bansheesandrider

Yes, most if not all billet baskets come with cushions. 1/4 inch of play would be a bad basket. I have had no expierence with the Magnum baskets, but that was one of the brands I have heard negative things about. However, I am sure if you dig enough that you can hear bad things about nearly any brand. I also know Hinson slls cushions seperately so when you need replacements down the road you can get them, I don't know if their cushions will work with other baskets.

I don't care how much or what kind of paint is on the swingarm or bearing carrier, if the tensioner bolts in the chain adjuster are properly adjusted and tightened the carrier should not be able to move forward, unless it slips backward first and the adjuster bolt slips out of the notch in the swingarm. The only way it can slip forward is if the tensioner bolts back off, because the tensioner bolts fit in a notch on the swingarm. I have a chrome swingarm, which is very slick and have never had this problem.Put your bike together with a good torque wrench and torque things to spec, I also use blue loctite on everything. Not only does the loctite keep things tight, it also helps prevent corrosion by taking up the space where moisture causes rust to form.

What year is the white radiator cover from, if it is a factory piece?

There is a tapered section below the threads that fits into the spindle. The taper should flow into the threaded portion with the angle equal on both sides. I hope this explains it.

Stay with the stock box and use a timing plate, it is more reliable. If you have access to a dyno and want to buy the software, cable and programmable CDI box from DYNA, you can do some dyno pulls and play with the computer and make an ignition curve that might give you some more power where you want it.

Do you have the correct slide in the correct carbruetor installed the correct direction? Did you reinstall the black hose between the carbs that is inline with the choke knob? Did you get the float bowl mixed up between the carbs? The left bowl is different than the right bowl. What were the carbs you took the needles and slides out of? When you eliminated the TORS and installed the twist throttle, did you install an idle kit? There are plenty of threads on here about TORS removal and jetting and also a whole technical document about jetting, you should do some reading and learn how things work. Good luck.

Since you have an 89, it is a lot of work. You will have to fabricate a bracket for the switch by the rear brake pedal. If you want it to work off the front brakes also, then you would probably have to get a front master cylinder from a 2002 or newer for the front switch. Then you would have to splice into the wire harness to get power to the switches, you would splice into the yellow wire coming out of the stator and going to the headlight switch, it already has a blue wire spliced into it from the factory for the voltage regulator, and run that wire to both of the switches and then run wires from both of the switches to the brake light. Or, you could buy a 2002 or newer wire harness, stator, CDI box, headlight switch,key switch,headlight wires, brake/taillight assembly, front master cylinder, rear brake pedal, brake switches,etc. Those are the parts I know off the top of my head that are different between 1989 and 2002, the first year of the brake light. This is a lot of work for a brake light that has no business being on an off road machine, and besides that the brakelight is ugly.

The cushions will give a little bit, which is normal, but if you can feel the gear actually moving back and forth on the basket, that is bad.

IT goes to the park brake assembly on the handle bars, it is a rev limiter so when the park brake is set you supposedly can't ride the bike. It can be eliminated by cutting the wire in the bike harness at the CDI plug, I always cut it on the bike side, not the CDI box side, and take it out of the harness. That way you don't ever have to worry about it touching ground and limiting RPM. If that wire is grounded, it will limit RPM and miss.

If you need to replace your basket for a legitamate reason, then definetly get a billet basket, otherwise run the stocker until it is done. A legitamate reason is: the figers are heavily grooved- this will cause poor clutch release, the cushions are wore out and the drive gear is moving back and forth, or you have ALOT of horsepower and want peace of mind that it won't grenade. I would go with a good one like Hinson, Barnett, etc., because some guys on here have had problems with the cheaper ones off of Ebay.

No, the stock ball joints are welded into the arm and the only way to replace the ball joint is to replace the whole arm, assuming that they are stock arms. That is why aftermarket arms are so popular, you can buy a set of aftermarket a arms for about the same money as a complete set of stockers and then in the future you can replace just the ball joints.

Most of the guys I ride with run a +4 or +6 swingarm and stock sized control arms. That way it is fairly manueverable between trees still. I also have a +2 axle andI feel that gives me plenty of stability for sidehilling so I don't need extended a arms in the front. If your swingarm is stock, you can get it extended for $100-$150 exchange, it won't be a round house set up but it would save you from having to get the shock revalved later. My recomendation would be go with the shocks of your choice, keep the stock width a arms in the front, get your stock swingarm lengthened and try it. That way you shock would be setup for the swingarm and you won't have to get it revalved. If you have to have a round housing swingarm you can get it later. I would go with a wider axle before you get wider a arms, it will have a greater effect.

Don't knock trying to find a Walmart nearby, I have to drive for 45+ minutes to get to one because the ass backwards county I live in won't let them build one. They have tried to put them in 3 different cities and they keep denying them, They have finally started construction on one after 4 years of jumping through hoops.

The tank itself was exposed between the two side covers,there was a piece of rubber edging on each side cover. But there are aftermarket covers in chrome, carbon fiber and Cascade vinyl. I am nit sure where to get the chrome or carbon fiber, but I have seen them.

Do not hook them together, when the park brake is set the switch is closed and the wires are connected. When the park brake is off the switch and therefore the wires are open. One of the wires is the ground circuit of the bike and the other wire is coming from the CDI box, so just cut them. When I removed the park brake from my wifes 97, I cut the green with yellow stripe out of the bike wire harness clear back at the plug for the CDI box and the other wire I cut it out where it spliced to the main ground wire in the harness.

Vaseline or grease

I would think that you would not want oil anywhere near them while they are being coated. I would clean the oil from them and get them coated and then reoil them. The other way of doing it would be to PC them and then clean the bores with brake clean or lacquer thinner, then if there is any residual glaze, make a quick pas with a glaze breaker.

The only year I can think of with a white radiator cover would be the white and silver combo that was available on 06 I believe. I am not positive on that, it could have been silver also.

The first step[ to getting rid of it is unplugging the little black box under the left side of the gas tank, I believe it has 3 wires going to it in one connector. That will disable the system so it does not cause problems, then to clean things up, get a TORS eliminator kit. It will have new carb tops, a throttle cable, idle screws that need to be drilled and tapped into the side of your carbs, and if you choose, a twist throttle to replace the thumb throttle. But you can stay with the thumb throttle, you just need to decide before you buy the kit, so you get the right one. It definitely sounds like you have no spark, if that is the case, follow the steps provided by 87sheerips. Your plugs are wet because there is no fire to dry them out.

From the sound of it your top end is done, do a comp. check. If it below about 110 maybe 105 then it is time for a top end.

I have had both on my bike and with the Haulers you can powerslide, in other words the bars are turned to the right while the bike itself is making a left hand turn. When I had V paddles on it it was bars to the left to make a left hand turn. My wife complained about the V paddles not being able to slide. That is what I meant about the V paddles, the paddle is bent so there is an edge to bite in and keep the bike from sliding. Everybody I ride with says if you are going to ride trails and don't want to slide out on the corners, to run V paddles, and if you want to slide around in the open sand to run Haulers.And you are the only one in this thread that is saying to run V paddles to slide, everybody else is saying to run Haulers if you want to slide.

I have had good luck with this method: unbolt the caliper from the axle carrier and put a piece of flat bar metal between the pads in the caliper. Then hold it above the rear master cylinder reservoir with the bleed screwe at the highest point. Open the bleed screw and gently step on the brake pedal, but don't let it bottom out. Before the pedal gets to the bottom of its travel, close the bleed screw and then release the pedal, wait a couple of seconds and repeat. This seems to work because air likes to rise and by making the bleeder the highest point, it gives the air someplace to go and get out of the system. You want to only stroke the pedal 1 time for each time you open the bleeder screw to prevent aerating the fluid. This method will probably require a helper, but isn't that what wives and GFs are for. Sometimes the open bleeder screw and keep the reservoir full method will work because it will gently wash the bubbles out with the fluid, The main thing is you don't want to induce a bunch of air into the fluid at the master cylinder by pumping the pedal violently.

I run a 50/50 mix of Prestone antifreeze and distilled water with a slight amount of Water Wetter, per the instructions on the bottle, in it. I try to change it at least every 2 years if I haven't done so sooner, and I have almost no problems overheating. The only time my Trail Tech Vector goes above 205 degrees is if I am continuously racing the hill for long periods or if we are on the beach riding with the wind so there is no airflow over the radiator.

Any tranny oil meant for a two stroke transmission has the same friction modifiers for the clutch that ATF has, and most of them have a better EP( extreme pressure) additive package to protect the gears, shift forks and bearings than ATF has. I prefer to use Klotz Flex Drive 30, part #KL506 in my tranny. My bike shifts the best with this and there is no wear on any parts the last time I split the cases.

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