WINDYCITYJOHN400

I'm sure the postal sacles don't read in units of know-it-all. Even if air has a weight....I'm sure the weight of criticism over his question will far outweigh it.

Yeah, can we save on the shipping if we don't ship the air? What do we do?...Get the wheel and tire shrink wrapped? "How much does it weigh without air?"...... It'll be a while before you live that one down.

Know why you should never buy a woman a watch?....Cause there's a clock on the damn stove!

"Highway Head" or "Road Head" would be my vote.

Yeah, My wife was riding a 400EX with a 440 big bore kit and a fully tricked out suspension. She wanted MORE POWER! So I started looking at Raptor 700's. (They were a little out of the price range I was looking to be in.) So we got her a Banshee......then got a 60+HP 370 long rod motor for it.....on the last trip to the dunes she got up the nerve to throw a leg over my 90+ hp 472 cheetah .....That's all it took. Now she's wanting the 80hp Serval cub motor and she wants me to re-do her bike in a color of her choosing and get her some shocks set-up just for her weight. Guess what she figured out? Chicks get ALOT of looks when they are riding Banshee's......but they get ALL the looks when they happen to be riding a killer +4 front framed, +10 armed, dune monster with wild paint and plenty of bling! Don't think for a moment that your girl will be happy with your old hand-me-down machines....they like a good HP war just as much as we do. As with everything the ladies do....it also needs to be BLINGIN'. Enjoy your new ride buddy.....but be ready to spend as much on hers as you do on yours....even if she never finds 3rd.

Nope, that stops the fuel from being sucked into the airflow of the carb. It also takes a second for the flow to begin again.(Now what they should have really said was, once you let off on a high speed pass...pull in the clutch.) Whoever said that doesn't understand HOW a carb works. It might make sense if the fuel kept flowing and you were just cutting off air.....but there is this little thing called a needle attached to the slide....(yeah you can see where I'm going with this I'm sure) ...but for those who don't know, when the slide drops, it also drops that needle into the main jet and stops fuel flow. So long debate short....NASCAR motors run WOT for the better part of 3 to 4+ hours. Your banshee, when jetted for it can run WOT for a damn long time too. (If you think it can't because it's a two stroke...then explain the Evinrude outboard boat motors. They are well know for running at WOT for a LONG time.) So just jet for the conditions. (In your case a high speed run at WOT in whatever weather conditions you have.) Make your high speed runs and when you get it good and hot, with the bike in high gear and pulling hard, hit the kill switch and pull in the clutch and coast to a stop. Then pull your plugs and get a reading of what the motors doing at that RPM. Then jet for it. Think bout it this way...most Banshee owners start out with a machine that they ride in tight areas with changing speeds and it runs fine. Problem is...the first time you run across a turf farm - fire road - open field your motor burns down and they think it is because they were at WOT for so long. Nope. It's becasue they weren't jetted right in the first place. (Same with sleds. You don't burn holes in the center of pistons due to lack of oil. That's high speed detonation. Lack of oil takes out rings and scores cylinder walls) Jetting can be a pain in the ass. (that's why everybody gets rid of the factory carbs as soon as they can, because aftermarket carbs are ALOT easier to work on.) But once you know how to read your plugs and jet correctly, you'll really see big improvements in your machine. (We've seen a 1 HP increase in a 1/2 turn airscrew adjustment!)

We've got 40-60-80 and high 90+HP bikes in our group that rides Silver Lake. We also have a dynojet 188 chassis dyno, so I'm not guessing here. LOL. The 60HP bikes (4 of them) are running +6 arms with a 21X12X8-10 paddle extremes with 14-41 to 14-43 gearing. They are perfect for true dune action. Wheelies, jumping, turns and roost. Those same +6 bikes are also ridden on dirt at "Fox Valley Off-Road", "The Cliffs", and "The Badlands" with zero issues. (I was on our 370 long rod 60HP +6 bike at the Badlands just 2 weeks ago and did the whole place and I'm going for another trip to Fox Valley Off-Road tomorrow) NOTE:This is the bike that I'm thinking of putting the new serval cub motor into. With the serval cubs 80HP and massive torque, the +6 arm on this bike will feel more like a +4 with all that power. Although I think 80HP might end up being a bit much for the woods, but the serval cub has tons of low end torque and might just feel alot like a 4-stroke....time will tell. The 80HP bikes (three of them)are running +8's with a 22X11X8- 10 and 12 paddle extremes. These bikes are power wheelie bikes (not the kind you ride slow wheelies back and forth down the beach) But you ride wheelies up the face of the hills and down the back side. They spend 3/4 of their time dragging because when you make 80+ HP...well Dragging is the only way to really show it off. LOL. But these bike do catch some air. They just aren't known for going big. The 90+ bikes (three of them) are almost fully dedicated to dragging. (I'm a freak in that I dune mine.) But for the record....I'm not jumping with a +10 arm But the only time the front wheels are on the ground is when I'm in the middle of a high speed sideways drifting turn. (Because with 90+HP and a set of 74RO 14 paddle extremes on the rear, your front tires don't quite have much to say when your at full speed. LOL) With the Serval Cubs 80HP, I'd get that and pick your swingarm based on how easy you want the front end to come up. That's a personal choice and not very hard to change if your wrong......

You'll beat him...... Like a drum

Remember, evey time you lift off the gas....that just leans the motor down. Bliping on and off the gas at that speed is just cutting the amount of fuel you are sending in 1/2. WOT is dumping max fuel. If your jetted right it's fine. We have a guy in our group with a mild motor. (4 mill crank, vito's pistons, stock carbs and no port work with a set of Pro Circits his bike makes 45HP on our dyno...but the thing revs to 11,000! When he lifts, you get a hard lean POP. But he's had 40 HARD hour this year since spring and other than a flywheel comming loose....no problems. Ride it hard. That's how they like it!

Not this crap again. Seriously? Do we have to sit thru another 3-4-5 pages of punk kids claiming cops clocked them going impossible speeds with 18"-20" tires. PLEASE...Just let it go. Don't pile onto this one.

With a real big carb on a 2 into 1 intake, you'll have poor throttle response and it will be hard to tune anything but the WOT settings. For that matter, you'll be loosing top end on a motor that big with a 2 into 1 set-up. But if it was an un-ported 421 for trail use....you might be able to do it, but the big carb isn't the answer. I'd vote twin 35's for a cub since the cub only makes real HP gains in the high RPMs. NOTE: I've got a single 36PWK on a 370 long rod motor with full dune porting. I don't think anybody made or makes an intake for anything bigger than a 36.

I ride Silver lake with what would (At BEST) be called a Dune/Drag bike. It's a +4 front dune frame, +2 A-arms, +10 swing arm with a 472 Cheetah on gas making mid 94 HP the last time it was on the dyno. If your going for a full dune ride, I'd go with that new Serval cub 4mill (on gas), a +8 arm and a set of the full Elka Dune Edition shocks. Honestly, that would be my next build. NOTE: +10 is LONG for what your describing. You will have plenty of fun with a +8. EVERY bike that Cascade Innovations builds for dune action has a +8.

Now these are the kind of stories we like to hear. Ones with builders who are helpfull in times of trouble and customers who end up with happy endings. The builder may not eat the whole thing, but I'm sure he'll help him out any way he can. Now.....ditch those stock carbs with the choke tubes.

double check that you have the copper washers in place on both sides of the brake line fitting at both the master and the caliper. (there are 2 at each end sandwiching the fitting) if one is missing you can get fluid moving, but not get pressure. May not be it....but it happend to me once. I didn't leak either...just wouldn't make pressure. Good Luck.

I'm not 38.....I'm 40! I wouldn't "Hit" on her...I'd just like a closer look. I'm not the "Intimidated" type. Also I think your numbers are backwards. Three out of four will wait in the longer line with the incompetent hot chick just to get a closer look. The intimidated will get a long distance camera phone picture and check her out once they get to the car. By the way...just what did you mean when you said "use the self checkout or the Korean guy"? I'm not going to let a girls overwhelming good looks chase me into the arms of a Korean guy!

That GoPro video is choppy as hell! It looks like your doing a slideshow on high speed. Stop motion video action. I get seasick just watching your short footage on youtube. As far as Loco's video....it looks much better, but when your only seeing soil in front of you, it's a little hard to tell if the action is breaking up. But, it does look pretty good from what he showed. I've yet to see a video from that GoPro that looks any good yet.

Guys do alot of dumb shit just because a hot girl is in the room. Ever see a guy buy a flower from the "Flower girl" at a club, then hand it to his girl like he's so thoughtfull? Ever see how the girls act if he doesn't? Sex sells....so does quality stereo install work. Your not blaming him for showing off pictures of his talent.... don't get worked up about her wanting him to take pictures of hers. LOL Next time your looking to check out at a store and you glance at the different checkout lines to see which has the least amount of people....when you find yourself walking to the line with the prettiest checkout girl...you'll know your guilty.

If you want to stay with a two stroke and your blaster is getting small/lame at this point...than YES! A Banshee is right for you. (That dead spot in the Blaster might have been jetting related.) But, you can ride a Banshee virtually ANYWHERE you can ride a 4-stroke. The only real question is what style of power delivery do you really want. Also a 4-stroke will tend to go alot farther on a tank of gas, so you have that to consider as well. But I wouldn't look at a 400EX for your style riding. I'd say you have to choose between Banshee-YFZ450-Raptor700. Or similar styles in another brand. But, I'd say you would enjoy a Banshee in a 370 Long Rod motor or up to a full 4 mill stock cylinder set-up with a Woods/Trail/ MX or maybe even Dune port job. Spend the most of your cash on suspension.

X2 - TITAN RACING will hook you up and they will be alot better than the crap dome shape Trinity sends out the door. But....you might end up just doing the DM mod to your head. (Tim did that to mine) It makes it so you can run the new DM dome in your older Cheetah head. Call Tim, He's the best. Good Luck

Does it take the pictures like the gopro does? I don't like how all the helmet cams have the low frames per minute count. (even 60 per minute still has the shutter when viewed) The video just looks stuttered and jittery. (It's not the camera shake I'm complaining about, it's the breaks in the action. It's not smooth like a traditional camcorder.) But I did like the feature on the Gopro that allows you to set the camera to take pictures every couple of seconds. (I don't know of any digital helmet cams that can do a smooth stream video like a hand held camcorder, but at least I could get good digital pictures from every couple of seconds during my day.) Anybody know of a way to film action without the choppy effect of missing frames in the action? (Other than hiring a helicopter to cruise along side on me with a camera operator in the door gunner's position? LOL)

"Detonation" is the thing that keeps any motor with Trinity's fingerprints on it from being able to run right or even keep the O-rings in place.

Don't forget while your at it, to stick a nickle over each end of your bars and let it stick to your silicone. That little old school BMX trick will only add 10 cents to the $2 mod and then you won't tear up the end of your grips from ride abuse.

Take it from an old pro......She likes your machine. So build your woman a Banshee and use all your best parts. Then you upgrade all your stuff to even better stuff and she doesn't mind because your building HER a Banshee. Once she get's use to that bike, you slap your motor in her frame and upgrade your motor to the next thing up the food chain. Then the cycle continues. In the end you build 2 bikes for the price of one. All the useless stock junk gets sold on Ebay and to friends with mostly stock stuff. Trust me, you'll almost end up money ahead when it's over.

If she was in the market for a slow, heavy, low performance, machine with only one tailpipe and an exhaust note that sounds like a blubbering fart, to be used for very short bursts of speed with a maximum ride time of 3 minutes......YOU would be her best choice. However, As she's already ridden a Banshee, and isn't even interested in the 250-LT So your going to have to stick the activity.

Yeah, I saw a test once where they tested all the different add-in fluids for their true octane boosting power. That 108+ octane boost was tested and didn't do jack! They said that (By volume) the 108+ octane booster would have to have the explosive volatility of nitro glycerine to boost 5 gallons to the octane they are claiming with that one can.