gregrob

There's nothing to adjust in the non-tors top. They're simply a cap for the carb. You need to drill and tap the for the idle screw to hold the slide open enough to allow the engine to idle. It is a tapered screw that allows you to adjust the slide for each carb up and down. Mine had to go into the left side of the left carb and right side of the right carb. I got the TORS delete kit from Jeff at fast and came with everything.

I'm running +5 and could actually put a little more in it but I don't want to sacrifice top end. I am at 130 psi and high elevation though. I run 91 pump gas as well. It really depends on the compression you're running and what octance fuel. Anything over 130-135 and 93 pump gas I would stick with +4 to prevent detonation. You can always check to see if it is backing out your plugs, that is a sure sign of detonation. If they start loosening up back your timing down until it quits detonating.

Let's make a deal on these guys! Here's my thread in the trader forum. I need em gone! http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91311 Thanks Greg

I have a set of FMF Fatty / Gold Series pipes. They came off my 02 and are in good shape. Also come with opened up stock silencers if you want them. I'm looking for a set of V force 3 reeds, 33-34mm carbs (keihn or mikuni), front shocks, hauler paddles, wiseco piston kit for stock bore. Let me know what ya got and let's make a deal! Thanks, Greg

Yeah, if I get to go home to a family reunion in KY this year I hope to take it and see the difference. I guess I'll buy a big jet kit to take with me LOL. Sure does run good. Can't wait to get the dune port and bigger carbs on it. I rode with a stock stroke cub yesterday, he had bigger carbs and cubs, otherwise same mods as mine and it ran really, really good.

Daj is exactly right! I'm waaaayyy up here in the rockies. (was riding at 7500ft today)

Check the compression. Low compression will make them really tough to start.

Is a lot of fun... We put on my noss head w/ 19cc domes, T-5's, pod filters, tors delete, and timing plate in today. This thing moves! Got a little more jetting to do and she'll be spot on. Thanks to bigred350x for all the help! Greg

Thanks for all your awesome help guys!! I've decided to go with a +2 for now. I think it will fit me the best. You can always go bigger right! Greg

UP

How much for the rear wheels and tires. How much life left in the tires?

It's impossible to answer that question without seeing the damage. If it's not a friction surface it could be ok, but if enough is gouged out it could throw the crank out of balance. I would post pics for a better opinion and call one of the reupatable engine builders and discuss it with them. If your crank hasn't been welded, I'd probably just spring for a 4mil.

Porting.

Weeelllll if the stock impeller grenaded itself, it's definitely not flowing much water and would certainly cause overheating issues.

Well I'm fairly new to this myself but they tell my motor will make 55-60hp when I'm done, and that's at a really high elevation. I'm gonna have the mdos in my sig, basically a bolt on / ported motor with stock bore and stroke. I'd imagine you could get upwards of 75-80hp out of a 4mil / cub cylinder setup and be close to what your price range is, if you already have all the other bolt on stuff, and carbs. A friend in town made 90+ with a 4mil, but it's a pretty extreme setup. Good luck

Just looking for opinions here. Let's say I ride 30% sand 30% trails / woods and 40% open areas, playing, drag racing, etc. In the sand, my favorite thing to do though is hill climb, so I wouldn't mind a little help there, and keeping the front down a little easier on drags would be nice too. Give me an edge over my buddies. What would you guys go with? I don't want to screw up my ability to jump, broad slide corners wide open, do donuts, etc, etc. I'm thinking +2 to maybe just give me a little help on the hill shoots, but keep the bike very usable, or maybe I can do that with a +4 and not really sacrifice anything else? I've talked to Jared about this and he said +4 is the most I should go, just looking for opinions from those who have ran +2, or maybe both. Thanks Greg

These are coming off my 02. They are FMF gold series head pipes into gutted stock silencers. The bike runs very hard with these right now. I just wanted to go a different route. If you're looking to get the stock junk off your bike and open it up for cheap, these are the ones. Great starter set of pipes. $175 OBO + the ride. I can get pics up soon, have to get batteries for the cam. Thanks, Greg

Thanks guys! Lots of good info around here. No methanol for me on this bike! I guess if I build a more hardcore duning machine hill shooter / dragger I would consider it but I want to be able to ride in the woods, on the track, just playin etc. Doesn't sound like it's worth it for me. I'll stick to gasolina for now! Greg

Thanks for the info guys! I'll check out the direct drive units and the pro taper nerf bars.

I know a lot of fairly heavily modded bikes run on meth. What's to keep a bolt-on, ported banshee from benefitting from alky? I know I'd have to buy bigger, alky carbs, but other than that what are all the downsides? It costs less than race gas, burns cleaner, cooler, and makes more power right? Thanks, Greg

I feel like my bike would be more comfortable for me if the foot pegs were 1-2 inches lower. I can feel tension in my legs and when I drop my feet down a little it goes away. Anyway, does anyone sell foot pegs to do this, looks like you could readjust the shifter and brake pedal with no issue. Thanks! Greg

How does changing the timing make the spark stronger or weaker? Advancing or retarding the timing simply makes the spark happen sooner or later in the stroke. A hotter spark would have to come from a higher voltage coil.

There's a little lever on the right handlebar. You will need to push that all the way down. Then release the little handle on the right with the bansh in 1st gear on good traction surface, or 2nd gear on gravel / loose dirt. Then you will need to move the lever on the left side of the motor up through the gears while modulatin the lever on the right, and on the left each time. Repeat this procedure until you are in 6th gear, and the predator becomes the prey. DONT LOOK BACK

Will do, I've talked to them a bit. the search feature SUCKS but I've looked around and decided to probably decided to go with 8 paddle haulers. Thanks!

Jeff at fast has them. The link is in my sig. He just sold me a set for 82.95 2 K&N filters WITH outerwears for each one. I thought it was a hell of a deal.