DallasGDub

I have seen a few Passion built motors run and they seem to do great. Never seen the work up close, or know anyone personally. I got my jugs back from Kevin @ HJR in about 2 weeks. Bore, hone and full dune port. That was about 2 months ago. He still helps me with questions I have. He even helped me through out all of last year prior to even buying anything. I get my parts from Jeff. Right after I hang up the phone they appear on my door step like magic. Great guy, never had any issues. Even if something was wrong, he fixed what ever the problem was. Hard to judge negative feed back sometimes. Pissed off people can exaggerate to get satisfaction. I try to judge more on positive feed back. What good things do people say about a particular builder or shop ext....If they go out of their way to say something good, normally more truth behind it.

This is very true. So many small things can cause the problems your having.

Now I am no expert of the wood....LOL...but I would think it needs some type of sealer, treatment, or something to keep it from soaking up water. It does not look fatkid friendly. I will take my chances with a tube and some arm floats.

Yeah, search for boost bottle and you will see what I mean. I had one on my old set up and everything that people said would go wrong, did go wrong. I just got lucky before it made a real problem. A good bore is one thing, but a hone is another. It is always good to do both when you get new pistons so your all new and fresh. But some get away with just a hone and new rings. A hone is good b/c you need a good cross hatch on the cyl walls so the new rings can seat nice. If the cyl walls were smooth and shiny, the new rings will not seal good. To test the compression: Test one cyl at a time. However, take out both plugs. Screw the tester in where the plug goes. Try to make it so you can see the gauge. While holding the throttle wide open, kick it over repeatedly. Keep kicking until the needle stops moving. This will tell you your PSI in each cyl. They should be close in #'s, 115-135 is good, 110 or lower is not so good. Now....even if you have to buy a tester, and come to find out your compression is fine, this is still a very useful tool to have. You will use often. lol...

NP man. Sucks to answer a question with a question, but details help. Your would be better off to start making a check list on issues as they all check out so you can trouble shoot what's up. I would start with compression b/c that is very basic and easy. It will keep you from chasing your tail. Good to mark it off the list of basic needs and move on to the next problem. You said you only changed the rings and pistons. This can effect compression if you did not get a hone and needed it. (also means starting will be an issue). Now as far as jetting, You said you added your K&N, boost bottle and new reeds, that changed your air/fuel ratio. Do you use the box lid and snorkel? ***side note.....go back to stock cross over tube and get rid of that boost bottle.*** For the lights, this could all be related to your starting issue. Hard to say right now. thats why it is good to start with the easy checks. I am sure others will start chiming in with suggestions. Better to get one issue out of the way at a time. Could also be as simple as a bad light switch or ground.

What was the PSI on each cyl after you tested it? 110 or lower is no good. Do you have the Tors? Is is stock pipes? What jets do you have now? Or did you leave it stock after the K&N was added? Sounds like a combo of problems, jetting being 1 and compression being the other. Any time you change air/fuel ratio, you will need to jet it.

Good safe start would be to check your compression. You might need a bore and hone. Spark, gas, and compression are the main things you need to start. Sounds like you covered the rest.

I know the banshee calp fits to a blaster. It has a 2 sets of holes in it for where the mounts go. Don't know about the other way around.

The idea is to allow enough room for lever free play, clutch perch adjustment, and full clutch disengagement. I was just over 1/4" past the arrows towards the flywheel when I got it set.

I only use Yahoo mail and it works with You Tube just fine. Not sure whats up with yours.

I foudn this on here, saved it to my Banshee docs. The Holyman kicker fix. Here's what you do... You go to the hardware store {Sears, Ace etc.} and buy... 1- .25" steel ball bearing 1- M6x40 allen head screw {I'll give instructions on how to find the right one later} 1- #8 spring 1- #2 spring and 1- #86 spring A- Take the kicker off the bike and clamp it in the vice. B- Remove the kicker lever. If the screw is stripped, drill a 3/16 hole into the OTHER end of the screw not into the head of the screw. You should be able to use a screw driver or a chisel and work the screw loose now. C- Be careful to save the stock spring that is behind the ball. {if it's still there} D- Use a Dremel tool to open up the hole in the post big enough to fit the .25" ball into it. DO NOT use force to fit the ball into the hole, you'll NEVER get it out. E- smear some grease into the hole and then put in the original spring {or one of the springs listed above. You will need to cut it down if you use one of the hardware store springs} F- smear more grease onto the post that the lever slips on to. G- Take the cone shaped spring and cut it in half and put it on top of the post with the small end facing up. Make sure the spring isn't so wide that it is wider than the post. If it is, cut it down some more or bend in the part that sticks out. H- Slide the kick lever onto the post and screw in the allen screw to hold it on. ******** Here's where you need to know how to get the right allen screw. *********** When you go to the hardware store, take the kicker with you. You want to buy an allen screw that has a shank {the unthreaded part} that is long enough so that NO threads are in the groove area of the post. To find this out, thread in the screw into the kick lever all the way. Then look into the hole in the bottom of the lever and see if there are any threads visible in the hole. If not, then you have the right one. I- After the kicker is completely assembled, make sure it rotates smoothly. Then cut off the rest of the allen bolt that's sticking out and re-install the kicker. It should last a lifetime. Some guys will re-install an O ring.

Great deal for someone.

I have the SE hi-bend's and they are nice and sturdy. Have not had any issues. The black finish is not so great. Scratches pretty easy.

Your right, not his. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=114133&hl= :shrug:

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95229

You know, I am not sure who, but a few people on here had this same problem. Try searching for it in the repairs and mods. I remember seeing and reading about it in a few threads. Welcome to HQ. Here is one of the threads about the flywheel being the issue. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=reverse

Thanks man. Makes since. I thought it was an option b/c when I got my bike it, they did not have any and it was fine for over a year. I have now upgraded carbs to PWK, but I gave my old carbs to a friend and did not want to mess his shit up. We are putting the idle screw in to make it work properly as soon as they get in here. He already ordered a set. Did not mean to jack your thread 907.

Thats a great deal....

Welcome to HQ. Like Black Sunshine said, most people take the key off, or relocate it. It works just like the kill switch, only it is removable. No starting function.

I am following this thread for advise, can you elaborate on the pros and cons of not taping into the carbs and just using the cable?

I think it all depends on the kind of work you do and the skill you got. People pay good money for a nice paint job. I have paid pleanty for paint (on cars). It all comes down to the rep they had and the past work they have done before chosing the right person to use. For a regular everyday bike, one color, flat rate of $75, and about $100 round trip shipping.......that is a hard sell. It is much more cost effective to do it myself. It might not win any shows, but my bike will be a different color for under 30 bucks.

Also make sure the carb slides are both working good.

Porting will not help you if you need a topend rebuild. It is just good to get porting done while your getting the topend done to save you time and money. To send off your jugs to get rebuilt, it is about 300 plus about 25 shipping (thats a bore, hone, pistons, rings, gasket, ext...). Porting will cost you extra on top of that.

This shit gives me the stomach bubbles. I fear things like this. I know what you mean by your hands shaking as you type it out. Sorry man.

One of the main reasons I can't sell my old plastic. Shipping cost as much as I want for it.