sleeper06

Those say dc on the description, you would have to run inline bridge rectifiers which are like 10-15 each . Look up just power semiconductor website and get 100 watt rectifier, they are nice little plug n play units

I’m looking for 7 mill cub cylinders that need plating or are blown up for a customer. Let me know what’s out there

Sooo , what locked up topend/crank/trans. You either need to buy all new parts or have the right equipment and knowledge to check all your parts

Transfer or boost port would be my guess if something went through. How does the decks of the cylinders look? What steps and prep did you do for glue to stick and most importantly how long did you let it set up before pushing air in. If sealant isn’t 100% cured it will push out very easily under pressure

One jet size for every 3000’ above sea level. When you get there drop to a 280 and play with needle and air screws till it’s good. Obviously bring a cpl jet sizes to cover your ass

35s definitely not to big, my stock cylinder 4 mill ran 39s bored to 40s and loved every bit of it. That main sounds lean too me on a drag port. Where is your needle set at? Most run the cel needle in that set up , the cgl is a leaner needle only length wise. I would definitely pressure test that motor to rule out an air leak. If you’re spitting fuel out your exhaust two things can happen, either your reeds are loosing tension or your electronic are suspect. I would start by ohm out your plug caps then move down the line . IMO you’re lean on jetting but the electronic problem is stopping you from burning the engine down .

My educated guess is crank seals or gaskets had an air leak and that’s what fried the other top end . So before you blow a new top end do th proper testing. Does it have the oil block off for the injection

Being that it’s stock these tests can give a Lil insight into the condition of the top end and engine seas/gasket

Do a compression test and a pressure test and report back

My advice is wait till you have the money to do everything at once internal wise. There is a ton of little things that make a reliable build. Opening up something that’s never been touched is a domino effect waiting to happen. The key part is knowing what to look for wear wise on the internal components, could make or break the budget. Get it out of your head thinking your gonna piece it together or that’s what it will be” a piece “! Remember you can go broke saving money .

$350 to tear it down and put it back together running?

Here’s an idea, call CPI and get new ones. No packing, no polishing, no fuss. I just put a set on a customer bike and used threebond 1211 to seal between stingers n silencer

I’m a dealer for wsm which deals with a lot of Athena stuff, in the right hands not terrible but for close to the same money you can do driveline set , again IMO you get better quality nikasil ,pistons,domes. I’ve had those kits last 10 yrs also had 6 months and nikasil was chipping .

Cool , as long as you get her running

Lol , I have a guy by me that is getting all my customers lately. It’s a hike for you tho . I pick n choose my battles now, he is young and hungry. If you end up needing someone I can hook you up with him. He’s been working on a ton of shees lately and I’m in his shop 2-3 days a week

i just installed a set last night, are you sure your top arms are facing the correct way. Definitely take pics of stopper when it’s clocked all the way. Take pics of top arm

I hate when people don’t post results

Lol 3 weeks isn’t bad at all, especially if you’re not the only bike in the shop. CDI very rarely go bad. #1- pressure test #2- compression test #3- electrical systems check Any good shop would perform these three basic tests and share results. If he’s as good as you say I would chill on the 3 weeks thing. A thorough check takes quite a bit of time. Pipes,air box , filters, carbs all gotta be disassembled to perform tests . Depending on his work load he might not be fucking you , just doing work as it came in

Blind bearing puller, I take them out all the time and there still useable

I’ve had to drill some that were really bad. Soooooo has the op tried anything, did you fix problem

There could be something stuck in the pilot circuit, you would be surprised how many I see like that with same symptoms. My carb cleaning kit came with a needle like reamer . I send it in every pathway, even in the cylinder side throat, tiny hole in front of slide . Sucking air through carb top rubber gasket .

Lol

Are you using a direct drive cover? If so use the stock pump. There are a few reasons to do so. If I’m not mistaken the shaft and impeller can separate. You might be able to space the two apart. Before anything is done make sure the seal n bearing are pressed in 100% or it will cause issue your having

Sorry I was eating chips. On a real note sully you should run a fulsboar dual chamber tank. They make two options, one you have to change the ice out frequently. The other has a built in ice machine for trail/dune machines

Definitely wanna see a pic, can you spin the Pringle to help in any way. Cascade used to have nice heat wrap