RadarRacing

Just what he said. Its a mechanical device that uses centrifugal force to put pressure on the pressure plate or actually is the pressure plate and as rpms increase it puts a lot of pressure on the clutch to keep it from slipping. You can use normal springs or HD ones. The sligshot I know has held 170 hp. It also makes a clutch last longer on a high hp bike.

Why would you wanna dragrace, and potentially break your quads, crash, smell like smoke, eat deepfried chicken wings, or smoked ribs eat corn on the cob, drink wayy too much beer, get sunburned, watch guys get arrested for doin stupid drunken crap in camp , and tell lies all night around a campfire? You could just rent a good chick flick and stay home all weekend with your wife? Besides sand gets in yer VAG if you go too fast. ARE YOU SERIOUS?

I guarantee you the racers know who wins. We aren't out there to amuse others or show off. We mostly know each other and race and BS,go back to camp at the end of the day and fix crap we broke, eat, drink and enjoy our day. Those are often times some of the mature veterans of the dunes.

Ya I shouldn't have assumed it was their new "big block" setup. It may be a cub. I was talking about their stock style triple ported cyls. If you have one of those $25-40 laser temp guns you can ck cyl temps right after a 300 ft run. Just like a plug chop shut it off immediately after the run and roll to a stop. If the side of the cyl right at the top doesn't get up to 100 degrees it'll be rich. At 100 degrees you are getting close on the powerjet.

I would go with the $599 vitos 392 kit. I WOULD NOT use these kits with a 4mil crank. They actually run worse with a 4 mil due to the exh port timing being too high it seems. All in all if you want a cheap set of cyls, pistons somewhat drag ported they are ok. If it were me I'd steer clear of it.

I have a perfect key and pod for an 03 I just haven't had time to put on ebay.

Its really not a HP thing its a heat thing. I always do .012. When you have a new bore the cylinder is rough and the rings are smoothing and mating their outer edge to the cylinder. This causes a LOT of heat in the rings thus the reason we start em up and turn em off a few times to not heat the rings up too much which causes them to expand and possibly closing the gap completely if their isn't enough gap. The ring will then press very hard on the bore and potentially catch or snag in the exh port. A larger bore has a longer ring that can expand more but its not really a HP thing. .008 is much tighter when the ring gets up to 900 degs.

If it uses a .060 base gasket forget what I said about using no gasket or a .005. I like Vitos as company for cables,sprockets etc but as an engine builder or designer I do not like em. If you can get more info like your squish clearance, compression ratio or at least dome size, or even measure the top of the exhaust port up to the top of the cyl. We can maybe help you with some calculations. Might start a new post if you do.I'd keep it in the drag section there's a lotta good help here.

if you just wanna peddle off the carbs cheap i use them on 50 and 90cc drag bikes I'd be interested.

I hope you get the bogg cured and it may be jetting but if you cant get it cured. There was a similar post about a bogging problems on atvdragracers about Vitos BB cyls when degreed out with a 4 mil crank the exhaust duration was stupid high like 205 or 208 degrees which can kill TQ. Vitos told him those numbers were fine but thats wrong IMO. If it were me I'd use either no base gasket or a real thin one like .005 and try it. Just make sure your squish clearance is .040 or so with tightening it up.

I would get something with good low,mid they all will add topend. A lot of guys like procircuits a bunch. Fmf fatties are good allaround pipes too.

I agree with the pilot 100% go down to a 48 or 45. Also your gearing is quite a bit too high for a second gear launch with what you have tire/motor etc. I'd run stock gearing 14/41 or even a little lower like 42/43 in the back. It will still run 70-80 mph in 5th with lower gearing.

If its hard to find stay on gas. Alky collects moisture and shelf life is less.

If the billet waterpump cover is nice I'll take it. Pm me paypal info and I'll try to get u before I go to the lake this weekend. Radar

We usually go that weekend cuz the kids are out of school thurs and friday. I usually have the wife and kids with me and we take the jeep to dune in too and to haul alky cans.

I've seen some really rich needles in some PWK's I believe were meant for dirtbikes. They needed really small mains. Those needles ended in "A"B" or "C" as the third letter and had really large pilots. I had a set of 35s with 135 mainjets when jetted right with "DDA" needles and 60 pilots. I swapped them for CEL needles, 48 pilots and 152 mains and it was much better off idle and midrange. It may not be lean with those if it has the wrong needles?? Just a thought.

You are on the high side of what most people run. 17+ 7 is 24 and most run there up to 17+9 which is 26. I'd try 7 over stock to start with( 24 ). 28 degrees is 11 over normal and a lot of motors will burn holes in pistons or burn up with that much. If you add timing remember to add a bunch of fuel. If I was goin to LS this weekend with ya'll I'd help ya. Radar

A stock flywheel/ plate setting of "0" is still firing about 17 degrees BTDC and usually we run 7 to 12 more than that. Each motor likes something different. Hope that helps. Radar

If a motor is cool and or rich they won't detonate as easily. That may explain why you have gotten away with it for now. Put more load on it like in sand or ride it harder or hotter and you might have problems. Domes are only about $70 or so I'd switch em. 1 sign of detonation will be pitting in the dome.

I was gonna say jetting at first but if you are tapped out in any gear and are turning as many rpms as that pipe and the porting will handle it is possible to get a funny sound after a second or so. If you hold in a gear too long after a second or so it will get rich from trying to overrev beyond the rpms the pipes timing will work with. You didn't say what speed this happens or your gearing but those pipes will probably turn 9000 rpms in any gear and then after a second or so of trying to go beyond that rpm it could start making a wierd burbling sound. Just a possibility. This would only be if you are screaming in 6th at top rpm/speed.

I'll be there. See ya guys tomorrow.

I agree with John. There's no reason to detune a cub. I like bikes with play ported cyls or even stock un ported cyls with a 4 mil crank for trails. Cubs just bogg and then hit real hard and its annoying trying to ride creeks , hills etc.

If any of the above fails take the clutch assy, hub etc and basket off and make sure you have everything turned right so each seats completely as you reassemble and make sure the washer's centered.

When they act like they die or just die after WOT and you let off the gas and let the fuel catch back up and then they act fine and start back up, that for me has been bowls running out of fuel, that can be a problem as you describe.

Pm sent but this is yer first post and you have 2 strikes against you, you have no location or pics.