WINDYCITYJOHN400

When you get to 100HP you'll want 4. LOL. And if you make more....you'll be fabing up a strut brace from the frame to the stator side cover.

Yeah, forget Cascade. Jeff sent me the Dino top with the Croc sides and it's sick!

Well OK. Good to know. Well as far as the Ebay stuff goes...only SLC uses chromoly. ( we have a +8 and a +12 from SLC in our ride group) But for his price I'd rather get one from Stellar. (So I did. )Tim is the man, and his work is shaking up the industry.

My last one was a +6 square tube Ebay model....IT BROKE. ( I've got a friend running the same size and style arm and his is still fine...) Now I'll say this, the day I got that thing it felt SO STRONG I thought there was no way you could EVER do anything to damage it. I felt it was stronger than the stock one. But the third season I had it I was riding it on the dunes at Silver Lake MI (Mind you I'm 40 and I'm no high jumping X-games wanna' be. LOL) But I was flat out dragging against "ToomeysheeLE" and "Dozer520" when the round tube that has the shock mount on it, twisted like a twist throttle and my bike dropped down into a VERY low stance. (Almost took out my silencers with my paddles.) After looking at the welds we determinded that the actual metal of the square stock ripped aroung the edges of the welds. The welds didn't crack. The metal they were welded to tore. I think that's why most other companys drill through the arm and slide the tube all the way through and weld it on the inside and the outside. After that, I called Stellar and had a one off custom arched ladder arm made out of chromoly. This ones a +10 and I don't worry a bit. I'm not saying yours will break like mine did, but I AM glad I didn't get hurt when it did. Your call. But that's my two cents. P.S. I checked, and mine was from the "2many sprees" seller. I've met the swingarm shop guy at Silver Lake and he was a nice guy.

I run 4. But my motors really making power. 4 helps keep it from twisting in the frame as much. 2 on opposites is stock. I wouldn't make them out of rubber. They are metal with a rubber coating over them. 13 bucks sound high, but motors twisting and wearing your chain and sprockets will cost you more in the long run.

Yeah run the Nology coil with their "Hot Wires". Your not going to get a seat of the pants change out of a boot or an auto wire stuck on the stock set-up. But that Nology coil is like Lightning for your plugs.

First guy in a long time to post with a realistic price. Nice bike, Nice price. Should sell without having to be parted out. Good Luck.

Call Elka and they will walk you through it. All the shocks have a small serial number stamped at the back of the top shock mount (If I'm remembering correctly) it's anodized red like the shock body so it can be hard to read. Also the springs will have a small paint mark on one coil that will help identifiy the spring strength. But they will most likely know it all off the serial#. While you have them on the line, be sure to ask them what adjustments to make in terms of the compression and rebound as well as any other stuff, because they can get you dialed in very nicely for your weight over the phone.(weigh yourself in your full ride gear) If the springs are wrong for your weight, they aren't much to change them out for the right ones. I went from a +6 swingarm to a +10 and needed a new rear spring. It was only $75 shipped from Canada, and the compression and rebound adjustments they told me to make were spot on! Great company to deal with. Call them. The advice will be free.

Will lunar pull effect this topic? Is it best to torque when the moon is new or full? Let it go....

If you want a true improvment, switch to a NOLOGY coil.

Mounting to the side of the helmet gives the most steady shot. On top, your head motion is magnified as you glance up and down and your head shakes. Both work fine so it's a personal preferance.

True, but if your EGT hits 1300+ ,your melting aluminum. So they are good for preventing a burn down. Also they work great at seeing differences in your cylinders. You'll know if a cylinders not firing, can see differences between carbs, you can see when reeds go bad, air leaks, blown O-ring, and they work with race gas (unlike the short life of an O2 sensor) so you can ride with them for years. They aren't as perfect as an O2 sensor for jetting, but they can save you from a burn down if your jetting gets too far off. If they are included with the pipes....I think it's a bonus.

And those people get to vote. I think we should all have our IQ written on our forehead as a public service announcement.

Flywheel tool - http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0008/ Why re-invent the wheel? Fits in the tool box too. Works on the clutch side also.

Hit it with your purse.

Well thats a big plus. Now you can keep an eye on your jetting.

Yeah, are they sound legal in most places and can we figure a way to run some kind of sparky? In Michigan they require one and guys are using the new Toomey arrestors or the old Turbo "sparky" models. (But I'm told the old turbo sparkys are no longer made.) Any thoughts?

I'll try to make this real simple for everyone. In the eyes of the law....if you have an ATV and don't have a title...then you don't OWN an ATV, you just HAVE and atv. Now, I know some people are going to dissagree with this next statement and they are going to say "I'd just this" or "I'd just that". But if I loaded your quad into my truck while you watched me do it...and you called the cops and said "Hey that guy stole my quad"...here's what might happen. #1- You and all your friends tell the cops about what just happend. The cops arrest me for theft and confiscate your bike as evidence. I'm charged with theft due to you witnesing me taking it. Now your asked by the cops to prove OWNERSHIP....no title = your not able to prove ownership, so they keep your machine and sell it at public auction. (That happend to a guy over on another site. He even had pictures of his bike being built and with custom airbrushed graphics with his NAME on them! That's why I can say "No Title = No Ownership) #2 Cops stop me and ask me if that's my quad. I say yes. They say one was reported stolen and the guys say I took it. I say "Does he have any poof that this machine is the same machine he claims is his"? Your left describing scratches in paint and plastic as if being able to describe an ATV is the same as having rights to it. The cops are unable to do any thing more because "Possession is nine tens the law". I got it, so it's up to YOU to prove it's yours. Now the cops might tell me I need to turn the quad over to them for the investigation.....and if I'm dumb enough to do that...then we're back to option #1. Either way you loose your quad. Don't buy the story, that your state doesn't issue titles. If you can go to your loacl Yamaha dealer and finance a bike...then it has a title. That's what the bank holds till you pay it off. Most don't have a title because you pay the sales tax on the purchase when you register your machine to get your copy of the title, so many people skip that step and then they are left doing "bills of sale" which in the eys of the law don't really prove OWNERSHIP....just PAYMENT. So in the case of a theft, your "Bill of Sale " from the guy you bought it from only proves that you paid for this (Possibly stolen) atv from somone else, so at the very least your not guilty of theft....just selling stolen goods. Bill of sale = proof you paid for it. NOT THAT YOU OWN IT. Possession is nine tens the law. BUT... many states require you to have a title. Not having a title can be as bad a charge as theft. Hope that clears up a little misinformation and answers the question of why have a title.

yeah 3-5 psi...get a low pressure gauge. It makes a big difference in the handling when they aren't the same pressures. You can have 3 psi in one tire and 10 in another and not really see a big difference....till you ride it and your getting sprung funny on jumps and hooking better going left than right.

Well after your smart advice about sandblasting your tranny with coal slag and running sand in your oil....I thought I'd let the guy know that some of us know what micro polishing IS and what it is for. $200 for a complete tranny, fully modded, cryo'd and micro polished is a good deal. I was only countering your mockery of the micro polishing with some facts. I don't think either of us can best guess as to what his needs are. I'm just saying he didn't get ripped off.

He bought a pro mod tranny. That's a fully modded stock style that can still be backloaded and ridden like a stock trans. It just shifts smoother and easier than a stock cut. Not every item in the ATV world is ment for the Planet Sand Drag guys. This guy needed a tranny. I guess if the cases are split and I'm doing a re-build I'd buy the same tranny. (I have that same trans from WCR in my wife's bike) This guys bike isn't a full drag bike in need of an override. But every banshee can benifit from a Micro polished pro mod tranny. So I don't think he wasted his money. He was asking about WCR, not micro polishing. You obviously knew nothing about micro polishing untill today. The guy bought a great part from a good guy. You offering your opinion as to what he should spend his money on instead is just that....your opinion. My comments sound like a sales pitch because I'm a satisfied customer of WCR and I have no problem promoting his work in public. It's called good word of mouth.

I don't get the sarcasm. WCR is one of the companys that made override transmisions what they are in this sport. Many top racers run a WRC trany. They offer pro mod trans work for MX type bikes all the way through full overrides. They now offer Micro polished gears. In our testing we have forund that the micro polishing can free up as much as 3HP. Our Pro MX racers have run them for years. (finding 3HP in a 125-250cc bike can be big.) The micro polishing combined with cryo treatment leaves you with the strongest tranny gears and smoothest running parts that you can get. Greg will even tell you that with his micro/cryo'd combo there is no need for billet gears in a banshee. WCR may not be a site sponsor...but they are one of the top outfits when it comes to tranny work. He even has a new override design comming out soon. (This time he actually filed for a patent on his idea, because with his new design it's impossible to bend or even wear a shift fork!)So very soon you will see me posting the release of the next big thing in Banshee tranny's. So, I know we hear about alot of junk for sale regarding Banshee's, but WCR makes some great stuff. I'm surprised your not familiar with them.... MICRO POLISHING - They started doing it in Formula 1 cars, then it made it's way into NASCAR, NHRA, World of Outlaw Sprints, and now available to you for your Banshee from WCR. GOOGLE IT!

$20,000 NOT. Maybe $12,000. And it's not worth a penny over $6,000 right now. It's a nice looking bike, but let's get real about the value of it in this market. No after market cylinders, no custom airbrushed plastics, no JJ+A axle......it's got bling...but not much ChaChing.

Will you all stop jerking his chain and answer the question?!! Look, your best to go to your local Yamaha dealer and ask for the "Ionic Yama-tecno-spec Frame fluid" It's used to reduce the vibrations to the frame. (Running too low a fluid can cause a frame crack that most often starts near the rear shock mount.)Some guys to save money just use the same fluid you run in a battery, while others insist on using the synthetic stuff from Rocky Mountain ATV. (They don't sell alot of it cause it's $$$, so it's not in the catalog, but call and ask for it. (The Rocky Mountain item # is NE1469) I've just stuck with the factory Ionic fluid and I've NEVER had any issues. (I don't think the synthetic stuff is worth the extra money.) Besides the manual only states that you should change the fluid ever 5 years. I do change mine more often. I change it every 3 years and get a new chain at the same time. (I don't want to have the chain break and put a crack in the cases.) The last thing I need is to be riding the trails with cracked cases and a tranny coolant leak! Go with the Ionic Yama-tecno-spec. The manual calls for 1.8 quarts, so buy 2 quarts and keep the extra to top off each season. Good luck.

I hate the look of front fenders on just about every ATV. Everyone in our ride group has there front fenders cut on the Banshees. When we got one for my wife, it had MINT looking factory plastics. Even the graphics were perfect. I asked her if she wanted full fenders or race cuts....she said "It looks a little goofy with the fenders. Is it hard to cut them off?" Well, I waited about 4 weeks, then one night I came in and told her "Well, your in the club now....your fenders are cut." She thought it looked alot cooler. Now one of my frineds got a different set of plastics from a parts bike. (It wasn't nice looking, but was in better shape than what he had.) His previous set of plastics had cut fronts. The newer set had full front fenders. I kept telling him to cut those damn ears off. He gave me the whole line about running in mud and water and wanting the protection. We had this discussion on the way to the "Badlands" in Indiana. An hour later we all took a trip through the tubes there and jumped into the water hole at the exit of the tubes. (It's like a 8"-10" deep 15ft round splash pool of water.) We all stopped and hung out at that area to watch the other guys come through the tubes. I took that time to point out that I had the same wet spots on my pants as he did. So much for fenders saving you. At the end of the day we were ALL equaly muddy. Cut the fenders. Ears look gay. Don't think so?.....Just look at factory LT-500 plastics and tell me that bike looks cool. Or don't....without stock fenders to show how they looked stock...no one would know how much cooler they look cut.