2001Stroker

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Sounds like you messed up the head gasket, to me. Did you torque it properly, warm it up, and re-torque it again? Do you have a stock head with a gasket, or a cool head with o-rings? If you have a cool head, I'd bet the you pinched an o-ring.

Yes, Trinity's customer service sucks ass. They sent me all wrong stainless steel, allen head engine bolts, and wouldn't replace them, because it was past their "3 Day Warranty". It wasn't my fault that I was not at home when the box was delivered, and didn't open it until 4 days later. I had $2,800 worth of brand new stuff that the FedEx man left sitting on my front porch, because Trinity didn't request a delivery signature.

Tim made me some a-arms. You won't get any better customer service, than with him. Dude knows how to make his customers happy.

What!? You come up with some crazy shit, man. lol.

A trick I learned for the shift shaft seal....Tip the bike up on the right wheels, to get the tranny oil away from the seal. Stick a 90 degree pick right through the middle of the seal, and rip it out. You might have to do it on both sides of the shaft, so it comes out evenly. While you're in there, you might as well check the o-ring on the neutral safety switch cover.

Take the 6 bolts out, and it should fall off.

True that. It sucks. It takes alot of sanding, because it's cast. I started with 120 grit, then 220, 300, 400, and 600. Then I used steel wool. Started with #2, then #0, #00, #000, #0000. Then you can bring it to the buffing wheel. I used the Dremel tool first, in all of the corners, and hard to reach spots. The big areas, I did with the bench polisher. I use stainless compound.

How much for just the tires?

Man, you guys are really pouring salt all over my wounds, every time this gets bumped. lol

Me personally, I don't believe that cranking compression has anything to do with fuel requirements. Alot of people on here do. It's just a tool for figuring out when you need to do your topend. I go by compression ratios, and timing.

Anywhere between 130-200. It all depends on ^^^^^^^^^^In other words, tell us exactly what you got, and your elevation.

Just make sure they are close to the same numbers, on both sides. If there's a significant difference, something's wrong. The exact number that you get is going to depend on several things. Elevation, porting, dome size, etc.

Damn, I JUST threw away all of my brackets that I ground off the frame. But, I think you're talking about the one that's made onto the rear grab bar. It's not welded to the frame.

Depends on porting, elevation, timing, and a few other things to be able to point you in the right direction. I would say 29cc domes would be safe for pump gas. 27's might need somewhere around 104 octane, and 25's need 110 octane.

Bore x Bore x Stroke x 2 x .0007854 69x69x54x2x.0007854=403.8432552

I believe it's Official_Style that sells HID kits. Pretty cheap, I might add.

With my 4mil, I had 18cc domes and it made 185psi. That's at sea level. It was trail ported, with 35mm carbs.

Muratic Acid. You can get it at a local pool supply. Mix it with water. Start with about 1 cup of acid to 1 gallon of water. If that doesn't work, make the mix a little bit stronger. Be careful, because when it's working, it bubbles heavily. Try not to get it on your chrome. Not sure if it will eat it or not. Be careful, because it makes the metal hot. *WEAR A RESPIRATOR AND RUBBER GLOVES*

Wow. Thread hi-jack, if I ever seen one. Clear your cookies. This has been brought up about 30 times in the last week.

I don't think there's been a meeting place set. We'll work on that ASAP. Anyone that doesn't know, it's June 19-21, at Coal Hill, in Treverton, PA. Anyone that's going, let me know, so I can put your name on the list of people that's definitely going. Thanks.

Same here. I use it because of the low viscosity. It really made a huge difference shifting. I used to use Motul. I just did a complete rebuild, and my transmission looked like brand new. I change the fluid about every 10-12 hours. Whatever you use, make sure it's made for wet clutches. Motor oil is not made for wet clutches.

There is actually a company that made 5mil cranks. I don't think they make them anymore, or at least they're not as popular. My question is, why go with a 5mil? With a 4mil, you don't have to trench the cases. Anything bigger, you do. I think you'll be way happier with the 4mil, since you don't need to do the extra work, and spend the extra money. Plus, the power difference is probably not even going to be noticable on the seat.

They're probably opening slowly, making the power come on smoothly, instead of the typical 2-stroke hit. I would imagine if they were not opening, it would be like not even having them at all. I'm pretty sure pabansheematt has tinkered with his some. Talk to him about how to adjust them.

What the hell does "Stage 3 Jets" consist of? What size are they? Sounds like it's WAY too rich.