RagunCajun

It add's something new. I like it. I wouldnt mind some like 50+ good ones in a rotation. that way it's always something new. I know a lot of people check the boards several times a day. Please make sure all future ones are work safe.

took me a couple weeks to get mine. free bump for some pipes i know you will love!

Since it's in the wanted section, i would say he is looking to buy.

Motion pro makes cheap levers for less than 10$. There are also other brands who do it in black. Or paint whatever ones you have. I perfer ASV refurbs off ebay. Sometimes you can get them for less than $20+ shipping. Just gotta hope no one out bids you. Works for me after enough trying. :biggrin:

My bike did fine with just bolt ones for trails. Even when i was ported with t5's. I always ran 2 carbs and always will. There's enough low end there with the RIGHT port work. I've ridden bikes with port work and i much favored mine due to it being more smooth and crisp. With that said, id recommend suspension. What's the point of all this low end power mods if the bike wears you out in a hour's time.

+2.

If anyone has some Banshee headlight covers for sale for a good price, the ones that are eyes. Please shoot me a priced shipped to 70394. I do NOT want the bloodshot ones. Please include pictures. Thanks. I think some headlights differ in thickness so mines a 2001 if that matters.

reeds are for better throttle response, not power for the most part. A more crisp throttle is always nice though. I wouldnt run race fuel in a trail bike. Just get your stock head milled for premium pump gas as mentioned above. I am against 2-1 carb set ups. It's expensive and you can do so much more with that cash.

I went with a Vito's impeller because the other brand RJATV.com had was about twice the price.

I had the same problem yesterday. Once cylinder was failing. Turned out to be a fuel problem. Make sure your "T"-fitting on the gas line coming from the petcock is level. You dont want one cylinder starving for fuel.

IMO Elka is overboard for the average playbike. What about some cheaper Works shocks?

pfft leave those DG's on and beat the hell out of the bike. Enjoy it man!

Make sure your clutch is adjusted and bike is properly jetting. I was ported and i ran HD springs on a stock clutch and i was fine. I beat the hell out of my bike too. I used to dump it all day long trying to ride wheelies too. Please make sure you entire bike is set up right before you go bolt on some power. That wont help you if you cant set up a bike right. I know it's frustrating but it pays off.

What kind of crank did you go with. Looks like my hotrods 4 mil i just installed.

I bought a N-down 1-5 dunable. Guy told me you just cant backload it above 8k. So that's a yes. I havent tried it out yet, but it should be done within a week if my damn parts come in from mrcycles.com

wow 10 lengths......interesting.

On page 6, wtf a big tach on a cobra? different strokes for different folks i guess. Here's my turd. The motor is blown. Going with a fully built longblock from MMR once work picks back up.

I ran cpi's for a while and plugs arent hard to get to. And i putt around a good bit sometimes and never foul plugs.

i had an 01yz125. That sucker hauled ass. But i wanted more power so i bought a yz250 :biggrin:

That's what im building. It being a 4mil doesnt mean it's not good for a playbike. Drag porting, stretching a bike etc makes for a shitty play bike imo. 4mil just mean's it has a stroker crank. It can still have a beautiful all around port job and all around pipes.

I like the slingshots due to be able to go with the stealth look. I might get one. I doubt my clutch will last long once my bike gets some use.

CPI's all the way. With high end pipes like CPI's and Shearers, if you decide you dont like them, you can always get most of you money back or trade them for t5's. Comparing my CPI's to my old t5's, my powerband came on slightly later with CPI's but the CPI's pull more harder and longer than t5's. BTW my juggs were ported for t5' and for my riding style. My current 4mil has been ported for CPI's and other things :biggrin:

Im in the middle of a 4mil build. I'm almost done. I went with CPI's. I had my cylinders ported so it works best with my over all mods, riding etc. I didnt settle for a generic dune. trail or play port etc. You should talk to whoever ported your cylinders to see which pipes performs best with that you have in mind. IMO that's your best bet.

I dont remove my water pump. Never had a problem. Order yourself a Clymer manual. It's around $30. The Clymer manual will show you how to do anything to the bike step by step with pictures. And a new clutch is around $50. Price it where ever you buy parts at and then add the cost of the clymer. Then add a few bucks for coolant and tranny oil and that is how much it will cost you. Pick up a spare clutch cover gasket just incase you rip yours. Add that to the cost too.

If you dont know what to do, we cant help you. You need to figure out if you want to save money and build your engine yourself or pay somebody to. I am in the process of doing my 4mil build. I just finished my bottom end today and sealed the cases. It's not hard at all. You can use a clymer manual and it says how to step by step with pictures. I dont care for others doing my work no matter how good they are. I like the idea of noone every working on my bike but me. Plus im cheap!