gregrob

That's not the correct number. Here is the correct contact info per WCR WCR, Inc 605 E. Hoffman St. Lake Alfred, Fl. 33850 E-mail: [email protected] 10am-6pm M-F New # 863-956-4411 Effective 1/21/09

stock stroke? 4mil? Ported? trail, dune, drag? What fuel do you run? What elevation? How much compression do you want? Need more info.

Make the lines longer, reroute and/or tie away from the pipes with zip ties. I run mine through the middle of the intake xover tube and zip tie them. and I'm sure I have less clearance with shearers than you do with pro circuits.

X2 lmao

No, they dont all come w/ 115 rods. You can get a 4mil with either 110 or 115. and other, larger strokes have different rod length options.

I might have it ported by Lynn, not put together. I thought 75mm was the biggest commercially available small block as well. Mine is a 71mm.

I saw it.

Not sure mark. Any opinions you have on the porting are welcome. I thought about sending it to Lynn to be ported. Gonna need some case work as well. The other top case wasn't too healthy.

I would call Kevin Herr at HJR 760-815-1316 He did my cylinders and sold me the stuff to build my motor cheaper than that. Of course I already had a cool head and carbs, etc. My motor runs extremely well and has been FUN. It's an aggressive dune port and is a blast on the dunes. Can wheelie anywhere I want in 3rd with my +4 swinger. Enough power for whatever I may encounted and a broad power band, not peaky. Anyway, he does awesome work. It's good to stick with a reputable builder then you can count on good results.

Trades?

You need to pull the stator cover and see if the flywheel is tight. I've heard that noise before and it sounds exactly like a flywheel loose. Goes away when revving too. I would raise ABSOLUTE F'N HELL until they fixed it. Something is not right. You need to call corporate if the dealer won't help you

I have some stock front shocks for you. Make me an offer

Was that HP number on gas, methanol, or other? What pipes did you have on it

B U M P

**EDIT: THESE ARE 8 PADDLE HAULERS, NOT 10** Trade for 21 x 12 x 8 6 or 7 paddle haulers or extremes Great shape, come mounted on Douglas blue label wheels. These are practically brand new. I would need wheels or boot with your tires. Thanks, Greg

Listen to this man^^^ He built my play motor and it rips hard... Need to call and get a set of methanol domes Kev. Got shearers and meth on that thing now and it hauls ass...

2001 R6 engine runs great. This is in a wrecked bike and will come with everything you need to put it in whatever you want. wiring harness, TPS sensors, Carbs, air box, ignition, everything... You can have the frame too for the right deal or I will keep and part out. Could easily be fixed back into a running bike would have to file for salvage title. Willing to trade for a complete, running, banshee engine. Preferably 4mil setup. Will also consider trades for a complete running banshee. Thanks, Greg

Sorry dude, I was uhhh, feeling good last night I guess. +4 Will help your powerband in the low rpms the most, and mid second, and wont make a whole lot of difference on the top end. If you have a lot of compression and or timing, it can have a negative effect on the top end power, but makes it even stronger out of the hole. But just doing +4 you will see a nice gain from the bottom up, without noticing any loss on the top end. My point was to just do it, and if you don't like it, put it back.... I ran +5 on my stock stroke and loved it. The plates are only 35 bucks and its pretty easy to change, play around and see what you like. I wouldn't go over +5 though, depending on your compression and what fuel you're running, etc. Install the timing plate and set to desired advance, and impact the flywheel nut back on but DONT put any blue threadlocker. When you are sure you're happy, remove the flywheel nut and use some BLUE threadlocker, and impact back on and call it good. My .02

"give more mid punch", but i don't want o loose "torque back-up", or have my mid-top to overwhelm the low-end. if it does, what can i do to get it back? OMFG DUDE, ROFLMMFAO AAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA I'M DYING HERE BWAHAHAHAHAH. Just try it and see what happens. Simple

http://farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=34 That is the FAST clutch everyone is talking about... there's your link. You can put something like this together with FZR1000 fibers and barnett steels. GOOGLE

I would get a good ported set of stock cylinders. Lot less money and I think you would be happier for your style of riding. I have seen Jared's gorr ported cylinders put a hurtin on several 421 cubs, and it's a ported 4mm stock cyl. Pulls retarded on the top end but still has an awesome mid range for duning. You can just roll into the throttle and it goes. Nothing like a cub powerband which has been stated, is literally like a lightswitch. and that's not just a lightswitch ON the power, but OFF the power as well. I've been riding a cub in the dunes and it just FELL off the pipe, like somebody reached up and hit the kill switch. Just needed to downshift and rap it out some more My HJR ported 4mil duner don't do half bad either... I'm not running a lockup, override, or any of that either. Much cheaper than a full blown cub build...

Thanks man. I saw your other post and would trade you if I thought a +4 would work for me. *Hopefully* though this new twister motor will make enough power that even a +6 might be a little too short. If I can't get rid of it I'll let you know though. Thanks, Greg

bumpit

Pm Sent.