sleeper06

I would say over the years at least 70% of the bikes that came in for jetting didn’t need jets at all. Mechanical n electric were always the culprit. I learned the hard way. Customer drops off bike for tuning, I start it warm it up get 30’ away from my door and the motor locked up. After i arguing for days I finally got out of him that the bike would shut it self off, so it must have needed jets. Now before I even throw a leg over something it gets, compression, pressure, electrical . Also got to go over chassis stuff, I’ve down right have had people’s shit fall apart and almost kill me. As always, it ran great before I got here .

I’m curious what the throats look like after that

Adjust the needle clip position before messing with pilot. Pu the clip all the way towards the taper side, if it gets worse move the clip all the way to blunt end. Do this first and report back. If it almost goes away we might be able to take care of it with the air screws

What’s the issue, it’s safe to do a plug chip where it’s at. If it’s an issue that just started happening it’s not the jetting

Yup, do you have ace hardware by you

Build a tester, super easy with shit from a hardware store, some people have a problem finding a low pressure gauge, I didn’t but some do. Don’t be that guy that burns down an engine by not doing the proper testing. At very least it’s piece of mind and a way to check every important gasket n seal, most importantly the previous owner craftsmanship

I’ve used threebond instead of locktite with good results. The sealer stays flexible which works well with vibration

I’m in Long Island rite by jones beach

The pickup missing doesn’t mean you can’t test the source and lighting coils.

I know of no one that has had them port anything. Everyone work is different and will pull different fuel. I’m very surprised the stock bore was able to be reused. I’ve had two that measured good in the past 6 yrs. The stock pistons are set up loose to cut down on idiots cold seizing there engines , with that they tend to get a lil out of round from wear . After straightening out the bore stock size pistons rarely work. If he just honed it you will have premature ring wear and failure

Where in ny, I would pressure test it for you, you do the prep work

Anyone with a welder should be able to do it. Look up pics for ideas an make a bracket to bolts to peg

That’s 1211 that someone used to seal the intake boot to the billet manifold, they just were not neat about it. As for you, time to make a pressure tester . Either your rad cap is letting coolant push out, or your burning it. Some simple tests will tell you a lot about the condition of your engine n seal

The 85 is a popular model for kids motorcross. I would look up a shop that does that mx work, they will know the in n out on that mot

Don’t get me wrong the tz is a nice bearing. I’ve put them in plenty of builds back in the day with zero issues. What you have to remember is somewhere along the lines people were looking for upgrades on bearings. Shops are gonna sell what customer wants. People call builders 100 times a day asking for 10 ball maxloads or tz style bearings. Just because they sell it doesn’t mean it’s right

Where did you get 18cc domes from. You might have pump gas domes for all you know. If that’s correct you have air Stryker carbs that jet different than regular pwk. If I were you I would pressure test that motor for piece of mind. Get us the letters off the needle

Nothing wrong with skf I’m just comfortable with koyo, every one has there own opinions. I’ve rebuilt a ton of cranks so my opinion is based off the many failures I’ve seen or soon to be failures

The owners name is Dave (973)857-6464. Pick his brain on bearings this is what he does. Tell him Carl from Long Island said to give a shout. He’s super quick on shipping depending on where your at it’s usually 1-2 days. I found him through dragging street bikes. He’s built multiple sets of hybrid ceramic bearings for me and he supplies a couple factory race teams. Make sure you let him know 8 ball koyo for banshee crank and you need him to supply orings. He also does full engine ceramic kits for a Shee if you are looking to squeeze every little bit of power out of it and have the coin to do so. Any questions pm me and I’ll give you my cell

Yes factory is 7 ball

If they ported the cylinders they should have a good idea where they are at

I’ve been having better luck with 8 ball koyo over tz even with straight cuts. 100s of asphalt passes with almost no runout. Every time someone brings me an engine for a winter go over I check all crank parameters. The tz shows more wear in almost every case. I have even tried the 10 ball maxload and I’m back at the 8 ball. They just flat out last

I use 8ball koyo across the board

Feel free to get back to me

Ok, what I would do is easy big changes. First make sure you want to leave the lid off and have proper filter adapter to do so. With lid off in summer use a 280 main. Leave the pilot for now if it idles strong. Put the air screws 1 turn out to start. Move the clip on the needle all the way to blunt end . Try it. If it gets worse go with the clip all the way at the taper end. Clip changes are easy n free

Do a compression test to check rings. If reed valves are not sealing correct you can get some blow by but it’s not usually exhaust. Maybe someone doesn’t know how to size pistons and rings aren’t sealing