold 16psi. You can get them at auto part stores. Find out exactly how much pressure is building up in the cooling system. You can buy testers, that look like a radiator cap with a guage hooked to it. I would take the cylinders off, to inspect them. If you don't have the TORS crap, it takes all of 30 minutes to get the top end off. Then, take the cylinders up to a machine shop to have them cleaned and MagnaFluxed. That is what they use to check for small cracks and leaks.

thanks. I was a little tipsy last night.

Yea, don't use butt connectors and crimps. Not only is it ugly, but water gets in there and makes the wires corrode. I used a 150w electric soldering iron, flux core solder, and some black 1/8" heat shrink tubing. I found that in an 8 foot roll at the auto part store.

yes. You cut both taillights wires completely out.

You can get intake bolts at the hardware store, for less than you'd pay to have them shipped to you. Stainless hex head, 6mmx20mm

no problem dude

I just posted this on someone else's thread. You can completely cut out all of the tors wires. If you want to get rid of the key switch, you have to ground the Red/Black Stripe wire coming out of the CDI. Stock wiring harness. My wiring harness.

Yup. Don't let it get over 200*. You'll feel it start to lose power if it gets that hot.

Use this.

You are going to need a little more than what you can get at the pump, but not 110. If you can get 103 or 104 where you are, I'd use that, and would be more than enough. Check some of your local oil distributors. Usually, they will give you a discounted price if you buy in bulk. 110 is overkill, and just a waste of money. You don't gain any performance just simply using 110. Just like sredish said, it won't effect anything unless you use oxidized fuel.