BellicoseBanshee

They are easy to install, hardest part is removing the flywheel, which is easy too with the right tools. If you do not have one, order a flywheel puller. And an impact is a good way to get the flywheel nut off, if you have access to one. Install the new plate exactly as the old one using the seem in the cases to set the timing to +4 on the plate's graduated scale. Not hard to do at all. The plate should come with instructions as well. BTW: Check your intakes for cracks where the boost bottle sits... Boost bottle =

Raised damage to the cylinder mating surfaces will definately keep the head from sealing correctly. Good find... :thumbsup:

Yes, you can bypass the 'electrical' portion of the system and still use the 'mechanical' portion of the system. Unplug the carb switches, the throttle switch, and the control unit switch and the electrical portion will be bypassed. Then put the control unit in your bench vise and give it a little 'love' and turn it into a pancake.

Yes, turn the carbs upside down.

I ride in the dunes during the summer when it is more than 100 degrees, and it works like a charm. I have ridden in all conditions: sub-freezing (ice racing , high humidity, low humidity, snow, rain, mud, sand, desert, high temperatures (100+), mountains, sea level... Give it a try and I bet you will be pleasently surprised. :cool: BTW: The cotton sock should be very thin, not a regular athletic cotton sock, and the wool sock should be about as thick as a normal athletic sock. I was not very clear before, maybe that is why you are skeptical... :ermm: I also use that combination whenever I wear any type of boot or thick shoe (such as a hiking shoe) and blisters are never a problem as well.

I agree, the steering stem loop is probably bent into the tank... :ermm:

$300.00 a month is a reason for anyone to quit smoking. I knew cigarettes were expensive, but wow, that is a lot of money. :ohmy:

It is enough for me to notice...

The whole engine sits left of center in the frame... EDIT: if you have an airbox, chances are you have stock carbs. Many places sell the 'banshee' pod kit: two filters, two outerwears, and a water bottle relocator bracket (if you choose to still use one).

Clamp on filters will work, as long as you choose the correct size for the carburetor application. :thumbsup: I prefer K&N filters w/outerwears.

Is it surface rust, or is the chrome finish pitted? Buy some fine steel wool #000, spray the rust with some kind of penetrating oil, and gently scrub the rust off. You will be surprised how well they may look if the chrome is not too bad.

I bet the rivets holding the stock basket to the gear are worn a little.

NYUK might be able to help you out with an engine. Send him a PM.

Wear a thin cotton sock under a not as thin wool sock and your feet will be much better all the way around. The wool helps keep the moisture away from the cotton socks and your feet. And yes, do it year round (even in the middle of the day in the middle of the summer). Your feet will thank you.

Yes, just the oil. :thumbsup:

Measure from the bowl mating surface without the gasket to the top of the float when the float is contacting the fuel valve needle without compressing it (if it sounds confusing, it really isn't once you start messing with the float a little). You may have you rock the carb back and forth a little to figure out when the float contacts and when it compresses the needle. Increasing float height decreases fuel level and decreasing float height incresing fuel level. It can be a pain to do sometimes.

He is talking about the neutral switch cover... meanv10, if your plastic one is cracked too much, it may be leaking. If it is, buy one of these: billet aluminum neutral switch cover and o-ring. :thumbsup: The countershaft seal behind the sprocket may be leaking as well or instead of the neutral switch cover.

Could not have said it better myself.

I know a guy that 'upgraded' to the 404 monoblock, and it definately 'downgraded' his performance. Now to be fair, he had one hell of a stock cylinder setup, and the bike ripped. He was not impressed with the 404, and the guys riding the dunes that weekend were not impressed either. Maybe is was not setup correctly, jetted correctly, or something else, but he went from really quick to just quick with his 404. With the cub as an alternative, I would not choose to use the 404.

Just unplug the switch from the harness (connection is typically between the fuel tank and the radiator), and then buy a new clutch perch to eliminate all the parking brake nonsense. Cover the wire harness end of the plug to help keep the connector ends from corroding.

Billet basket. Click > :smile: < for a 'how to' written by theshee.

This is what you need and how to do it. Click > :smile:

This method works very well, especially with aftermaket clutch components. :thumbsup:

Maybe I am old school, but I don't think you can beat Pro-Wedge II tires in the snow. They work pretty good on the ice too, but once you go studded on the ice, nothing else compares. Run them reverse direction on nice groomed trails, and it will rip. AMS (?) makes a copy called the Zipper and I believe they are much cheaper than the real McCoy.

I usually do mine one cylinder at a time! I know, I have a strange sense of humor...