bbcmudtruck

I would but the pics aren't very good. He needs to take some pics with a camera and not his phone. Just pm him and I'm sure he will send you what he sent me.

Thanks anyways man, just picked up a set of PC's.

I don't know if I would drive 16hrs unless you plan on staying for three or four days. I would go down on a thursday so you get a good camping spot and drive back on a monday. Try to go on a somewhat busy weekend and you will have a blast.

Send me some pics of the T5s please. [email protected]

What about the thickness of the metal and the quality of chrome? Are the new ones as good as the ones I got?

Here you go. This may help you as well. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

I find it hilarious that your personality matches the picture!

I would also go with +2 arms. If your going to replace the front end why not? I ride trails and don't have any issues with +2 arms at all. Since your a bigger guy, you will probably need shocks built for you. Elkas are the cadilacs of shocks. Depending on how hard you ride, you may want the piggy back resis. If you decide to get the resis, be sure to get the compression adjustment on them. You could also try a set of 450 shocks and respring them for your weight. If your dead set on getting stock length arms, the 450 shocks would be close as is. As far as the rear goes, the only way to correctly spend your money is to fork out some $$$ for an Elka. I have spent nearly $350 on my rear stock shock trying to get it set where I want and I'm still not completely happy with it.

What kind of riding are you going to be doing? The -1 or -2 especially won't work for drag racing unless you have your bike lowered to the ground. Even then it still wants to come up, its controlable with the right suspension though. As far as a trial/mx bike goes I love it. Its deffinately a wheelie monster in the sand! Ask Jeff at FAST

The orings on your studs are probably leaking. Get a new oring kit and when you put the orings on, lube them up with vasaline. When you tighten the bolts down, use the same sequence you would with a stock head. Tighten them down a little at a time. For example tighten them all down to about 5lbs or snug, then retighten them all down a little snugger. Do not over tighten them as this will cause them to pinch and start leaking again, they do not need to be super tight. Use some vasaline on all of your orings, it will help them stay in play while you put it back together. Don't forget to get a bottle of coolant while your at the store!

I don't think this guy knows what hes got. I sent him a pm and asked how much he would end the auction for. He replied with $900. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150417760738&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

A couple of things come to mind. First being the TORS. Does it still have the tors system? If you still have the tors system, disconect it and see what you get. Next would be to check the pickup gap, it should be the thickness of a business card.

Just do it yourself. You can get the reaming tool at oriellys.

I don't know HP numbers but I'm running a FAST 4mil dune port with 35mm PWKs, Rockets, 180psi, +5 timing, and every other imaginable bolt on to go with it. I would guess somewhere around 70-75hp on a -1 swinger.

If your used to riding a 400ex then this spring is going to put a grin on your face even the doctor can't remove! Keep this in mind though. The banshee needs constant maintenance. By that I mean taking the time to tune it in properly and then keeping it there. You need to keep filters clean, fluids changed, carbs jetted and run a good premix.

The rear brake can be a real bastard to bleed off. I messed with mine quite a bit and what worked for me was taking the rear caliper off the bike and setting it on the ground. The lower you can get the caliper from the master the better. Then crack the bleeder and keep the master full. I just kept filling mine for an hour while I was working on something else. Obviously try to catch your fluid so that you don't waste it.

I'm looking for a set of mid pipes, maybe mid to top. IE fmf fatty gold series, t5s, pro circuits, pts. Let me know what you got accompanied by pictures! Good day

A shaved head or a cool head would be a nice addition to your bike. What do you have for suspension?

I agree, on dry ground that outlander will own you. My buddy has a thundercat 1000 and he destroys built 450s in a 300ft dirt drag!

Its about dam time

That stuff is going to wear out on you no matter what bike you have. At least its cheap and easy to fix on the banshee.

Can you even make a 10mil stock cylinder? I have seen 7mil stockers, but never a 10mil. Do you already have the 10mil crank or something?

They will be ok. The honda shocks aren't going to work though. The full flights are still made for a stock length shock even though they are +3. You may be able to some how stuff the honda shocks in there, but at full droop your hiems will be stressed due the fact your shocks are way to long. Instead of the shocks being the limiting factor in travel, your hiems will be. Make sense? Sell the honda shocks and buy yfz shocks.

I would sell your rad twin row to fund the round house swap. Stock swingers suck balls when it comes to adjustment and alignment issues. Quit fighting it and swap the parts you have. Call Jeff and see if he has any xring links for you, he sells chain by the foot.

Suspension needs to be upgraded for sure. Stock shocks under that kind of load are going to dissapear quick.