someone82

I just finally got rid of my yfz450 arms because it has one major flaw when installing them on the banshee frame. Too much positive caster (22* to be exact!!!). This creates very stiff slow steering (and quick return to center). Also you'll wear out ball joints faster due to the miss-alignment in relation to the spindles. Stock is 9* and recommend rec riding is 3* to 5* of positive caster if I recall correctly. While this upgrade is fine for rec. riding, don't try racing with it. Save your money and get some arms designed for the banshee.

Wow that made my eyes hurt. Anyway I've always broke my motors in by running through 3 heat cycles and then I re-torque everything in between heat cycles. Then I ride it like a stole it hasn’t failed me once.

I've used both Permatex Black and Permatex motoseal on the reed cages before with no leaks before (no gaskets). Just be sure you let it cure before overnight before you run the motor.

I recall hearing in the past that FMF Powercore silencer's fit, but don't quote me on it.

Ice.... or Water Wetter with h2o

For rims, I've honestly bought them all off e-bay, I would check out Alfie, as he is a site sponser and I think he can get rims. If your just trying out flat track, then just get one of the front and rear lowering kit from I think cjr performance. You can also flip the front wheels to get you by and get some added width. Remeber tho, flipping the front wheels brings the center of the tire out over the wheel hub and it will slow down weight transfer to the opposite corner. Also for my riding style I like the rear to narrow then the front, so I ca turn the bike easier. This is so I can diamond the corners (make the track 4 strait aways), and loose less corner speed through the apex. If you are going to be serious, save up for arms, get shocks tuned for flat track use (length, valving, and spring rates), and an extended adjustable axle. I tried the r6 shocks, and they were just way too stiff and couldn't transfer weight properly.

When you side gap them, do you run the same gap as a standard plug? Also do you notice any difference in overall performance? I've ran side gap plugs in my rotory motors and noticed a difference, but that's it.

What do you run for air pressure?

No the 59" tires are fine, you'll have no clearence problems at all. I would recommend running beadlock to reduce the chance of spinning a bead but you can run them on regular rims. Stay away from the dura tires they are a very hard compound and don't grip worth poop. Stick with hoosiers (RD12 or RD15) or amercian racers (SD-23) if your running the oval. What kind of surface is the track? Clay, dirt, etc...

Hoosier has rear tires on clearence: https://www.hoosiertire.com/discontinuedtires.htm Go down to Left Rear Micro Sprint Tires, and you can get a killer deal!

Eh you were right it's a Trophy class only, the flat track bikes get payout David Knight maybe? I don't know if you know him but Mike Lewis should be out there and he is Fast. I know he has done allot of racing up north (trx250r w/raptor plastics, esr motor etc... etc..)

There is payout for the top 3 finishers in the main, I forget what it is tho, I'll have to look into it. On a side note, who were you talking to about it?

Here are a couple of shots, nothing too exciting because I was just putting through camp-ground:

Next race is coming up, June 12th... Pre entry form is posted: http://www.venturaraceway.com/pdf/Forms/2010%20%206-12%20Motorcycle%20Entry%20Form.pdf Hope to see some of you there, as I was the lone 2-stroke there last time. Hopefully I don't get a flat tire again either... sigh

2001 raptor 660 rear shock will fit, i know because I have one mounted up and it's just fine and dandy. Now the swing arm is another question.

Those last two are SICK! I would take the first one on a white shirt and the second one on a black shirt. Badass work dude, keep it up!

Pull the clutch cover off and make sure there is nothing causing the kick starter to bind up before you go rebuilding the motor.

Cool man, good luck but two things; one I didn't like their gasket set as their base gaskets were rather thick (I don't remeber their spec) as it would have hurt my port timing and squish as well, so I just stuck with the weisco gaskets. Two I don't know if this build is your first or not but make sure you take the pistons and cylinders to someone that has experance with boring 2 stroke motors (and not just weed-eaters) and make sure to ask if they will chamfer the ports for you. If not just send them off to F.A.S.T. and Jeff will take care of ya. Yeah your right tuning is a huge factor in the relibility of the motor/pistons as well. That is interesting about the blaster pistons tho, something I'll keep in mind for my next motor. I can only imagine what you've seen working at a dealership...

Also if bike bandit doesn't have a part in stock it seems to take forever to get. I had to wait two weeks once for a single gasket because they didn't have it stock. If they did have it in stock I usally got it next day.

My buddy has them on his ltr. They work good in the hard pack, but if you get into loose stuff, they lack forward bite.

M&H pistons are forged Vito's Pistons are forged except for their Cast oem style replacement pistons.

I totally agree with you on this point. Did I notice a power increse due to the pistons. No Did I have a noticeable increase of power due to my porting, tuning, etc... yes but I would never put it on the pistons alone. I had a wiseco piston sitting around and I compared them to the M&H pistons when I built the motor (dome, windows diamentions etc..) and they were basiclly all the same. One plus the guy that ran "turbo1racing" when I bought the pistons did awnser all my questions up front with no delay. Here is the deal tho, as you know if you have a piston faliure it is most likely due to improper clearences, lack of chamfering ports, poor tuning, cold seizing the motor, sloppy rods, etc... etc... If you have your machine work and etc. done right the first time, you really shouldn't have any type of faliure. Basicly a lack of attention to details casues failures, and sadly it happens way to often in the aftermarket/racing world and so people go an blame the part that has the most damage instead of really looking into the cause.

I know I'm probably the only one running them, but I've had them for about two years racing flat track/trail riding and haven't had any issues with them at all. Rings are still sealing (165 in each hole, same since I built the motor). I only bought them at that time because money was tight and I chanced it and now I'm happy with my choice. I tore the top end down at the beginning of the year and everything was still in spec.

We've tried a simalar product in sprint car's before with little sucess. Due to the high rate of speed the tire is spinning, quick deceleration, and sliding it would end up causing worse vibrations. Just have them balanced with regular sticky weights. But you might want to make sure your axle is true and your wheels are not bent in anyway before you go to this extreme.

Welcome to the never ending addiction... Where abouts in California or you from?