sleeper06

If you're plugs are black with those jets you're not burning fuel correctly. Ohm out all your electronics .

What fuel you running

Trying to get something to run rite with nothing that's rite never works out. 1- pressure test 2- ohm out all electrical components and check grounding 3- install the rite parts 4- fix the silencers Try again, there's a ton of things it can be . This is where an experienced mechanic earns his money. I always liked this saying."just cause you changed the part doesn't mean you fixed the problem "

No there supposed to be plugged. If you're talking top of carb infront of slide. Plug them or that's an air leak

A lot of D.C. Converted shees run a 200 watt stator. Like blowit stated , could be a faulty part , could be wired wrong to begin with. Battery could be funky also. What lights are you running. With all the cheap led technology out there now I can't see you having any problem with stock components

Displacement to hp definitely

If you don't know what your doing I don't recommend using a megger, you can zap yourself pretty easily. No need to go crazy a good multi is all you need.

Clean it up n look for breaks or cracks in the epoxy coating around the poles . Have you done an ohm test on it yet, if not do it. Source coil resistance between green n red 13.7-20.5 ohm at 68* , temps play a role in resistance

Normally the epoxy coating break down n moisture gets in there n reeks havoc

What are some good times. I know 300' but 500 I have no idea what guys are seeing

#1- only use oem head gasket #2- if you have access to a flat piece of granite tape sand paper to and sand the tops of cylinders and bottom of head, I use a three paper progression 100,220,400 finish. Sand in a figure 8 pattern and count revolution so you can evenly do both cylinders if you have no measuring equipment. #3 - during assembly slide cylinders on without tightening base nuts, then tighten all head bolts good n tight then do cylinder base nuts. Then torque head I use three bond 1211 instead of copper spray. I've used three bond in place of a gasket and it's held up so I think it will work just fine for your application. I'm also a firm believer in testing everything before tear down and after assembly. Make sure your allowing 24hrs cure time for any glues or sprays your using, if it's cold out it takes longer. If it's not fully set up it will get pulled/pushed out of crevices and seep leaving you with wasted labor

Stators most certainly burn up. Do an ohm test . A stator produces voltage. The components that use that voltage draw current on the wires , if the wound coils on the stator break down they can definitely smoke with the bike running and drawing amperage on the compromised coil wires.

Simple your friends mix = no damage to your engine

Mains don't control idle however those needles need to go. For stock motor n68a , ported jjh.

Use heat on old bearings,use a tapered punch or seperater until you get it in press or puller on it. Installing new ones , welding gloves and 10 thou on each side just the inner race, I use map gas . If you get that uncertain Pm me your cell number and I can send you a video of me doing it later. Keep in mind I have made tools to do crank work over the years

Pressure test it . Put a bigger pilot in it. . Pick up gap? Plug gap?any electrical deleted that maybe questionable. Pick up some spark testers at The auto parts store n put them in line

Put 260s in there, lean the needles all the way out and see if it revs . Once it does plug chop it. I've had 240s be perfect and also 260s depending on the bike. If you're climbing the hills you should chop and tune on the hill under load

Did you get a new torsion spring as well, if not they groove and make adjustments tough to get rite

A must with a new to you bike. Pressure test, compression test, electronic equipment test. Service manual to save yourself a lot of typing and headaches

Well shearers n stock jetting is no good for sure. Go 30 pilot, 300 mains and get some toomey needles . There's a starting point

Well motocross I like higher compression than dune riding so you could go somewhere in the middle 19-20cc . Driveline is a good option, he uses a good angle and band width compared to an off the shelf pro design dome

The poster was worried about timing from a dyna doing that . I've put some pretty ridiculous timing into these things with a curve maker and a plate just playing around. I've never snapped a rod

Any feedback?

Go up two sizes to a 310 and depending on where your air screws are at might need a bigger pilot

I can't even count how many times I've gotten bikes into the shop same mods with factory jetting (200) mains , and as they put it . It runs mint, super fast been this way for years. I don't have that kind of luck it would have burnt up on me before I got out my driveway . Anyway you're rite where it should be