magz

Looking for some inframe CPI's or T-5's looking for something in equalle shape willing to throw in few hundred dollars for trade for cpis, or square trade for t-5's, these are in awsome condition. pipes are pictures and are very clean ready for shipping since iv had my bike down all winter iv shined them up to almost factory chrome. asking price is 350$ and 375$shipped.

anytime iv ever changed clutch packs out i soak my cluch in oil a minimum of 24 hours in advanced in the same oil ill be using in my bike, usually it coincides with my oil change and i just put the oil i soaked my pack in in the motor when im done, this make sure all the plates are oiled up and ready to go to town after installing. i've never had a problem with any clutches on any of my bikes iv ever owned when done that way. im assuming slipping the clutch would be to run the bike and just slightly pulling the clutch in to a state where its still putting power down to the chain but slipping to remove drive case oil....which you wouldnt need to do if you soaked them for along time prior to installing.

i got nothing for you besides this.... my tecate six will smoke you...

god this thread is making me hard.... not really though, its about the stupidest thing iv ever read...can we make a section of bansheehq that has to be verified for members 21 and up to view only and leave everyone 20 and down to the general offtopic?

:happy: pipes no question.....or port work

head and timing plate can be done individually, +4 will give your bike more low end torque, making it feel faster or stronger on the bottom end, shaving the head will raise the compression and give you bike a overall better performance. both things are relatively cheap. 50 for complete RS plate with new flywheel puller from fast and 20-40 depending on where you take the head to get shaved and youll need a new gasket for it as well.. so youll be around your 100 dollars mark. you will see a increase in power and torque with those mods. both can be done individualy or together. and will be just as reliable as stock.

oh, sorry it was early and my eyes were still adjusting to waking up when i posted.... :ermm:

its safe, just read your motor, if it pings, back the timing off....but as stated in the previouse 100 +4 timing threads +4 is more then safe...check the sticky at the top of the forum....

Blaster06, your still a newb at jetting with your own problems man, dont tell people not to try stuff, you dont know. for his locations and area temps his main jetting is more then likely almost spot on. if anything id say remove the 27.5 pilot, get a 25 and adjust your air screw, and needle position. he's probably just rich on the low end, but you should be able to adjust your needle and air screw to fix any low-in bogs

mine does shake alot...i mean alot...but all my mounts are on solid and tight, no loose threads at all...but hey i dont worry about it cause its runs like a bat out of hell....

if you plan on riding alot of sand go with pods and a timing plate, timing plates like 35 and pods really help get air in the motor. next get a coolhead and some small domes to raise the compression of the motor, next step id say get some good reeds. only other logical step after that is a ported motor. those are the biggest bang for your money, cdi's wont be that noticable if any.

id like to think you get what you pay for...... and ummm...user error when installing jets, you probably got dirt all in side them. yeah thats right...

nothings changed at all....whoever tidos heard it from he should slap the hell out of and tell them to stfu...=]

top end rebuild is generally required when theres a 10psi difference between the two. or 10 psi drop from original psi pressure for optimal use. so id say atleast pull the juggs, take them to a good builder and have him spec them and the pistons, and see if you can scoot away with just a hone and re-ring the pistons, i was able to rering mine after i noticed a loss in compression, i had 140 on each side and then after 3 rides went down to 130 so i took my juggs off and meased my ring end gap and noticed it was way larger then it needed to be but everything else was still perfectly in spec.

pics to [email protected]

fyi for those who asked, my group from tulsa has spots 60-65 reserved from the 16th through the 19th for snake hunt. guess im on the opposite side from where i thought we were...

im not exactly sure what spot it is, i just got the basics yesterday morning, buddy said we got a spot from the 16th through the 19th he said it wasnt the spot directly above LSPS but more by where the cabins are at. ill see if i cant find out more tomorrow...

contact a BansheeHQ approved builder first. then compaire prices. then ask for advice from us again...

i think first you should start out with an introduction of your self, then state what mods you have. State what kind of riding youd like to be doing and then someone nice on this forum might give you advice.

just the ypvs350 with power valve will with little to no fab. seriously though, stop and think of what your asking....

id run the idle a higher my self, with pods and you exhaust id probably be running 310 jets if the air temp you ride in is aroudn 60-80 degrees. and your elevation is btween 0 and 1000 feet. with the needle clip third or second from the bottom, and 1 turn out on air idle. not to contradict marinenyc, i talked to jeff from fast and loney from sandtrax and they both told me generally they never change the idle jets, it can always be adjusted out with the needle and air screw. but hey, whatever works and runs good.

its all groovy with me, ill be in the toy hauler if im not out riding. that and i planned on smelling like a yeti and being all sandy all week anyways if worse came to worse. ganna have to invest in monkey butt powder i guess...

ill be there, our group got a nice spot above LSPS,

how much do you want for your cpis?