someone82

Here check out this post, it'll help you on getting you carbs sync'd up: Carb Sync

I hope your joking right?

I don't have a picture, but the tread pattern is hooiser's standard small crossblock. I've tracked it down to a micro sprint tire, so I've talked to a couple of my buddies who race micros, but all they can remeber is running m-06. I will stick a duro gauge on it tonight and see how it compares to the current d10, d20, etc...

I just picked up a set of bead-locks, and one of them came with a brand new hoosier 59/10-10 M04 mounted up (it's soft but I haven't taken a durometer gauge to it yet). I can't find anything on hoosier's website about this tire, nor does anybody seem to recognize this compound code. Does anyone here know it and if so is there a equivalent compound in which hoosier carries today? thanks, matt

I'm look for a sway bar setup. Let me know what you have.

How much for the plastics?

I just finished registering a 91 frame I picked up, and the dmv gave me blue and green OHV tag, not the traditional all green tag. Can anyone from cali shed some light on what the blue/green tag means? At least it's not a red tag. Matt

Do you still have the Acid Racing -2 swinger?

Damn you beat me to the question I was going to ask... Either way that sounds like a smoking deal you got on that shee!

Replace that roller, it affect how the chain will tension up. Wait is the top roller or the bottom? The top roller keeps the chain from coming up when the rear suspension is compressed and the bottom roller put tension on the chain going to carrier to reduce the chance of the chain skipping. If the bottom roller is chewed up replace it and you will notice a difference on how the chain will tighten up. Also with the smaller sprocket it will require more adjustment if you don't shorten the chain accordently, but normally you can saftly go up a tooth or down and be safe with the same lenght of chain. I switch from a 13 to 14 all the time depended on my rear tire size and what type of riding I'm doing. Like I said before new chains will slack up after a couple of rides, and double check that you carrier bolts and adjusters are still tight. If your still fighting the chain being loose after all this, you might just have to take a link out.

you have a pm

1st, was the upper roller damaged when you installed the new chain? 2nd, new chains do stretch. 3rd, do you check your chain slack with the rear suspension loaded or unloaded?

Frame is still Available, make me an offer.

Well I know shipping a frame is usally around $150usd in state so I can't say how much it might be to ship to canada i can look into tho. No I don't have the stock arms any more but as far as I know all you need are the uppers, your lowers and spindles work if I recall corectly and no you arn't far at all.

bumpity bump

Here I have a 96 Frame for sale, it is non titled, but I can provide a bill of sale if wanted(the vin is clean per CHP). It's powder-coated and as far as I can tell it's strait. I'm asking $90 and would prefer local pickup because it is rather pricey to ship one.

Split the cases, better safe then sorry. You could wash them out all you can but you can never be 100% that you got everything out of the bearings.

Looking for a stock stroke crank, preferably trued and welded with good bearings. let me know what you have.

You are correct, The carb that whitbread is selling is a standard pwk.

Do you have any pictures of case and crank? If so e-mail them to [email protected]. How much would shipping be to 93001? Thanks, Matt Oh BTW I have a '96 A-arm frame with no title...

Here is the contents of his post: The Holyman kicker fix. Here's what you do... You go to the hardware store {Sears, Ace etc.} and buy... 1- .25" steel ball bearing 1- M6x40 allen head screw {I'll give instructions on how to find the right one later} 1- #8 spring 1- #2 spring and 1- #86 spring A- Take the kicker off the bike and clamp it in the vice. B- Remove the kicker lever. If the screw is stripped, drill a 3/16 hole into the OTHER end of the screw not into the head of the screw. You should be able to use a screw driver or a chisel and work the screw loose now. C- Be careful to save the stock spring that is behind the ball. {if it's still there} D- Use a Dremel tool to open up the hole in the post big enough to fit the .25" ball into it. DO NOT use force to fit the ball into the hole, you'll NEVER get it out. E- smear some grease into the hole and then put in the original spring {or one of the springs listed above. You will need to cut it down if you use one of the hardware store springs} F- smear more grease onto the post that the lever slips on to. G- Take the cone shaped spring and cut it in half and put it on top of the post with the small end facing up. Make sure the spring isn't so wide that it is wider than the post. If it is, cut it down some more or bend in the part that sticks out. H- Slide the kick lever onto the post and screw in the allen screw to hold it on. ******** Here's where you need to know how to get the right allen screw. *********** When you go to the hardware store, take the kicker with you. You want to buy an allen screw that has a shank {the unthreaded part} that is long enough so that NO threads are in the groove area of the post. To find this out, thread in the screw into the kick lever all the way. Then look into the hole in the bottom of the lever and see if there are any threads visible in the hole. If not, then you have the right one. I- After the kicker is completely assembled, make sure it rotates smoothly. Then cut off the rest of the allen bolt that's sticking out and re-install the kicker. It should last a lifetime. Some guys will re-install an O ring. Direct Link: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...lyman+kickstart

Oak View/Ventura here.

Are the tires mounted on stock Rims or aftermarket?

Works recommend 250psi, no less for their small body shocks (no remote rezzie).

Great Seller, he gave me a great deal and I got my goodies Fast!