WINDYCITYJOHN400

Engine ice is sweet. I run it and it makes a difference. But without airflow...your done. If your mud bogging with little to no airflow your going to overheat no matter what. If your into digging holes and getting no where fast....buy a 4 stroke...that's what they're best at.

Saw a similar post on PS about the same problem with the Hinson pressure plate and a lock-up. The solution was to just run the stock pressure plate.

Then your detonating.

Geckos ARE the worst sand tire ever made! Buy anything else you can find before you waste good money on them. If you want a v-paddle get some sand skate II's or some Sand Stars. Otherwise go with the Gold Standard of the industry "Scat-Trak"....Haulers or Extremes. Scat even has a V-style called the "Edge". I've owned a set and I liked them....till they were stolen.

leaking reeds letting pressure flow backwards into carbs at higher RPM's? (That ones a guess) My PWK's did this to me. I bought new fuel needles...still leaked. So we re-cut the shape of the fuel seat in the carb and now they are fine.

I guess now that he's OK, it's alright to have a little fun with this story. I laughed my a$s off when I read your signature above. "WOW WHAT A RIDE" isn't what I was thinking as he was telling us this story.......I was thinking more along the lines of...."WOW, YOUR BUDDY MUST HAVE A BLONDE ROOT TICKLING HIS BRAIN" Loosing a Kidney is one way to shave the weight, But I think a JJ+A aluminum play axle could have dropped about 10 lbs off of his ride and looked better than the scars too.

How would Trinity know if their pipes respond well over 10,500? Their motors don't run that high! I've owned 2 Trinity motors. (A 400 powervalved Cheetah and a 472 powervalved cheetah) Both had Trinity pipes and both motors sucked! I finaly put new domes in the 472, (cause Trintiy doesn't know jack about dome design) and sold the Trinity pipes to some poor guy who still has stockers on a stock motor (couldn't hurt him as bad as they were hurting me) and got a set of CPI's. Now all's right in the world. But if you gave me a set of Trinity pipes right now....they'd be on Ebay tomorrow! I like the T-5's or the FMF Fatty's for a Trinity replacement pipe for everything but the dunes. The dunes belong to CPI and Shearer. I like their response... "They'll work well with any porting"....this from the company that sells spark plug locks to stop plugs from backing out from detonation. Yeah I guess that one way to solve that problem...

If your bike is suposed to have a tail light...and you didn't know that...maybe the cut wires grounded to the frame and now you know why your lights aren't working.... Or......you might be traveling at the speed of light.

Somebody's over compensating......

Brake cleaner and elbow grease...

If only you would realize that your dyno sheets are only showing you how bad the Trinity design is....the Graydon is an awesome performer. (15 years of seat time and plenty of people who are stunned at my 2into1 performance. My other bike is a fully ported 472 cheetah) I have 28 Mikuni's on my wife's new 370 long rod and I'm selling them and running the Graydon with a 36PWK. You like the 28's? Make an offer. They are brand new with only 2 rides. As for this guys post...he's not asking you to throw every owners 2 into 1 under the bus. He's saying "What pipe would work best for what he has for an intake and carb". You think the 2 into 1's suck....there are plenty of people who would insist that a 350 should run 30's 33's or 35's. There is more than one way to get the job done. The key is the total combo...

Go thru the carbs a second time.....fuel needle might be leaking when it's running. Also use the Brake cleaner and blast those jets good and make sure the fuel needle seat it good and clean..

Free word of advice here...YOU CANNOT JUST PUT SCREEN IN YOUR PIPES AND GET AWAY WITH IT AT SILVER LAKE. The DNR guys and gals don't know much....but they DO KNOW what silencers came with spark arrestors. They even have laptops at the gates with ALL the pipes that ever came with arrestors in a picture file! I've seen them use it to double check a dirtbike rider who was trying to sneak thru with the screen trick! FMF TURBINE CORES are your best bet for a 2-stroke with a typical pipe set-up...otherwise you'll need the Cobra Sparky's. When in doubt they look for the USFS stamping. Buy them before you get there.....DAR "Dune Land" charges a fortune for them cause they know you have no other choice. Clean them every 10 ride hours like the directions say...or you'll see power drop even more. Also watch that your fiberglass silencer material doesn't get all blocked up in them. You can pull them off once your in...but you risk a fine. If your riding a 4 stroke...leave your spark arrestors in your pipe....your not going to be fast even with them out. I wish "Big Brother" could adjust that rule for Silver Lake....I've never seen a sand fire before. But the rule was written to cover the Trail system. They just won't change the enforcement because it also helps lower your sound levels which they have problems with thanks to a lawsuit. Hope that helps ya'

I've got a GRAYDON 2 into 1 intake and a set of FMF FATTY GOLDS on a 370 long rod motor on my wifes bike and it Rips! My bikes a fully drag ported 472 cheetah, so that's saying something. (Her bike is mine for dirt riding) Another guy in our group has the same set-up on his 350...GRAYDON 2 into 1 with 35PWK #50 pilot, #178 main, and the FMF FATTY'S. These bikes run well enough that we NEED +6 arms in the sand. He and I ride these bikes as our dirt machines as well. We don't have any issues with the length of the +6 arms for dirt trails. It feels almost stock to me. My vote is for the FMF.

Well you have 2 choices...Alloy bolt..or Fastener guy. Those are the only 2 selling kits on ebay. Fastener guy is selling weird size length bolts. I've used both companys in the past. Learned to read instructions after the first time I had your problem. Anti sieze EVERYTHING on your bike that doesn't need Loctite. Never a problen since. I just bought a 114 piece kit today as a matter of fact.

Yeah, What he said! If you can't afford to have a guy who knows what he's doing port it for you....Then you can't afford to screw it up yourself. If you can afford a new set of cylinders if you make a mistake....then buy them now and start hacking on those. When they are done you can give them a try. That way if your work sucks, you can pull them off...put your old ones back on ...and list you "Awesome Race Ported cyliders" on Ebay like everyone else. Seriously, A good port job won't set you back that much. Use a top builder from one of the sites. Your local lawnmower repair guy isn't going to save you a dime.....He's going to end up COSTING you coin. Good luck.

Stick with what you have for a trail bike. The cub motor shines on the top end. De-Tuning a cub motor for trail use will leave you with a big motor that doesn't really work well for the way you want to use it. Sure guys are going to say they rode one and it's great. Don't believe it's all they say it is. What it will be is a bike with no bottom end that when it does hit it's sweet spot in the rpm, will be like a light switch. A 370 long rod motor would be one of the ideal set-ups. Cubs should just come with a +6 arm to start with as standard equipment. I have 2 guys in our ride group who built unported 421 cubs. One ran Toomey T-5's and one ran Vito's Fat bastards. Didn't matter what gear they were in...it was either a bad bog..or tires spinning wildly. Cubs are great for sand or pavement. I've got a 472 4mill cheetah for the sand and a D+M 370 Long Rod for the Trails. There is a nice used 370 kit for sale on Ebay right now.....

Money sent on silencers. SOLD.

Silencers....$175 shipped?

Well I did what your trying to do. I got the wife a Honda 400EX. It had a 440 big bore kit and PEP triple rate shocks, +4 axle, and all the basic little upgrades. I'll cut to the chase...Buy her a nice white tank top, some tight jeans, and a BANSHEE! NOTHING is hotter than a chic riding a Banshee. Once she figures that out she'll be a Banshee addict like my wife. LOL. The 440EX wasn't fast enough...Hope her new 370 long rod dune ported motor will satisfiy her need for speed. Either way....the tank top looks great. If you don't like my idea.....just get her a YFZ450. She rides red once a month now. Why add to her misery? LOL.

Not to step on any toes ....(In the past I have argued that "100 low lead AV gas" was not a 2 stroke fuel) BUT!....Once Tim at Titan Racing told me directly, that I could run 110 race fuel or AV gas and almost not even have to re-jet, I had to rethink my stance. Your right, they don't have the same octane rating system for Av and auto. But the AV low lead is actualy high in lead compared to the Research/motor fuels. Lead was the best product in the past for preventing detonation and increacing the octane of a fuel. Now his problem MIGHT just be that when he switched from the C12 to the AV gas the weather might have required a jetting change. I'm not saying don't try running race fuel. But I AM saying that when Tim cut my custom domes he told me that he thinks motors run BETTER and CLEANER on the AV gas. But if your racing at a track your going to have to pass a fuel check, so for his track motors they end up running the race fuel. But he was specific when he said I could jump from 110 to AV gas and not re-jet. That's my 2 cents....not trying to be the smartest guy in the room...just passing on info from one of the Nations Top Builders. Free.

From one Powervalve motor owner to another..... #1- Pull the powervalves and Loctite the gates to the disk plates. #2- Check to see if the bolts that hold the powervalve to the cylinder pierced into the water jackets. (Mine were sent with bolts that were too long and thankfully I caught it before it became a problem) You may have to silicone them in if they broke thru. #3- You have a Niksil cylinder...it's tough!The only issue you realy need to keep an eye on is if water gets into the cylinder. (like a blown O-ring from detonation) once water hits a hot piston, it can squench and the ring lands can pinch the rings and then you'll need new pistons. If you want to keep an eye on your build, you should be able to get a good reading by looking into the exhaust ports with your pipes off. You get a good view of the top of the piston, the hot exhaust edge of the piston and rings, and the hotest face of the piston skirts. Other than that...use clear hose on your powervalve vent tubes. When they look completely black...pullthe powervalves apart and clean them with brake cleaner as you would clean a carb. (@ twice a season) Hope that helps.

Your fuel isn't the issue. (Unless your not getting enough of it) I run 100AV gas and can jump from VP-110 to AV gas without rejetting. (Tim at Titan Racing talked me out of the whole "AV gas isn't made for 2 strokes" point of view) +4 timing isn't all that agressive either. I'd say you have "Trinity Disorder".....it's when your domes just don't work with your piston shape. (If you know anything about Trinity you know what I'm talking about. LOL.) I think you can solve your problem fairly easy by doing a squish measurement. Contact Tim at Titan Racing or any other major builder regarding getting custom domes cut. (For about $150 you can get domes made specificly for your motor. Why go with off the shelf standard cuts when customs aren't that much more?) Hope that helps your problem.

The 4mill long rod motor is a very nice motor for dune action. I have the 370 long rod in my wife's bike. (Lots of fun with a +6 arm) It is sleeved for the Blaster piston so rebuilds are cheap. I don't know if going with a bigger bore with sleeves and pistons is in your budget, but I think you would be VERY happy with your 4 mill either way. Ask what the specs are from your builder for his "Dune Port". Some builders just raise the exhaust port 1 mill and call it good. You can get custom cut domes for @ $150.00 from Tim at Titan Racing and he'll have your motor set up for whatever type of fuel you want to run. With Tim's domes you'll make more power than using an off the shelf design. All you need to do is a compression check and a squish measurement and he'll get you set right up. Start with +4 timing. CPI small bores are an excelent choice. I've got a brand new set of Mikuni flat slide 28's with 4 hours on them if your interested. (The wife wanted less throttle effort so now she's running a 2 into 1)

Well Baker, I think you should take a chill pill and shut the hell up. Everybody do yourself a favor and check Baker's profile. While your there click on "Topics" and you'll find ALL of the posts HE started. Like the one in January 2010...where he asks for help figuring out how to split his cases because he's changing his crank and he's never split cases before. Guess your a busy guy now since your claiming to have built 5 banshee's over the winter. Try being a nice guy and just answering peoples questions without standing on them to make yourself look bigger. Your a NOOB who's trying to pump his own ego by razzing others who ask for help. Don't go telling people you've been building banshee's since they were in diapers when your sitting in a wet spot while your typing. Aren't you the one who claimed at one point that your brother AND your dad were certified Yamaha service tech's? There's nothing wrong with being a noobie....everyone was at one point in life. But don't be a NOOB who thinks he's got a Black Belt in advice. Just shut up and read for a year or two.