RadarRacing

I can only imagine that men had ot much easier in life back 100 years ago when you could threaten the hell out of em and back it up when needed and I bet it wouldnt ever be needed cuz theyd shut the hell up when told to. Lol. Dude that story is dam funny.

Who gives a crap if M/M or any other shop buys cranks or components to build the cranks for $25 or 400 , they have to invest in parts and then assemble, weld, true the freakin thing. Thats not just 5 minutes of labor. The going price and market value for a new crank is $375 to 500 bux. Buy one from who you trust if the price is fair. Hotrods is NOT the gold standard of quality in the industry. Dont even get me started on the 250R wiseco crank that just failed after a few hours ride time.

Dibs on the air if you part em out. Price shipped to 68061. PM sent on air , PM sent on the ribs down the middle of the tire. I have smoothies and I want some ribs. Pm sent. pM sent, Pm sent,. Many many many pms sent on stupid questions.

I love CPI inframes too. For dragging theres no replacement for shearers but for a dune bike or heavier rider the CPIs get close and they are more forgiving on shifts.

Vitos wouildnt stand behind their failures I know of. Admittedly they did stand behind one that I know of that failed 2 days after it was bought but who the hell wants a crank failure right after you put it in. Andy at M/M which is now No Limit Powersports builds and trues his cranks himself. NO CONTEST.

Just like they said. 180 psi will need race gas. Going to 5000 feet may need a few jet sizes down.

Upp are good but they can break down over time and or tear causing leaks. They also dont space the carbs up keeping them off the clutch arm. Not a huge problem on a cub but even a regular bowl will rub the arm and stock cyls its worse. Billet bowls can be even worse. I have had both.

At 60 mph you are traveling 89.5 feet per second. Each 0.1 would be 8.9 feet lead. At 120 mph the 0.1 would be double that ....17.8 feet. Assuming a bike running a 6.1 is going around 100mph give or take a few mph either way the lead would be roughly 12 feet.... give or take a few feet.

There is no doubt there are some bikes that may be better lowend with the T5s but most will be better with the shearers. You could port a bike specifically like the T5s and not the shearers and some builders setups may not like em but many will. I had a motor a few years ago with T5s that made 79hp up top and had no lowend at all. They seem to like lower port timing or they will act like a drag pipe, they just wont have nearly as much topend.

IMO. Shearers should beat T5s everywhere on a dune port. Torque, hp and the entire curve will be better. If you overlay a dyno graph of the two pipes the line on the shearers will be higher than the toomeys all the way thru the graph.

Thats black. Remember that beer is good. Beer bottle brown colored ring is what we are lookin for.

They will do that if the pipe is holding too much heat. There is no shearer rdz pipe, its either shearers or rdzs. If I thought the pipe held too much heat I would add a lot more fuel and add a little timing as well regardless of how rich it seemed. You should be able to get 3 to 5 seconds of hard pull on a dyno.

That pic looks black as hell.

Fyi for you guys. Dannie was a notorious scammer. Do not respond to him by email EVER. Known scammer. Known as Dannie the NC village crook.

I just get somebody to push me a mph or so and click it in 1st gear. By the time you get on and off the gas a time or two in a gear or two it will free up. Sometimes they just stick. No biggie. It wont hurt to shift it a few times with no clutch.

Dont go by electrode color. Some fuels are grey, some are even bright yellow depending on the fuel. Look at the smoke ring down in the plug. Its the one yoy can NOT see unless you cut the plug. That will tell you what you need to do.

If you are set on doing it in Australia find a good 2 stroke Kart race builder or a builder that does 2 stroke GP cycle racing motors. Never would I consider porting off ebay. Might as well do it yourself.

One way or another it is running out of gas or overflowing if it was fine before the carb swap. Check fuel flow coming out of tank Check fuel flow thru carbs and make sure it will pour fuel out of you put the carb on with the line on the carb and no bowl. Check and set the float level with the carb upside down, the float should be even/level with the body of the carb. Make sure all fuel lines are not pinched.

Castor 927, Klotz Supertechniplate, Redline are the most popular oils. Do not use an oil that is not rated for alky. If you are new to alky you might aak for help from a local racer or duner that can explain the ins and outs of alky and care such as purging and keeping alky sealed.

21 or 22" 8 or 9 paddle extremes. I prefer the 21x12x8s on a build like that over the 22s cuz they are close to the same size and they are lighter.

Absolutely would recommend a serval too. More power everywhere.

DO NOT GET A CUB OR DRAG PORTED CYLINDERS , plain and simple. They do not make a bike more fun to ride on trails and mx period. Its not that they are too much of a good thing and a real man can control it. A pump gas cub will not have anything in the low and mid where you would want it. I would rather ride a stock unported 350 on a mx track than a cub. Talk to Kevin and just have him do what he recommends for you for the type of riding you wanna do. A good stock cylinder setup with good low and midrange will be very fun and an improvement in power eveeywhere over the stocker. Kevin is a good trustworthy guy and will do a kickass setup for ya.

The biggest thing you didnt include is swingarm length. If stock 20x10x8 8 paddle extremes/9 haulers or a 20x11x10 10 paddle and no more. If its a +4 then a 21x12x8 7 or 8 extreme/ hauler +6 a 21 or 22" 9 or 10 paddle hauler or extreme. Those are all assuming a 70- 80 hp bike that is a play/ occasional drag bike.

It works quite well in nitro cars at 20-32% and the other part of nitro fuel is methanol. Nitro has a tendency to fire before any spark in most other applications unless the engine is built for it. If I were wanting to play with it I think I would have very loose squish clearance and fairly low compression and not mix it with gas , only alky/ methanol. I know a few guys that used it a few years ago and they gave it up. Mostly due to engine failures and piston siezures.

Yes they are the same thing. A serval cub is a cub with slightly different port heigths and suited for a little lower operqting rpm. Same thing when ported. Which is faster a stock cylinder drag ported or a drag ported stock cyl? Same thing.