WINDYCITYJOHN400

Sorry, it was the "Trinity Blows" post in the product reviews section. I bumped it for you. You should talk to "Modified RC" for his take on what he went thru.

You've seen my posts.....you've read my rants....now you get to join the club. Start by realizing that the problem with your motor (Other than those lousey pipes. Get some BB CPI inframes.) is that Trinity sold you the kit. I've tried to pass that on in the past, but now your seeing it personaly. Call Tim at Titan Racing and he'll get you the domes you need. Don't do anything else till you get the right domes. You will end up blowing an O-ring from detonation with the ones you have. Then you'll be buying very expensive pistons to replace yours when the water quenches them and sticks the rings. Next go in the "product reviews" section here and read the "Trinity Sucks" post start to finish. You'll see that I've already helped another fellow 485PV owner to see the light. It's not the powervalves. Trinity has your domes tighter at the piston crown than at the edge of the piston. "Mailman" and I have the 4 mill cheetahs just like you and we have been down this road. I'll give you all the info I can to straighten out your issues. ( As a matter of fact, My bikes going back on the dyno this Saturday) I've spent years of time and countless amounts of cash to figure it all out. I'll give it all to you free as long as when your done, and it's running like a raped ape, you throw Trinity under the bus every chance you get ...Like I am here! PM me if you need anything else. Otherwise, feel free to ask it all here so we can back the bus over that prick daily.

Great modd! Everyone should try it. It's a first generation leakdown tester. First fill motor with pressure from valve #1 and wait. After 6 min. pressure should still be the same. If not your plastic case is cracked. Valve #2 is to fill the frame with nitrous. On mine I just hook my refridgeration vacume pump up to the valves and pull it down to 30 microns. In a vacume I can spin the flywheel to 15,000. Look people...it's sarcasm. Everybody knows that's a cover modded to carry emergency replacement valve stems for trail riding.

Glad Tim is hooking you up. Tell him I said HI. Here's the link you were looking for. Everyone give it a good read. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131445&st=0

The Trinity/CP head is fine....it's their domes that suck. Titan racing can cut the standard Cheetah head to fit the new DM domes. He did mine. If your running Trinity domes or domes that Trinity sent....your running crap. Hope that helps.

Nobody was wrong. The flywheel IS behind the clutch cover....Very FAR behind it. You'll find it's located just after the stator and just before the stator cover. But it's best to go at it from the back.

If your running stock....try anything. Stockers are scary bad.

I agree completely with everything you just said. My comment about "when they need to be re-built, just list them on Ebay and buy new" Was really to point out that almost all the used Works shocks are trashed when they go up for sale, and finding someone to properly re-build a shock is very hard to do. Many shops just put new seals and oil in them and tell you they are totaly re-built. Many people can't tell a shock is blown untill they remove it from the bike and get the spring off. To have ELKA re-build my dune editions was $144 each+ shipping. The parts for the works are less than $50. I think your right that works will fill the needs of 90% of the riders out there. (We'd all like to think we are that 10%) But seriously, if your still running cheap tires or factory rims, stock A-arms, stock swingarms....why over buy on the shocks? When I see high dollar triple rate shocks with resiz's on the front and a stock shock on the rear, I always wonder WTF? Why not buy cheaper models and get them matched all around. My wife's last bike (a 400EX) came with the PEP triple rates with remote rezis' on the front and a totaly stock rear....never felt right when jumping and one way or another you could get bucked off if the bike hit just right. My wife's bike has my old works dual rates (no rezi's) and a modded stock rear done by "House of Horsepower" and with a +6 rear swingarm and +2 A-arms. I ride her bike in woods, trails and MX tracks and it's her dune bike. I think it jumps better than it did with the stock gear and a stock swingarm. I actually prefer the feedback and lack of body roll from her WORKS fronts compared to my ELKAS.

My wife had a honda 400EX with a +4 lonestar axle. All my sand tires were yamaha banshee rims, so I bought yamaha hubs and they fit right on her lonestar axle. I just bought 6 thin washers from ACE HARDWARE to run 3 per side to fill the small space. (Yamaha hubs are just a smidge narrower) So, I'd say I think they might. You could just pull your hub and try.....

A LOCK-UP is that device you need to plant all that power to the ground....... A LOCK-OUT is what happens when the wife finds out how much $$$ you spent on that Lock-up. And it's a lock-up!!! Even if direct drive calls them lock-out's in there adds. Your automotive electronic shifted overdrive tranny's can be the lock-up converter style and if you modd them to not lock-up it is sometimes refered to as a lock-out...... But the ATV part we are talking about is a LOCK-UP! If you call it a lock-out.....than that's what will happen to you in the trophy presentation.....You'll find yourself, Locked out.

Works dual rates for sure. Best bang for the buck. I love them. I've got a complete set of Elkas on my bike and put my old works on the wife's bike and the Elka's are worth every penny....but the Works are the best for the money. Get Works dual rates set up for your weight and A-arm length and you'll be very happy. Don't buy them used. They are like Bic lighters. They are cheap and work great and when it's time to rebuild them....list them on Ebay like everybody else and go buy another new set.

I'll chime in with a promise. (And I know,cause I've been there) Your Trinity domes ARE wrong. It's not your fault, so don't feel bad. But do yourself a favor and call Tim at TITAN RACING and for @ $150.00 he'll set you up with custom cut domes for your motor. "Mailman" and I, as well as a few other members here have been down this road and know that the Trinity domes are standard off the shelf domes and they don't have the proper shape to work with the pistons they use. DON'T run those domes or you'll pull your hair out fighting detonation issues that can't be solved with jetting or timing changes. Feel free to read more about it in my post in the "Product Reviews" section on this site listed under TRINITY...... P.S. your going to want .040 to .045 squish. Mine are .040. Hope that helps

This is the other end of the discution....a motor (that I assume) is close to 350cc's = a couple of overbores and it's got twin 35's! Talk about overkill. I'm running twin 35's on my 100+HP 472 cheetah! For MX ,you would like a 2into1. Like I've said time and time again....I'm a fan of the GRAYDON. The Trinity model works...but I feel it's sharp direction changes do hinder performance. You will see an improvement in performance as your carbs are more than likely too big. (Yes I know some people run 35's on a stock type motor, but your loosing MASSIVE amounts of bottom end doing it) Twin 28's would work well for you too, but since you just bought this quad...I'd keep stearing you toward the 2into1 because you will have an easyer time jetting with the strong intake signal. Plus it's less work.

You think banshee's are pricey....wait till you find a woman! Once you get involved in that, you'll think banshee's are cheap AND reliable.

They handgrenade after some time...your realy best to leave it stock. I've got a lightened one that I bought before learning that. Now it's for sale. If your more than 150lbs. you'll want the weight on the flywheel to help get you started. Try searching for a post that tells how much HP you gain by shaving it.....you won't find much. Cause it's mostly an old school wives tale. Stick with stock.

Also, the new tires might be reacting different to your toe adjustment.

When's the last time you saw a 6-pack in action on the strip? Most high HP drag cars are running a single dominator carb with a low rise manifold on a V-8. This topic is about the motors running a 2 into 1. I own a 472 Cheetah and I wouldn't run a 2 into 1 on that motor. But for a 392 or smaller the GRAYDON is a strong option that doesn't loose HP like you think it does. Read the entire post. I own one and it's a runner. I removed the twin 28's that were on it. Do you think I did that to loose HP? It's easy to bash stuff that you don't agree with. This post is asking how to make it work. Your signature tells me that you motor and your fuel are well beyond providing a helpfull input here. Plenty of people have posted saying that they have run them for years and like them. If you think they are throwing away power....fine. You just feel safe knowing you'll be out front with your twin 39's on alky.

UUUMMMMMM This was said in sarcasm. It was a joking response....that's what the smilies are telling you.

It's missing on everybody's bike....cause it gets ripped apart the first time the entire weight of you and the machine are bouncing on it! Once you replace it a few times you'll just put the cash in a nice case saver and forget the factory ever put one there.

In theory...one could argue that it might. But I've got one piston that's a 65.5 and ones a 65.75 I don't think a weld is going to let loose because of that. Un-welded stock cranks come out of true just because you start making more power overall than they can handle without a good weld. Besides, you had a nice 2 into 1 post going. Why we talking about cranks? Hey Sloryder, what kind of motor and riding are you asking about 2 into 1's for? Looking to make a change, or are you building something new?

No the cranks go out of true because your motor fires the right cyinder first. Right-Left-Right-Left....if you could make it alternate every other time you start it...Left-Right-Left-Right then Right-Left-Right-Left...it would even out the stress....you try working on that one for a while. Maybe swap your wires every time you start it.

P.S.....The brand new twin Mikuni 28's that were on this motor are sitting on the floor in my garage and they are "FOR SALE" complete with throttle cables and intakes. So If you don't by my opinion...than at least buy my carbs.

Just waiting for the haters to chime in.. Ok...I'm going to give you my take on this....I'm 40 and I've got LOTS of time on 2 into 1's As I've said before, I don't like the Trinity design. (It puts the carb too close to the reeds and the intake charge has to make a very hard turn coming out of the carb and hits the reeds at a hard angle as well) The GRAYDON design is the way to go. (They don't make them any more, but you can find them) The great debate is always based on info from the bad Trinity design. A 35PWK can properly feed a pretty big motor with a 2 into 1. Your jet size goes up due to the high air flow. On a bike with twin 35's your jetting might be 142-148 mains...with the single 35 on a Graydon you would be running a 178. Everyone who says that you loose top end is speaking under the impression that your somehow not getting enough air into the motor due to having one carb. This is rumor and false. Those same guys tell you to run twin 28's or maybe 33's! How would you flow more air into the cylinder if the carb was smaller? Any one ever ask the question..."How the Hell do you feed a Honda ESR380 with just one carb?" The YZ390 had one carb. And while I'm on a roll....so did the freekin' LT-500!!! That's like saying your banshee can be 250cc's per cylinder. So lets stop bashing the thought that it can't be done.The concept is to understand that each cylinder is only drawing an intake charge 1/2 the time. The whole point of a boost bottle or crossover/transfer tube is to keep that other carbs flow from completely dying while it's waiting for it's own piston to ask for more fuel. You will find that the motor just jumps out of the "mid rpm" type adjustments faster than it would with twin carbs. This is because the carb is very quickly at a high airflow rate. I've said before....We all understand the notion that a NASCAR motor on a super speedway needs to be wide open throttle to make top power. (why is it so hard to get guys to picture that a V-8 motor can run well with one carb...a 2-cylinder 2-stroke = @ the same flow as a 4-cylinder 4-stroke) You get that crisp low end power with the 2 into 1 due to the strong intake suction when you crack the throttle. That doesn't stop there. It pulls hard all the time because you have 2 cylinders making the carb flow constantly. This makes them easy to tune once you get in the ballpark. You never flood a cylinder because of a float issue in one carb but not the other. Your jetting changes are CAKE because you can twist the carb on it's side and get at the jets very easily. Even pilot jet changes are a walk in the park! One spring = less throttle effort. As we speak I'm running a 36PWK on my wife's 370cc D+M built (Doug's dune port) Long Rod motor with the new cool head. I'm running the FMF fatty gold's with the Turbine core silencers to make it more controlable for my wife. (If I put some SB CPI's on it she'd be flippin' over backwards in no time even though the bikes got a +6 arm.) The carb has 178 mains and a 42 pilot. (I'm still working on finding the best needle for this combo) How strong is this motor breathing thru a 2 into 1?....I'm running 12 paddle haulers with a 75" rollout and a +6 arm! I'd feel fine recommending running a GRAYDON 2 into 1 on everything up to at least a 392 cub.If someone can convince you that your loosing 3-5HP on the top end....explain that you spend ALOT more time running just shy of those peak HP rpm's and that in the lower RPM ranges you motor pulls stronger overall. If you don't agree with my take on the topic....that's just fine. I'll be at SilverLake on the 11-12-13th and if you are willing to point yourself out....I'll begin teaching CV theory in person. Hope that was the input you were waiting for.

The Banshee is like the 69 Camaro of the 2-stroke world...it will be around forever! Who cares about dealerships? They just sell stock parts...I've got piles of those all over the garage! You can buy entire bikes and not find a stock banshee part. What's my bike got that came from the factory?...Cases, Trans, maybe some seals oh and my brakes, but you can put 450 brakes on them too. The Banshee will be around long after you have aged out of the sport.

I had a set....I had them on 2 different Trinity motors. Let me help answer your question.....take them off and sell them to the first dumbass who hands you cash! Take whatever he offers and count yourself lucky. Anybody posts after me saying they think ANYTHING Trinity makes is good.... Count them as brainwashed by Dirt Wheels or current owners of Trinity pipes and dismiss their oppinions quickly. The only thing Trinity makes that is worth a $hit is their timing plate. I bought one and took it to church and dipped it in Holy water to clense the bad carma from it. Trinity parts carry a nasty form of 2-stroke V.D. stay clear and don't allow even casual contact with your machine.