Jump to content

RadarRacing

Members
  • Posts

    1,973
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by RadarRacing

  1. man that first pic looks like a big azz scratch. You need to return that stuf and get a refund. I'd kinda like to have a super but it looks like it needs plated. A new cylinder is only a grand why dont you just get that one plated and new pistons or sell that one and get a new one. .
  2. they work good and jet pretty close to pwks too. all the keihin needles,pilots etc are the same. The powerjet is totally not needed and is poor quality on them. Just keep it closed.
  3. i agreaa with tedder 100 percent. i'd drop one more and see if the color lightens up any if not i'd go another one till it gets a little lighter in color but thats gonna be close not like 5 jets off. i will say thats not rich by much but those last couple jets make a difference in hp on the dyno for sure.
  4. I second the main being small. "110" you should also have a needle specifically for alky. Not whatever comes in the carbs when new. It sounds like a lean hang to me. You said it blows raw fuel out of the pipes, are you talking about WOT, 1/2 throttle riding, blipping the throttle off idle? I ride at 1/3-1/2 throttle or so in 3rd with a slight load on the motor and then blip the throttle with the clutch in, hopefully it takes a cpl good raps to clear out. Depending on how you ride can also get a lean cond at the end of a run if you just let off the gas and don't pull the clutch in with the motor turning high rpms, it will be very lean for a second and can high idle.Don't do that if you were but probably not just a thought.
  5. What did each crank degree out to on each before you started cutting? Everyone says the 4 mil is way too high. It would be better to see the ports lower and need spaced up rather than down so far. I really wonder what the 10mil degrees out to with the ports that high. Before I cut anything I'd degree it out or bring it down and port from there. FYI many people are having the nikasil come off on these cyls.
  6. If that thing was in kansas city it would be in my garage getting ready for flattrackin. Sharp bike for an 87.
  7. I'll take the cover and paypal you, but will not be home from the lake to do it till mon. I'm on my phone. If you wanna sell it to cajun I'll understand but if you can wait I'll definately buy it. Plz pm me a paypal address and I'll send as gift. Thank you. Todd
  8. What do you mean its getting took off? You had bad dealings on here? I'd take the waterpump cover if u have good feedback I haven't looked you up , is that $30 shipped? Paypal?
  9. To adjust the arm and arrow you use the adjuster that's in the pressure plate that has the nut and funny designed phillips head. Then do the cable adjustment at the bars.
  10. They have a book on amazon.com that tells you the secrets builders don't want you to know. I did my overdrive in about 10 mins with the sawzall I use to port cyls.
  11. This is confuseing me. It is not disengaging the clutch when you pull the lever, and it slips when you ride it? Do you have the clutch arm adjusted to point at the little arrow on the top case? Do you have at least 1/4" of slack at the.handlebar lever?
  12. What thickness base gasket do you have? It shouls be about.012 to .022 not a real thick one. There are .040, .060 ones too. If all the crown of the piston sticks out of the cyl then you have the wrong dome.
  13. Domes for a blaster piston are different than banshee pistons by quite a bit. Also domes for a stock cyl 4 mil crank are different. You probably have a bad match on something. If you call Jeff at FAST he is very good at getting that lined out.
  14. The spacers hurt topend very slightly but you should have topend. Do you happen to have a ricky stator? I had a bike that ran great till the top of 3rd then I'd lose to buds bikes. Mine was a bad ricky stator. Otherwise check pickup gap, plug caps and all electrical, reeds...,
  15. I'm lookin for a lowering kit for one if you have anything, also an intake or K/N.
  16. look like 34mm mikuni VM carburetors. Very common carb on snowmobiles and even sold by come cos for banshee applications. Tony Ducas Racing sells em I know. If you need parts for them any carb part co such as Carb parts Warehouse or Sudco should be fine. They usually have fairly rich needles in them for gas banshees and you have to raise clip/drop needle a couple clips. I may have a few parts if you tell me what you need. You also can get a plunger choke assby for them.
  17. He means drill the dumps if the carbs aren't setup for alky yet, sounds like they are. But not all alky carb setups are right for every motor, make sure the needle flows enough to keep it from being lean low-mid. Run either a normal banshee plug or most a 9 heat plug B9ES or the irridium equivalent of that plug. Also gap your plug tight like .018 or even .016.
  18. Just double check everything when you put it together. Check squish and make sure its in the .043 range give or take a few thous. Also have someone who knows how to tune alky carbs help you if its the first time for ya. might call Rob at RDZ and buy the base gasket from him and tell him you bought one of his setups so you'd like the gasket thickness he recommends.
  19. I've got a mint set of wheels with or without the scooter tires if Shaynes don't work out for ya. I'll take $70 shipped for the wheels they were ran 1 time.
  20. RadarRacing

    A-arms

    I have a really new set off a dragbike too if that deal doesn't work out , have the brake line hooks shaved and touched up where you can't tell it ,never dented or even trailrode. They look new.
  21. Oh great Tyler don't tell me you call carbs "strap-ons" cuz the metal strap we call a clamp holds em on. Lol Yes you can get a Gigot performance slingshot lockup that fits under the stock cover.
  22. Overall I was excited to see these $599 kits with pistons etc but they are not very good kits for a 4 mil seing as how they are really ported for a 54mm stroke. If it were me , I would do this. Mind you do at your own risk and be sure not to cut into the water jackets etc. #1 use a thinner base gasket if possible but still not get the bottom of the exhaust port below the top of the piston at BDC. I would shoot for a 194-198 exhaust duration. #2You'll then need to call Dave Noss at Noss Machine and tell him you need special domes cut ($80 set approx.) I would use probably a 19cc dome with less "STEP" in the dome than what you had. Do the math to get your squish to approx .042 #3 I'd port the tops of the transfers up to get it to the 128-130 range for transfer duration. NOT JUST THE TOP OF THE PORT but port back to the bend where the tunnel starts aiming down. KEEP THE ROOF ANGLE THE SAME #4 Cut the bottom of the sleeve just a bit more on the side closest to the exhaust, probably cut it to where the bridge between the tunnels is. #5 Get a cub base gasket and port the transfer tunnels to match the gasket and port the cases to match. You would need to have enough room to cut the tunnel all the way up and keep it from bottlenecking anywhere. The smallest point in the tunnel is the size the rest needs to be up till the bend when the charge is compressed smaller at the bend. #6 Clean up the exhaust and auxillary exhaust ports where they are really rough. I would also square the aux ports up just a bit at the top outer edge farthest away from the main exh port. #7 I'd watch the timing not many cubs like or want to run at +12 #8 If I were running DRAG type pipes CPI , SHEARER etc I'd flatten the exh port roof just a bit by bacically squaring up the outer top portion or "shoulders" if you will. If you are running a pipe with more range like T-5s or FMF I'd leave the main exh port roof shape alone. #9 I would check the angle of the front transfer closest to the exhaust and for high RPM power make sure that front trans is aimed to intersect the other front transfer at exactly the middle of the bore. If it is aimed towards the middle of the intake I'd change it to middle of the bore for whats called loop scavenging at high rpms. My guess is its going to aim at the middle of the bore. You didnt show the intake any but it's probably SOMEWHAT fixed over stock. What a bunch of bull crap these things run like they do and have to be fixed. I dont know what CAMATV did to fix his but probably something similar.
  23. You need a 4" wide 10" wheel. I have a set to list for sale if you are interested I just took my 130/90/10 tires off of them. They are douglas blues mint cond. $70 shipped Radar
  24. I need to get mine polished. What do you charge to do one and send it back, how long does it take you? Thanks Radar
×
×
  • Create New...