someone82

Higher octane gas (110 vs 91) burns at a slower rate reducing the chance of pre ignition (turbalance) in the combustion chamber. Traditionally used in high compression motors. There is no increase in horsepower, it's a common myth. In fact years ago I ran a basic chevy 350 on a water brake dyno testing the performance differences in running different octane fuels (while keeping a static igntion timing), It made the most power running low octane gas.

27 from Ventura, California

I forgot.... here:

Ok... I'll give it one more go around and then they are going to ebay

pm sent

bumpity

anplumbing.com I've been dealing with them for years

Here I have a Stainless rear brake line for a -2 swinger, comes with an to metric adaptors and is 22" long fitting to fitting, asking $20 + the ride: Here is a Mod Quad, black parking brake block off plate, asking $8 + the ride:

a stock length round-house swinger... question is what are you going to do with it

Everything said above and also is the steering stem is bent it can cause the binding your feeling. Undo the bolts holding the upper steering stem clamp to the frame, if the steering frees up when that is loose, you could have a bent stem.

http://www.carbparts.com/ oh here is a place closer to you: http://www.mikunioz.com/

Right on, I'll get you a picture later today

You could be right, do a leak-down test on the motor and take the radiator cap off. If you see bubbles and your motor fails the leak down test; you might have a blown head gasket or one of the plugs at the bottom of the cylinder failed along with the base gasket. Or I've seen this happen in cars, your radiator hoses might be failing.

Great guy to deal with and he stands behind his product, I recommend him as a seller.

First, what was your reasoning on welding a heim bung in on the lower a-arm, the ball joints are replaceable on the yfz arms. Second, why did you choose a 3/8" standard heim? They should only be used on steering linkages, brake/clutch linkages, and sway bar links. They don't have the strength to hold up in the way you have intended it too. Cut that sucker out and install some 5/8" chromolly heims before you hurt yourself.

Ok to start off before anyone jumps to conclusions on carb tuning I'm running a graydon 2 into 1 with a single Keihin Pwk 39. Jetting: 45, 190, EEJ 2nd clip down. +5 Timing. C12/91oct 50/50mix 40:1 Blendzall. Ported (unknown type but it runs hard) After my race this weekend I went to maintenance the motor I noticed my left plug was slightly blackened and my right plug was perfect. So I ran a compression test (L - 157 R - 160) and ran a leak down and both were perfect. The motor runs strong, the left cylinder is hitting all the time from what I can tell. Idles smooth, no excessive smoking. I haven't lost any coolent either. Plugs are two race old br8es (about 40 laps TT racing), I'm running non-resistor caps. I haven't checked the reeds yet, any other idea's? Thanks, Matt

This weekend I somehow bent one (Never hit anything, guess I was running too hard lol) of my sway bar arms on my lonestar sway bar. I contacted Lonestar but they do not make or sell any sway bar parts anymore. Does anyone have a extra set they would be willing to sell? Thanks, Matt

Another win last weekend, That shirt is bring us some good luck.

Could be jetting or low compression, see if the guy will let you compression test it before buying it.

I had the same problem one time and after a day at camp trying to find the problem it ended up being a loose ground coming from the cdi.

I think your safe on this one as the yfz conversion has been pretty much beaten down lately. But Drewski said it best if your on a tight budget it's ok to get you by but if you pay more then $200, your just wasting your money. I tried it because money was tight at the time, it was fine for your basic trail riding, but as soon I tried racing with it I decided it was time to throw it in the trash.

Well when I did mine, I spent about $150 for everything (minus brakes and months of hunting for the best deal). After installing everything I made about $85 back from the factory parts. So I lost $65 in a crappy front end.

It looks like the spring that goes around the inner lip on the crank seal, to put pressure on the seal against the crank.

I'll add that I'm happy with my Graydon 2 into 1, with a single pwk 39 (bored to 41). Runs as strong as my pwk 28's did (if not stronger), with less the hassle.