gregrob

What happens when you hit a brick wall with your fist? Where does the energy go?

All the old timers are gonna tell you to search because it's been convered a gazillion fuking million times LOL. A lot of guys on here use TYPE F ATF. (automatic trans fluid) Works good but may need to be changed more often that other stuff. No biggie though it's cheap. A good synthetic 80-90ish wt gear oil will do just fine. As will a 40wt motor oil (has close to the same relative viscosity of 90wt gear oil). I run DELO 400 15-40wt oil in mine. Does great. Same stuff I use in my diesel truck, a lot of motorcycle guys use diesel engine oil and it produces very good UOA results, and is ideal for wet clutch applications because it doesn't contain friction modifiers like regular auto oils can. Just use the search and poke around, you'll find lots of reading. If you want to go out and just buy some good oil that you know will work fine, get bel ray gear saver. HTH

Stroke wins, everytime IMO.

WTF? Where did they go LOL

^^ Good info. For us hight altitude guys you would also need to consider that in the equation. Baro is right around 11 here instead of the standard 14.7. My numbers would be 135 / 11 = 12.28CR Right on the edge of pump gas I guess.

Didn't use hi temp, just got the pipes hot and then sprayed it. Bakes the paint on that way and it will stick. It was dupli-color metallic gray. Found it at walmart. Hate buying cheap walmart crap but this was good stuff. About 5 bucks a can. I can snap a pic of the can this weekend.

Thanks a lot man. I was looking for something different and I didn't want to go with silver as a quad already had WAY too much silver on it to start with. Really generic color to me. So I thought gray would look good then I found this gray metal flake stuff and thought it would be even better. I'm happy with how they turned out. Just hope the paint holds up ok. If not easy enough to spray em every couple of months though.

Painted them with a gray metallic paint. I couldn't find the color I wanted in hi-temp so I got the pipes hot by riding the bike and stood it on its butt to paint them. Baked it on. Turned out pretty good, pics start here: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2338499430083164471uJOFMl

T-5's usually come with silencers.

I heard passions stuff was hard to get jetted and tuned. Have you guys experienced this?

It's safe as long as you don't go through deep water and suck it in the carbs. You also need to make sure your jetting is on. If they put that stuff on without rejetting you are running on borrowed time. Whenever buying a used bike you need to make sure the jetting is on first thing.

I'd say you could ditch the BB and run a piece of rubber hose for your cross over tube. Clamp it onto the intakes.

I painted mine metallic gray and they came out really nice. Ride the bike to warm up the pipes and paint them with regular paint. Bakes it on and your good to go. Couldn't find hi temp in the color I wanted.

Shouldn't have any trouble. I run Maxima Castor 927 @ 40:1

Agreed, however, looking at the mods in his sig before I replied, I didn't think there was much danger of him running the bowls dry. The stock fuel valve will outflow the stock carbs by a lot. With a drag port or bigger cyls, bigger carbs etc there could definitely be a need for a pingle and bigger bowls.

what do you have your timing set at? Nothing wrong with a coolhead if it's set up properly. You need to do a compression check and report back. If it's over 145-150psi pump gas is a no no. IMO. Especially if your throwing any timing at it.

As long as your jetted perfectly, or a little rich you can go 6th forever. I personally wouldn't go against the peg, maybe 3/4 throttle. If your lean it will melt down, if your rich it will probably foul plugs after a while at WOT, but wouldn't hurt the engine. If jetting is spot on, should have no problems at all.

http://modquad.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=cs1-3 It's shaped like the smaller flimsy ones, but trust me when you get this thing in your hands it's huge. Dwarfs the others. They also have the UHMW plastic ones listed on the site

I just got the mod quad case saver. It's a huge big thick piece like the TM plastic one, but it's billet. It's definitely not one of the little flimsy ones that can break right off when the chain hits it. I'd say if the chain hits this mother it's not going ANYWHERE. Very beefy unit, I'm confident it'll do a good job.

I run DELO 15-40 in mine right now, same stuff I put in my truck. A lot of the street bike guys use diesel engine oil in their expensive sport bikes. Produces really good UOA (Used Oil Analysis) results, and does not contain friction modifiers, which makes it ideal for wet-clutch applications. I'll probably throw some good synthetic 80-90wt gear oil in there when I change it next time.

Thanks for all the input guys. Just to clarify, yes I am at very high elevation compared to most. I live at 6,000 ft, and my two sand riding spots are 7,000 and 8,000+ ft. So that definitely plays into the carb choice. Looks like 33's are the ticket. If I found a screamin deal on a set of 32 or 34 Mikuni TM's I'd take them too, but I'm thinkin the 33pwk is right in the middle and from everyone I've talked to they are great carbs. Keep it comin' Greg

I was planning on doing most of the cutting on a grinder, then polishing the rough surface smooth. Ya I know sometimes dremels suck LOL

HOLY NEGATIVE FEEDBACK BATMAN!!!

Thanks, I plan to mad my own shift star. I'll do the shift pro kit as well. Looked for it on cascade's site earlier and couldn't find. Guess I can call them or hit up RJ

Stock carbs?