DallasGDub

If I had to guess, the guy selling it thinks it is a 400cc maybe b/c it is bored .50 over? Ask him what he means by 400. It is a very common mistake. (bore alone doe snot = CC) Use that as a point to talk him down. How does it run, is it well taken care of, ext.... The Elkas, rims/tires, and A-arms will run you about 1k used. You can add those to any bike and make it look nice.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? FMF Fats w/PC2's 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N w/Proflow 3) Box? Stock air box, no lid. 4) What is your elevation? Just above sea level. North TX. 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 50 6) What size main jets are you using? 155 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 70-85 8) Do you have a port job? HJR Full Dune port 9) What kind of carbs? Keihin PWK 10) What size carbs? 28mm

It was pretty clear he said to pm him for pics so he could email it. I don't think post should dictate who sells what, however, membership longevity should be a factor.

Yeah, his did the EXACT same thing. One trip around the block, and the lever went limp. We also noticed it jumped really bad when putting it in gear before hand. But it had slack and play so it was wierd. The same ball works, unless it is damaged. The Cascade pancake is the easiest to adjust IMO. That can be tricky to. Do a search on pancake, you will see some good post. You will need a clutch cover gasket. We also replaced the water pump seal and bearing, the o-ring on the water tube, and added a modded shift star. Just b/c we had the cover off. It is not necessary.

You can take off the clutch cover, and then pressure plate and check it. In the middle of your clutch basket behind the plate, you will see the adjuster. The rod and ball set behind this. Here is where you will need to troubleshoot. 1, Make sure the bolt just did not back off. 2, Pull it out, and then use a magnet to pull the ball and rod out. 3, It can weld 3 ways. The ball and rod comes out welded to the adjuster (the lucky way). The ball comes out, but the rod wont (b/c it is mushroomed on the other end). Or you can not get shit to come out (the ball is stuck to the rod, and the rod is stuck inside). Lets hope that they all come out. Easy fixed, just replace it all and add a pancake bearing. If not, you have to flip the motor, split the case, lift the other end of the clutch shaft up (I dont know the tech name of this shaft), pull the mushroomed rod out the other end. PICS... What you hope to find, all welded together and pulls out. (pics of the one I fixed) What you don't want to find, (pics from LS1Inferno). Links.... Good post to read http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...pancake+bearing

I think you are talking about the Linkage kit. Thats the kit that you use in the swingarm dogbone where the rear shock connects.

That all depends on your compression.

Nice........ thats a huge ass clover in your yard.... :ninja:

I know on my Keihin's, it depends on the temp. Sometimes I get away with pulling one. Other times I have to pull both. They are not fat finger friendly.

Like 420 said. That gap has to be the right for all "lumps" on the flywheel. This can throw you off. While your checking spark, make sure you are getting fuel. I wish I had a dime for every time I forgot to turn my fuel back on. LOL....

Are you gettng any kind of spark? Check make sure you put the stator wires on the back in the right place, and double check your airgap on the pick-up.

Great deal and welcome to HQ. I have a Blaster project I am about to start on.

1-10 (10=hardest), I give it a 4 if you do not use tools that much, and a 1 if your a gear head. So it is pretty easy either way.

x2. Something more than just the regular feedback section.

I have Fatties, Noss head, +4 timing also, (but run 20cc domes, Airbox, FAST clutch, and 28pwk's).... I went with the HJR full dune port......Man.....What a day and night difference. The quad was fast before, but now it is just madness.....Before, I could feel the bike pull and then back off when it peaked out. But it felt like I still had more rev left...I would just shift, and go on........But now, the bike pulls strong all the way thru the rev. The power is very smooth and fluid like in the delivery. It is almost like the banshee wants to get somewhere with or without you on the back....lol....Even with 15/41 gearing, it will easily put me on my ass if I let it. It is a new animal. I am like a kid with a new toy. IMO, it was worth every penny. I do suggest getting a pancake bearing, FAST clutch or one like it, and maybe rebuild the topend while you have it off to make it all fresh and new.

Thats right. They are a PITA. Have to beat it like it stole something. We were upgrading one and it bent the tip with the threads on the end. Sucks b/c he was going to sell it to make up for some of the cost of the upgrade.

Wanna sell, how much? I know Scottie D was looking for a set.

The lip of my pancake (non-cascade) sticks out past the pressure plate. The outside nut tightens down to this. It all just kinda floats between the pressure plate and the basket. Your PART 1, does not seem to be long enough to stick out. The nut is tightening against the plate itself. The outside lip of mine:

x2, Melting around the tip and the insulator could be detonation.

Some use 1 set on the cyl side. I recommend a set on each side. But yes, it needs a at least 1 between the cyl and the reed. It is plastic to metal. Hard to get a air tight seal. I forgot, you also have to trim the stock intake boots back to fit. They have a lip on it that has to be trimmed down so it sits flat against the reed. You can search and see what I mean. I just used a razor.

Not hard at all. Hardest part is getting everything out of the way. Be careful not to drop anything in the intake. Make sure all the surface areas and parts are clean. Do not drop the reed (made that mistake myself...doe..) Always good to get new gaskets. 1 on each side of the reed, 4 all together. No sealent needed. Just gasket.

That's really all I know. I was just posting it up and passing it along.

http://forums.everything2stroke.com/ugly/3...quads-help.html Stolen Saturday May 2nd, 2 quads. 98 Warrior & 88 Banshee at 9:45 am. If anyone hears or sees anything please email at [email protected]

dundun dun dun....who shot JR?

I would say that besides installing a pancake bearing, you can also put in a new ball and rod as well. Just to play it safe. I know RagunCajon put in the pancake bearing, but the ball and rod had imperfections. It ended up welding anyways. Here is a pics of what swrbansheeboy is talking about. (Pics from LS1Inferno from when he helped me)