bansheesandrider

Which blue ones? the blue one that says NOS on it or some other one? Where do you get the blue ones? lol

You have to determine if the tether switch is open or closed when the cord is removed. If it is open with the cord removed then it will replace the Key Switch. If it is closed with the cord removed then it will replace the Off/Run Switch. The 2 wires going to the Key Switch have to be connected to make the bike run, The one wire going to the Off/Run Switch(all the other wires going to the left side of the bars are for the headlights or the PB rev limiter if it is a 97 or newer) needs to be an open circuit for the bike to run, and it needs to be shorted to ground to kill the bike. Hope this helps.

The base gasket is the backup seal. If that fixed it, it will be a temporary fix as the real problem is the rubber plug in the bottom side of the cylinder is leaking and letting the water get to the base gasket. But, I don't know how it leaking past the plug and base gasket is letting it get in the tranny, because as far as I know there is no path for it to get there. If it was leaking past the base gasket, it would either run on the ground or into the crankcase and be burned or vaporized during combustion. However, this posters problem could be the water pump seal and it could be the impeller shaft and not the seal itself. I have seen several aftermarket impellers that have soft shafts on them and the seal has wore a groove in it so bad that a new seal does not fix it.Also, make sure you use a genuine Yamaha seal, because from what I have seen in my 25 years as a professional mechanic Yamaha has some of the best seals available.

Boyesen reeeds have you remove the stoppers and just use the plate they send with them. But after breaking a set of new ones on my ported reed cages, the guy at North Bend Yamaha said that on ported cages he recomended running the Yamaha stoppers. I didn't have them with me so I put them in without them and have not had further problems.

I agree, the Clark is nicer. I don't think it sits any higher than stock, I believe it is wider. With the Clark tanh you won't use your tank covers and you have to cut off the part of the front plastic that goes by the tank and then the oversize tank sticks out to fill the space. The IMS is the same way.

X2 I also have big eyeglasses, as does my wife, and the Scott 87s work great for both of us. She uses a Quick strap and I use the regular strap as I sometimes just ride with my sunglasses as I am always the leader. The nice thing about the Scotts is that they take the same lens as the other 80 series goggles so you can walk into any bike shop and get a new lens.

Not if they are genuine Yamaha gaskets. If the base gaskets have the silicone bead on them, they dont need sealer. Most head gaskets don't need sealer on them and if you have a Cool Head with O rings you should put some Vaseline or grease on them to keep them in place during assembly.

If that oil is truly an 80wt oil, then that is your problem. 80wt oil for ATVs or motorcycles is meant to be used in hypoid gearboxes or shaft drives. I highly recomend the Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil. I have been using it for over 16 years and have never had a tranny or clutch problem with, not even a welded clutch ball and I don't have a pancake bearing in any of my bikes.

Hydrogen embrittlement is a problem with the chroming process. But if you have a chromer that is aviation certified, they know how to minimize the problems associated with structural parts. That being said, I ahve had nothing but problems with the swingarm I had chromed. It keeps cracking on me. I have decided when I do my next frame buold up that I am going with powder so at least I can tough it up easily if I have to weld any cracks in the future.

Last time I checked, Cascades chromer will not do used pipes because the carbon in the pipes screws up the chrome in their tank and it becomes useless for future jobs. They have to drain and clean the tank and put in a fresh mix. There are very few places that will chrome used pipes. I would try to get it polished out, maybe by a professional. Also, ceramic coated if done properly woul hold up very well.

When Kevin did it he said he was going to keep the bend info in his database so that in the future he could do more of them and that was why it was the regular price, because he wanted to expand his database. And that is what pissed me off about the T3 deal is that they should of had the info to do it because the T3s that I have are the standard JD Racing cut T3s that were sold by the hundreds here in Oregon. I also agree that there are alot of non sponsors that are a great place to have do stuff on your bike. But as I said this is what I HAVE EXPIERENCED at Cascade and I know that it is not the customer service that it was when Kevin and Becky owned it. All this arguing doesn't really matter because I am going to continue to use Twister for my cranks, boring and head work. I am going to continue to buy my bling and seat covers from Cascade. I don't plan on having anything else ported but I don't know where I will go for that if I do.

All Banshees 2002 or newer came with a Brake/taillight and 2001 and older have just a taillight. From 97 to 2001 I believe the bikes that went to Maine and New Hampshire had brakelights on them also. Do you want just a tailight or a brake/taillight? If you want just a tailight then you should already have the wires on the bike and you can mount and connect any light you want. If you want a brake/ taillight you could look up the parts for a Maine/New Hampshire bike to get what you need, depending on what website you use to look up the parts they may call out the Maine/New Hampshire bikes seperately or it may be listed as a taillight kit. But be warned that is expensive, one of the switches is $80 and the other is $120. You could also use the parts picture to see what is different andtry to buy used parts off a 2002 or newer bike.

So who went and what did you think? I was there on Friday and Saturday and it definetely was not the same as Dunefest, which is both good and bad. The bad was that things did not seem very organized, there were long periods where nothing was going on on the dragstip, the guys did not seem to know how to fix the lights when they got ran over or bumped, etc. The racing that I watched last year seemed like it was better organized, but maybe part of the problem was that attendance seemed to be down this year also. I was not on the sand or at the stage after dark so I don't know how thos festivities were. The godd things about it were that evrything seemed less expensive and you did not have to buy a pass just to ride the dunes like at Dunefest. At Dunefest you have to buy their $30 pass just to put your bike on the sand, and if you have a few kids with you it adds up fast. Hell, at Sandfest you did not even have to pay to to watch the racing or anything else. I was talking with a vendor that sells a clothing line for sand and he told me that the cost for a vendors booth at Sandest was about 1/4 the money it was at Dunefest.

I know exactly how they make their stinger tubes and if you read what I posted earlier, I said that Kevin made the set of stingers for my Engine Trix pipes at the regular price. Yes, I took my bike to Kevin and left it there for him to custom bend that set and he did the whole job for what it would have cost to buy an off the shelf set of stingers and silencers. There was no extras labor for the custom set like they wanted to charge me for the set for the T3s. I also worked in an exhaust shop when I first became a professional mechanic and I do know a little bit about custom pipe versus off the shelf pipes. I never said you could get pipes chromed anywhere else cheaper, I said to take you BARE pipes to a GOOD chrome shop and you could get just as good of a job done elsewhere. I know that GOOD chrome shops are hard to come by in the green world we live in. I had my chrome done by someone else in the Portland area and considering that it has been on my bike for 13+ years it has held up really well. I also said that Cascade is one of the better places to go to make yourbike pretty. But, I don't think they are the best place to go to have a motor built, AND I think their customer service has gone downhill since Kevin and Becky sold it. I am really surprised that you guys are sticking up for Cascade considering that they are not a site sponsor and everybody on here is always saying to use a site sponsor.

They will fail and probably damage your swingarm and/or your bearing carrier.They won't hold up to any sideloading.

Any stock shocks are going to suck, the factories just don't invest much money on stock suspension except for the 450 race bikes. You would be better off trying to find a set of aftermarket shocks that were made for a Banshee and that can be rebuilt and properly valved and sprung for you riding style and weight.

My frustration on the pipe deal was not that the price had gone up. They wanted me to pay regular price for a set of stingers and silencers PLUS pay 3 hours shop labor for the custom stingers. When Kevin still owned it and the silencers had first come out when Oregon cracked down on noise, Kevin did a set of custom stingers with slincers for my Engine Trix pipes at the normal price, no additional labor for "custom" stingers. So on the T3 deal they wanted me to pay for 1 set of silencers and 2 sets of stingers but they were only going to give me 1 set of stingers and 1 set of silencers. That is exactly how Chris said it to me and he told me to "take it or leave it", I said I would leave it and if I wanted their silencers that I would buy a set of Fattys(which my wife likes better anyway) and then buy a set of off the shelf silencers. As for where else you can get nice chrome pipe, just buy a set of bare pipes and take them to a well known local chrome shop. That is all Cascade is doing. They certainly are NOT doing their own chrome. All I am saying is that based on my expierences with them , they will not be building any motors for me, or doing any crank, cylinder or head work. I will continue to buy parts, seat covers and off the shelf silencers from them, because in those catagories they have some of the best deals out there, on items that fit my needs.

Every time I go in there I get nothing but attitude from Chris. He is a Banshee god and I am an idiot. 3 years ago when we were doing my buddy's GF's bike he went there to pickup the crank and was told that it had not come back from the rebuilder yet. My buddy asked who the rebuilder was, thinking it was probably Twister which was on the way home, and they told him they could not give out that info. They did not want to give it out because they did not want to lose their cut. So it was only second hand because It was my buddy's crank that I was waiting to put in. It was also the same buddy that bought the bike from them and had clutch problems while we were riding together, but he did not want me to spend time fixing it for him when they should have done it under warranty. If somebody spent 6 or 7K in my shop, I would want to make sure that they were happy with the expierence they had with me, not charge them more money to fix the problem. Also this is a buddy that I would trust with my life or wife and there are not to many people that I would say that about. When I wanted a set of CSFX silencers to go on my wife's T3s, they wanted to charge me normal price for a set PLUS $70 an hour shop labor for probaly about 3 hours to "custom" build me a set of stingers to fit the T3s as they no longer made them for T3s. That used to be a stinger that hung on the wall all the time but he said he would have to "custom" build me a set. I told him it would be cheaper for me to buy a set of Fattys and stingers for them than to custom build ones for the T3s. I have spent alot of money there over the years, I have cascade seats on all my bikes and I have just about every billet piece they make for a Banshee on my bike. 2 of my bikes used to be in their photo album on the counter and Becky knew me on sight when she saw me away from the shop. But when Kevin and Becky sold it, the customer service has gone seriously down hill. I only go in there for parts or seat covers now, but then again I don't like anybody working on my stuff but me. Like I said before, I take all my crank work, boring and head work to Twister. The last crank I had done, Louie did while I waited and he walked me through every step of what he was doing and told me why or how. It all made sense to me and he did the complete crank very quickly with no wasted steps.But you are right about their parts inventory at Cascade, it is very good. But as Alf said, I won't trust them to build me a motor or do critical work.Also, I am just stating the expierences that I have had with them.

I have used Klotz R50 at 40:1 for 15 years and never had a problem, That is 1 pint or 16 ounces to 5 gallons of gas. If you buy the pint bottles it is an easy mix, if you buy it by the gallon jug and measure it yourself it costs about half as much. I usually buy a gallon to mix when at home and carry a couple of pints in the trailer in case I have to buy more gas on the road. As far as spark plugs I run BR8ES in all my Banshees and the Blaster, this include my 89, 2 97s and a 98 Blaster. I also sometimes supply plugs for my buddy's bikes which are 99 and 02. I use the BR8ES in all of them so that I only have to carry I type of plug. You can use the resistor plugs in any of them it won't hurt, but you might damage something electrical on the newer bikes if you use a nonresistor plug(so I have been told).

I had posted in other threads that Twister was doing their crank work. My riding buddy bought a brand new 99 Banshee from them when he got into this sport because they were making him a hell of a deal on the bike, paddles, T5s, jettted, clutch springs, and a few other small things. They fucked up putting the clutch springs in and he had problems with it. He took it back to them, they charged him to fix it and it still did not work right. He ended up taking it to someone else to get it fixed and it cost him more money. He has sinced learned and now has me do his Banshee work. This all happened at Cascade when Kevin and Becky owned it, but the stuff I have heard about them since they sold it to his brother is not any better. They are a great place to go for stuff to make your bike pretty, but if you want a local Portland shop to do cranks, porting, boring and head work, I would go to Twister.

Clicking on the link it looks like the standard chain that comes with it is garbage, but they give you the option to upgrade to a DID X ring chain. I currnetly run DID X ring chain with Sunstar sprockets and it is holding up pretty well. The chain is lasting better than any other chain I have had except maybe the stock one which was a DID also.For the money, this has been the best combo I have tried. I know there are other chains out there that are better, but they are also more money. If I was going to spend more money, I would try one of the Sidewinder setups. I also would not run a cheap chain because I don't want to have to buy a set of cases because of a chain wack.

If the old stud is not broke off, you should be able to screrw in a new stud with red loctite on it by hand and then make sure it is snug. Then install a nut and torque it to 20 foot pounds and retorque all your other nuts. The torque pattern is cast into the stock head or can be found in the shop manual, you do have one of those right? Check for coolant leaks and you will be good to go. IF the old stud is broke off, then you will have to remove the head and see if it is sticking upto put a ViceGrip on. If it is not sticking up you will probably have to remove the cylinder and drill and use an easyout or take it to a machine shop to be repaired.

Most of the time if the splines are wore on either the hub or the axle, they are also wore on the other part. You can replace only one part but odds are that the repair will be short lived and then you will be doing it again and replacing both parts to get it fixed right. It does not pay to fix it halfassed. If you are buying used parts I would inspect the splines very carefully and make sure there is no play in the splines when you put it together. Having your quad breakdown on a riding trip is no fun and can even be dangerous, parts flying off can lead to crashes, towing a bike back is no fun, sitting in camp while the others go riding sucks and if you ride alone your bike can travel farther in 1/2 hour than you can walk ALL day.

The claim that they boost lowend power, but in reality they cause your intake boots to crack, which causes an air leak and then your motor blows up. That should be reason enough to remove it NOW, or you will have more to fix. Is it worth risking your motor blowingup over a $15 part? The reason that they still sell them is that there are still suckers out there buying them. If they can sell it they will because that is money in their pocket, they don't care if you are happy with it, only that they are getting richer.

Sounds like you have plan for fixing it. It was probably hard to remove because it was corroded. Whe I put anything together on my quads(which are ridden exclusively in the sand) I use either anti-sieze or loctite. I use the blue loctite even on stuff that I am not worried about it loosening up because with the loctite in the threads there is no room for moisture to get in there and start corroding things. Because there is no corrosion it is easier to take things apart that have been put together with blue loctite than if it was put together dry.