sleeper06

I’ve used a set early on in my banshee addiction . They were very finicky and no one has info on them. After using keihin products I would never go back. It would be a waste of money for you to set up those carbs get 33-35mm pwk

My very good friend has a shop off straight path on Long Island. He’s a good kid and a straight shooter. He’s been around me forever in the banshee world and I’ll still be doing his port work. Anyone who’s interested pm me and I’ll get you the number.

As of now I’m taking anymore work on . My kids sports have taken over my life. My daughter is getting scouted for college and my sons not far behind. At this point in time I need to Nurture there talents no matter the sacrifice.

A stock cylinder 4 mil should walk all over them. Don’t forget a promod trans. Once you start making power they don’t like to shift. Then you should think about basket , inner/outer hub a good clutch. New eccentric screw n washer , clutch washer. Shift shaft if it’s loose on the claw end . These are some of the little things that will get you beat

The shaft gets grooved, bushing in case can wear or just a faulty seal or dirt in it

172 main,55 pilot ,4th clip

Hopefully you didn’t pay much

Sometimes people can over pilot a set up to compensate for a needle issue. If porting doesn’t agree with the pipes or is a lil off with what it takes in to what it puts out, you might not be able to make it happy. Don’t get hung up on what everyone else runs , give it what it it wants. I’ve seen 35 and bigger in stock carbs running crisp. Now that I see you have toomys call them and get a set of there needles. Oem needles were not designed for that large of a jet and don’t transition well . It’s too much too quick, every now n then I get lucky with the stock needle on the leanest clip but not often .

340 is definitely not big for a dune port. What pipes do you have.? Who did your porting? There’s a lot of variables once you change a port dimension. I would get needles that are meant for larger jets. You in fact might need a bigger pilot still . The area your describing is a diameter and taper issue

Have you tried a different needle like a toomey needle , . Sounds like a needle issue to me

Wouldn’t hurt to start bigger like JWR said. I’ve found the jjh needle works well on ported bikes and the n68a needle on stockish engines, the are the same taper and diameter but the length is different giving you the ability to reduce fuel at important transitions off the pilot circuit

See if you can get the Dyno screen showing rpm/tq

If you don’t wanna broadcast where you got dome pm me. Make sure you are doing squish test the proper way . What you’re looking for is a good taper . So tight to sleeve you should have a smaller measurement then toward the center of the bore . If you have a taper let me know. I see no reason you can’t play with the base gasket to get it in the sweet spot for your setup. Everyone has there own opinions on taper/velocity/squish .

Run a n68a needle in the middle to start. Check the carb boots really good for cracks n leaks. I would start with 45 pilot 145 main . Report back

Can you run of pipes for that kind of racing . Top end benefits with better torque

What carbs you running? Do you know any details on the domes?i will tell you there is a lot to be had in porting. These cylinders are all over the place with port dimensions. You will gain a ton by matching port areas from side to side,changing ex port shape/width. Now that you have an assembled baseline on your dome you could send them in for measurements and get a tighter set cut . What base gasket you running. A lot of the time I’ll get the dome cut tight and play with the base gasket to get it in the sweet spot . I will never steer anyone away from good fuel. IMO you can get alot more creative compression/timing and power output. Key on these motors is don’t go crazy on a cruiser

I’m a fan of digitron, the cart guys I deal with run them on everything and they seem to be more reliable than the TT

Single carb that small you might need a dek needle or eek . Any single carb engine the needle is the most important tuning piece. Not sure about a pj but on ported bikes I’ve seen mostly 42-45 pilot 195-210 mains with my porting

How did you sync the carbs, you could have a bad choke/idle knob letting too much fuel by. What needles you running since you’re problem seems to be in that realm

I was able to order straight lengths from Gary maybe matt would do the same. Assuming you have a bender

What fuel you running, it's more than borderline. Check your compression. See if you can see writing on piston tops so we can see bore size.

What kind of motor are you building

I use these as my cores n then throw good bearings across the board. I have them in motors mild to wild. As with anything I see a lot of different runout numbers crank to crank. It's worth the extra time n effort to get it checked and extra welds put on . Factory welds are just a lil more than tacks . For the money good deal. I'm just particular about bearings

Shame on you, you should be in shop. lol I hear ya

Sorry for repost. Something you might wanna look into is ease of operation of the arms, I've had a lot through here that were notchy and plain old not great . The reason I'm saying check mechanical operations is tricked hit the nail on the head . You shouldn't be running into those problems with your set up. Look into your pancake adjustment and length of center bolt, maybe it's not able to In guage fully. Just shooting out some ideas.