someone82

Here is my '05 Sierra, supercharged, plus a whole bunch of goodies...

Good Deal man, whatever you do don't run those top arm ball joints out so far tho, you want as much thread in the arm bung as possible. Just measure you current arms (center of mounts to ball joint center) and then measure the new ones and you'll find out your difference.

I'll do that then, thanks for the advise!

Just thought I would post an update, I decided to try one more thing before I went out and spent the money on a lockup. I had a feeling that my clutch lever didn't have enough pull on it. It was a msr ez-pull lever that had seen better days so I picked up a asv ez-pull lever. Well the asv lever/purch solved the problem I now have a nice full pull and the pressure plate fully disengages from the clutch plates nice and even with 3 hd springs and 3 stock springs.

As long as the axle is strait and the hub splines and the lock nut threads are in good shape, it sounds like it a good deal. I like using the adjustable axle because I can move the wheels in and out according to track conditions.

Those look like +2 (wider per side)/+1(forward) arms and if they are in good condition (ball joints and heims) that is a decent price for them. I'm running some custom +3/+1 arms (with 4/1 offset front wheels) and my width varies from 50" to 51" wide depending on my static ride heigth. The higher the nose of the quad the more the suspenion droops which narrows the front end just slightly. Aligment, front wheel width/offset and tire width will affect your overall width as-well. You'll be fine with those and if I recall correctly 45" is or close to factory width.

Are you interested in splitting the plastics up because I just need the rears... I'm just a few hours away from you too

I'm starting to think that is what I'm going to do.

Yes I'm offsetting them (I wish I was being stupid and putting them in wrong). I repeated the whole adjustment process again step by step, still with no success, the pressure plate won't lift off even with any or all HD springs in.

Glad to know I'm not the only one experiencing this... See I ride flat track/tt so I need to be able to slip my clutch and I'm under the impression with a lockout you really can't. true or false?

Clutch cable is good it's only one race season old (4 flat track races). The arrow and the actuator arm do line up, but I did forget about adjusting it with the slack taken out of cable. I will try this. This is the first time in all the engines that I've built that I've actually have paid attention to how much the pressure plate moves. With the stock springs in I have an even 1/8" between the pressure plate and the clutch plates all the way around, with the HD springs it's quite uneven, about 1/8" on half the plate and 1/16" or less on the other half (yes I have the hd springs in every other position). Any idea how much clearance it should have? With my new porting I don't think all stock springs will cut it, hell I don't even mind running all HD springs).

Ok so I got my new engine together, yet for the life of me I can't get the clutch working right. Here's the deal when I 3 HD springs in and 3 Factory springs in the pressure plate won't lift off even (crooked) when the clutch lever is pulled in. When I have 6 HD springs in, it still won't lift off even, but when I have 6 factory springs in the pressure plate lifts off nice and even off of the clutch plates. I've tried two different sets of both factory and HD springs with the same results. The spring bolts are torqued properly and no matter how much I adjust the clutch I get the same result. Has anyone had this problem before, or know what is going on?

Discovered mine is bent the other-day, so I'm looking for another one, roundhouse or not I'll take either carrier style for now. Thanks, Matt

Could you send some picture to [email protected]? thanks

When I first got my banshee I discovered that the pin didn't seat right on the drive gear and it rounded out the gear. It would have enough friction to spin at idle but once the motor would spin up it would stop pumping. Something to think about.

Here is mine, it mounts up just like the third link you posted. Steering Stem Mount: Front Brace Mount: Front Brace Mount from another angle: Over head View: Hope these pictures help, I have the bike standing up in the shed right now so these are the best angles I could get.

Give me a little bit and I'll post up a picture

Looking for a set of rear plastics, color doesn't matter but I don't want race cut. Thanks

Looking for a set of Wiesco 64.75 Pro lites. Thanks, Matt

Is that $160 Shipped?

On Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Banshee-Ported-Cylinders-Jugs-65mm-/140478478565?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b52b78e5

Bump, someone must want these before I put them on fleabay this weekend.

I haven't heard anything from Farva1 (pm's or here on my post), so I'm going to put these back up on the market. Basically they will cost $15 to ship anywhere in the main land states, and they will need at least a bore to the next size. I use paypal for payment.

They are sold pending payment

Sold to Farva1 pending payment