WINDYCITYJOHN400

If your going to Silver Lake the bigger concern should be to do some plug cops when you get there to make sure your jetting is good. ( Alot of times Banshee jettings aren't set up for all the high speed, wide open riding like you find in the dunes.) I think you'll be fine with that timing at your compression. Enjoy the sand. I won't make it up there till late May.

I don't know why they even make a T-6???...Who keeps a Banshee close enough to stock for these pipes to ever make sense? Of the 2 pipes you listed...the T-5 is the only pipe to think about.

Tight plugs won't prevent detonation problems....if the plugs don't back out, the O-rings or head gasket will just blow out. Once that happens, and you quench the hot pistons with water and the ring lands squish down and clamp the rings you can plan on a new set of pistons. (It happend to me, it could happen to you.) Stay at 40:1. 50:1 won't make you more power. Race fuel doesn't CAUSE detonation...it PREVENTS it. Check you compression and then ask about fuel needs based on the compression. If you can do a squish check it will help with the info also.

Tim @ Stellar Machine and Performance!!!! He's the new Top Dog in the business. I've got a +10 custom swingarm from him and now I'm sending him my sub-frame for a makeover. I can't say enough good things about Tim and his buisness. Must be a "Tim Thing" because Tim at Titan racing is another top quality guy. TIMMMY!

And of course I'll throw in the old school trick of soaking it over night in COKE. Yes COKE. If the chrome isn't so bad that it's peeling, Coke eats the rust off pretty nicely over night. Then you can touch it up with the steel wool and do a polish job on it. Carefull though, now that it's rusted once...your going to have to keep a decent coat of wax on the stuff at least 2 times a year, or else you'll find it changing back to rust. Let us know what you try and how it works out. Good Luck.

Righty, Tighty...Lefty, Loosey. Lay off the Monster Energy Drinks. I like the ratcheting 13/16 box end wrenches. Hand tight + 1/4 turn.

It's just a breather hole so when the powervalve opens, the air behind the valve can escape. A PWK style main jet goes in it (mine were shipped with 230's)and you run a vent hose to it. press the hose over the jet. Then you run the hose down the frame stays (I tucked mine thru the front motor mount brakets) then just have them droop down low like you would a carb vent. Nothing goes in the tubes but air. Your running the hose as a long straw so sand and stuff doesn't work it's way into the valve from the outside. TRICK #1 - Use clear hose and when it looks all black and nasty...it's time to clean the powervalves. TRICK #2 - After your first full season of powervalve riding... Pull the powervalves and try a set of block-off plates. Powervalves soften the hit of the pipe by blocking power. So if you want that light switch powerband to be brighter....take the dimmer switch off. LOL. 472 (72 bore)4 mill cheetah dune bike. Formerly with powervalves...Now fully ported and running block-off's.

I'd say do a completed listing search on Ebay. It'll tell you what stuff SOLD for, not what people are asking. I know here in the Chicago area bikes are mostly stock and the owners seem to think they are worth $2500- $3500. But the only bikes that end up selling are going for @ $1500-$1800. I think a stock or mostly stock machine has LESS value than one with extra aftermarket parts. (I know some think mostly stock means it's in better shape, or has less ride time or wear) But after you buy a set of pipes and change all the stuff you want to customize.... What was the point of buying a stock bike? What STOCK parts do you really want anyway? I picked up a MINT 99' Banshee last October in a trade for a ratted out Honda 400EX. The bike still had an active TORS and the parking brake!! I've never even seen a Banshee that still had those on it. LOL. This bike still had the stock front bumper,un-molested wiring, even the stock rubber style wiring straps on the bars and the frame didn't have any scratches from shoes or boots. Now 6 months later....only 7 parts from the original bike are still part of the bike. ALL the other parts were sold off to pay for and make way for the aftermarket stuff. I'm not sure about your area, but I'd check you local Craig's List to see what other stuff is listing at in your area. I'd say $1500-$2000 Max,would be my target price.

I'd try (just for kicks) moving your front pipe mounts to the outside of the hangers. From the look of the pictures it looks like you have the tab from the pipes mounted to the inside of your billet front hangers. (Ever pipe seams to have it's own personality when it comes to fit.)Try switching it so they are on the outside. This will roll the head pipe out toward the frame and away from your filter. On some brands and styles, I've had to go to ACE and get 1/2" spacers to push the pipes out to fit so they wouldn't hit heads, frames, filters, Etc. Sometimes it works better to even put spacers on the rear hangers to angle the pipes away from the carbs sooner. Otherwise I'd get the angled K+N pods. Or some PWK'S. LOL. Keep us posted....

BACK THE FUC K UP!!! Wait....Forget the 90MPH story....Your claiming 85HP on that totaly mild build!???? AN Unported 421 cub makes 88HP on gas!!! Your not wrong....your clearly insane! You keep falling back on the whole "It's not stock" story. Well listen pal, I'm running a 472 Cheetah motor with full race porting, custom cut dome from Titan racing, power valves, CPI Big Bore In-Frames, a JJ+A axle, 15-43 gears with 77 RO tires in sand and Knobby tires that say 20" on the side, but measure 22 1/2" true for dirt,(My original set said 20" on the side but measured 18") all this is mounted to A full chromoly metal tech frame and my bikes weighing in at only 310. Your bike is nice...but it ain't nothing. Bikes like yours hit craig's list every day. My wife has a 370 Long rod motor from D+M Racing with Doug's porting and custom cut domes that will run circles around yours. Forget the speed debate, I've figured you out....you are in Europe aren't you? Because you must be working with the metric system if you think your ANYWHERE near 80+HP. What have we had now... 2-3 guys who think your not on dope? I'm going to admit it...you got me. You really did get me. I totaly got sucked into your game. You managed to get alot of people all riled up and trying to debate you. But now I see....your just one of those guys who spends pages and pages of posts telling people that you don't care what anybody says or thinks, yet all your doing is justifying yourself over and over again. Ok....I think we'll all just take our toys and go home and leave you and your other attention craving speed jockey's to BS back and forth while we go out to ride our REAL HP Chariots. I'll go back to planning my dune trips, my dragstrip trips, work on helping the BansheeHQ glamis trip off the ground, post up some BADLANDS dates, and you can go back to racing up and down the street. If your bike makes 85HP...mine must make 200HP. If you can do 90+...fine, let's say you can. Let's also understand that if we all lined up side by side on your street and raced....buy the time you get to 90 most of us will be a block ahead of you, pulling in clutches and turning around. Take it easy there Evel Kinevel. I'll keep an eye out for your vapor trail........Think I'll name my next race team "Garmin Racing". Seems to be the hot new trend

Maybe you could explain just how you managed to get "Clocked" buy a sheriff.... Why would you knowingly fly past a cop on an ATV on the street going 92? Why would he not run you down and ticket you for riding on a road or speeding? What makes you think (if your going to say he knew you) that he didn't lie to you? What makes all young punks think that their testosterone and ego can defeat physics? You would have to be running 22" tires with a 15-42 gear to mathmaticly go that fast. That doesn't even take into account the HP you would need to fight the wind resistance. Your bike can't turn the RPM's to go that fast. Most cars need full throttle and a long straight to get up to 100 and the wind is the hurtle not rolling resistance. Your story is B.S. If you are so sure of it...have your COP buddy do it again, but hold a video camera and tapr the radar gun showing your speed....till then, quit stroking your EGO.

I agree, Nice write up. I do sheet metal for a living and I'm also thinking that CDI braket isn't going to last long. The sheet metal screws will fail/strip/back out if the front end of that braket isn't bolted in place to. Or the braket will shake like a mud flap till the metal cracks. But I'm most impressed with the fact that you got a battery to fit between the tank and the seat! I've wanted to do the DC conversion to run some LED lights, 4 or 5 Trail Tech's on a light bar and to stabilize my current to not spike my exhaust temp gauges. This looks like a hot setup.

Just another teenage dumbass who can't grasp that his tires are connected to the motor through his gears....measure the tire size on your bike, then figure out how fast that tire would have to spin to go 100MPH. We veteran guys have these things called gearing charts. With them we can just plug in the Tire Size - Gearing Ratio - RPM. The answer pops up in a jiffy. For your tires to spin that fast.....your motor wouldn't be able to stay together. 2-strokes are awesome...but your stock crank and CDI don't operate above 10,000RPM. Sorry, Tell Santa the GPS he left you doesn't work in "Real Time" well enough to be used to accurately report ground speed. Set up your camera near a roadside radar sign and make a few passes. My money says your running 70+ not 100+. Trust us...your arguing with guys who have BIG cc motors with crazy motor mods. My wife's bike has more done to it than your bike.

If my bikes still alive after this summer full of trips to Silver Lake MI...I'm looking to make an early Oct. Glamis trip. I'm friends with "MAILMAN". He's not too far from there. He goes alot. So I'd like to join up with him and have him show me the whole sceen, Olds hill, china wall, etc. It would be cool if this worked out as a "HQ Happening". I'm in....

NOTE: Steer clear of Burt's machine...it's got the clap. Don't get near it if you don't want your bike to catch a dose.

That's funny! I'd rather take the unported machine than own a Trinity or Alba ported turd. Most builders don't want to fix another guys mess. LOl.

Your the one guy who might not break one........Your bike isn't making big numbers HP wise. (BUT read the caution below) I have had (in many calls) about 3-4 hours of conversation with Greg about this tranny and the problems they are having. They DO have a problem. He hasen't found what it is yet. It might be HP related or in the downshift action. He's got a few broken ones coming back and wants to see what happened so he has a better grasp of the problem. He's trying to recall all the EXTREMES. He has ZERO problems with the standard overrides and his Duneable overrides. He did alot of testing of the Extreme, but the HP was low (60-75) and on dirt. He's not testing in sand. If you have an Extreme in your bike, at this point you can pull it out and return it (he wants to make things right with people) or as a precaution CLUTCH IT WHEN YOU DOWNSHIFT. He still thinks you can backload it without issues. The problem for most seams to be when they click down into another gear even if only lightly back loaded. I don't want to say too much in place of Greg. This tranny has great potential, but he's still got a bug to find. Calling him is the best course of action at this point. (As always, contacting any builder is tough because if he's on the phone...the work isn't getting done. So try and try again later.) He's not selling the Extreme till he get's it figured out. He's got about 50 in the field, so he's swamped with in-going and out-going calls to try and alert people and respond to people's questions. I hope this answers some of the questions people might be asking. ONLY the EXTREME is in question. The Standard Override and the Duneable Overrides are doing as good as they ever were.

The drag port number your searching to hear is 198-130. Your not going to find a HP curve/slide rule comparison of a stocker VS. a fully drag ported cylinder. Your going to have to face the idea, that if you fully drag port a stock cylinder....it won't be worth a crap to use for anything but drag racing. Your talking about port work that will leave you with a tiny high RPM area that you will make power in. Your gear,tire,chassis,jetting, and pipe choice will need to also match what you have done port wise. If your talking about savings.......don't worry about what you spend VS. what you give up.....think about what you'll have to spend to get a max port job to run. Those who actualy run fully done stock cyliders well, are about as rare as pro linebackers. You'll also need to be fluent in dome design concepts. (not just cc's = compression) But shape. (You gotta' really know your stuff to tune with those guys cause if your off by 1 jet size your loosing tons of power) At this point a bone stock cub is making more power than your current setup. That's why the cub is so widely used.

Trinity racing products carry a 2-stroke form of V.D.! If you put Trinity products on your machine it will take endless amounts of time as well as expensive professional treatments to cure your machine from the deadly effects. James, the lead sales manager over there told me their 400cc Cheetah motor kit would make me 105HP! Um,...NO. Don't think so. What it did make was me an expert at tracing down the massive amount of things they DON'T know. Like how to design a motor to not blow O-rings on every trip. Harry doesn't know jack about dome design. He just throws a standard dome in everything, even if it leads to certain Detonation. That steaming pile of Banshee Motor was such a piece of crap I boxed it up (after 2 years of thinking it must be me that's the problem) Sent it back to Harry and he said he'd build me a 485 for all my touble....well he built me a 472 then Dyno'd it.....92HP. REALLY? WTF? James told me a 400 would make 105! Guess what? The 472 couldn't keep an O-ring in to save it's life either! So I stopped drinking the Trinity Kool-Aid and found Tim at TITAN RACING. Over the phone he knew what my problem was. He sent me a set of domes to TREAT the Trinity V.D. and on the next trip.....Not A single fricking problem, not to mention TONS more power. Every time I take a Trinty part off...the bike gets faster or more reliable. Now I won't park my machine any where near a bike with Trinity parts...I don't want my machine to catch another dose of the dreaded Trinity V.D. Please take my advice, DON'T HOPE FOR THE BEST. Don't use them to buy parts. Any of the site sponsers can get you the same things for less. You won't get it cheaper by going direct. You also won't get any informed advice. Did you catch the artical in Dirt Wheels last month about Trinity's amazing 3 cylinder Banshee drag bike? Gee like we haven't seen stuff like that here on this site that runs well....Trinity got all this publicity from Dirt Wheels for a machine that they can't even get running! WTF? So this month we get a little diddy in the letters section sent in by James about him digging up a 3 wheeler burried by a mountain of sand. Wow, how hart warming. Maybe he should have thrown the 3 cylinder drag bike in the hole and coverd it over. Sorry for the rant, but I've wasted too many ride seasons and too many thousands of dollars to just let this question go by with a short answer. Harry and James couldn't orginize the time and material it takes to pick their nose. Pick a different company. Run forest! RUN! Call TITAN RACING. It's hard to find anyone making more power than Tim.

He listed this last year and jerked around with not listing a price for months. He thinks it's the greatest banshee frame ever made and thinks just because it's mint and new he'll get as much or more than it was new. They don't make the outlaw any more. He thinks he's got a high demand collectable. It IS a nice looking set-up BUT, it's not going to get sold for anything north of 1/2 what he's got into it. You could buy a complete running mint calander quality bike for what he thinks the frame and suspention are worth. I think he just wanted to have people tell him how wicked it looked. I don't think he'll ever get the money to finish it, so posting pics and reading the people lusting after the roller is about as close to an un-veiling as it will ever get.

I just sold a frame all modded like your talking about. Gussettes and added brace tubes. It was a fricken TANK. Too heavy. I'd only worry about added braces for the rear shock mount area. Guys get all gung ho about making the frame as strong as they can....your going to break alot before the frame. Like the shock mounts on the top of the lower a-arms. If your riding realy hard those mounts like to get crushed in on themselves. When you brace the rear part of the sub-frame, (where they all bend from big wheelies and rollovers) you just end up bending the entire sub-frame the next time it happens. I'd try to not take it too far.

Umm....Go!

Depends on what level of porting you go with Trail/MX/Dune/Race/FullRace. Also having parts that match the level of flow the porting will provide will help. But stock is mid 30's HP depending on the condition. Would almost double do the trick?

If you look long enough you can find frames on ebay with paper for $150-$200.....Swap stuff and re-measure. Might only be the frame. Hope it's not in the a-arms to.

No, Air strikers have a small fin like set of channles at the 6 O'clock position in the mouth of the carb that lines up with the jets. This gives a stronger air pulse over the jets when your at part throttle. You can run the hoses over the top of either carbs.