RagunCajun

A good way to check electrical components is to barrow a buddy's and try it. That's what i do since i dont have an special testers like my Clymer calls for. It might be as simple as a bad ground or broken wire. Check your gap on the pickup(i think it's called that) by the flywheel. Should be around .018-.024 i think. Correct me if im wrong. But before that do the usual, compression test, clean carbs, sync etc. That way you kinda rule out a fuel problem. Yeah it's tedious but gotta get her done. Last year i had my bike fire all of sync but it was due to a cracked flywheel. But that's easy to spot.

450cc's or 350. Either wont run worth a damn if the owner doesnt know what he is doing.

You're welcome. Your spring on the shift shaft might also be loose/old. That could cause issues as well. Also maybe worn forks. I dont know the symptoms of worn or bad shift forks so i cant help there. Perhaps someone else can chime in or a search could answer that. When i put my override in, i put all new forks to be on the safe side. But set that eccentric screw properly and see if she shifts ok. You also need to make sure your clutch is set right too. The clutch not fully releasing can cause the bike not wanting to shift well. While you are in there put a pancake bearing if you dont have one.

Not too sure but if the eccentric screw is adjusted correctly and shift forks arent worn, the bike does not need that mod. It should shift into gear before the shifter is all the way up. I guess if the spring is worn or not adjust perfectly it allows more travel so it gives the shift star more force to turn. But im not sure on that. I've got and override so i no longer worry about that As for not rounding off the shift star, how come when you buy aftermarket ones, they are all rounded?

Yuo, now i've think i've seen it all. :shoothead: and +1 on vitos. Their service and customer tech help lines are very nice!

Bought them separately. There's no reason you need a banshee kit. Just get two of the same carbs, a throttle cable if needed, pod filters(unless your filters will fit) and extra jets(pilots/mains). My carbs had stock jets in them and they were WAY off. If ida ran them as is, they would of destroyed my engine in a jiffy. I got my carbs from the for sale section here. Then i called up FAST for a throttle cable and tons of extra jets. Took me two ordered worth of jets to figure out which ones i needed but oh well.

Those tiny pics on the FAQ are kinda hard to see. When i do a plug chop, i cut the whole thing off.

I have a set of 30okos. So far they work great. Only had them a couple weeks and i maybe put 1.5 hours on the bike.

+1. I welded mine a week ago. Had to end up splitting the cases to get it out. Only way to check is to tear it down and see. Good luck with that bud! You can tip the bike over on the flywheel side(shifter side) to save the tranny oil. You needa drain your coolant still though.

+1. Im running 30 oko's because that's what my builder recommended. Runs like a bat outa hell. On that note, it was crazy fast with stock carbs as well. It was a good testament to all the people saying you need bigger carbs.

You can only answer that. You need to inspect the internals and see what if anything is damaged. Get wrenching buddy! :biggrin:

IMO shearers are garbage for trail riding. The power band comes on way too late. CPI's ftw.

mines wired differently. One is grounded and one is soldered to the orange wire from the coil. Exactly how the instructions say to. Works fine. I tried to wire it into the OEM kill switch at first, but it didnt work at all.

yup that's exactly what it does.

Anyone know what's tolerance Hot Rod's uses for truing their cranks? Is it .001"-.005" like some OEM companies. I hope the biggest they allow is .001".

Shearers come on way too late for my taste. I find CPI's pull hard on top but not as hard as shearers but the CPIs are more forgiving due to more midrange. I'd suggest riding a bike with shearers before spending the money. You could always sell them if you dont like them though.

I would have to drill the hex out of that slingshot in the middle of 3 and 4 and not use that #4 washer. But Vito's left me a voicemail and told me their thrust bearing kit will work and solve the problem w/o modifying anything. It looks identical to cascade's so i ordered one a few mins ago. Thanks to everyone who looked! I cant wait to beat the hell out of this bike next week when she is all done

taken from another forum i posted on. I will post here as well. Perhaps someone here has delt with this. http://forums.atvdragracers.com/index.php?...amp;#entry41724 please refer to the picture below with numbered parts to help me and other understand what you are talking about. I will do the same because im not sure of the exact names of certain parts. Thanks. The picture is all parts apart but are layed out how i assembled them in order. http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/slings...e5%205-7-09.JPG Ok guys, ill try to make it short and sweet. I welded my ball to the rod a couple weeks ago. Stupid me goes put the same damage ball and pushrod back in there but i added a pancake bearing. Fast forward to a few days and the push rod gets welded to the clutch actuator. So i had to split the cases and get it out. Fast forward to about an hour ago. I seen why my pancake bearing didnt work. It's suppose to spin freely and it doesnt spin at all. It has a very strong bind on it when assembled. When i tighten the nut(5), the whole assembly doesnt spin at all. It creates a bind. I understand maybe i can not tighten it down as much but how would i be able to adjust it right and keep it from backing out? These are pictures of it assembled. http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/slings...e1%205-7-09.JPG http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/slings...e2%205-7-09.JPG I got the cheap pancake bearing with just the pancake bearing and the washer(3) . I had it installed w/o the washer(3). But now i see it doesnt make a difference as far as i could tell. I know cascade makes a set up for $45ish but what i have should work. The only reason that it wouldnt is because maybe i have a lockup. Can someone tell me what i am doing wrong? I can put it all back together like this but w/o that pancake bearing doing it's job, i will be back to welded things together. I do have an override so this is something i need. On a side note, it's a pain in the butt to have to keep flipping the bike on it's side. Damn slingshot works like a charm but i never thought about having to keep flipping it on it's side everytime i wanna take the plate off.

Yeah i went from t5's to cpi's on a ported stock jugg engine. It must of been a ridiculous difference for you since you choked that motor up with those damn FMF's lol. Drag cylinders need drag pipes!!!

Ah yes sand. Something i've never ridden in . Nevermind what i said then. Sorry. one day....ill get to ride in sand.

You have an override in that thing? Reason i asked is i do and i find with 15/41 5th gear isnt fast enough in a drag race. But if i put pro wedges on my bike, it's more than enough. Which is good cuz my n-down 1-5 dunable doesnt have 6th. I gotta be pushing noticeably less power than you so i dont think you'd have trouble pulling that at all. If you do, you have issues imo. What type of riding/racing you will are going to do?

A few bikes is huge in a drag race. But w/o even witnessing it, i would have to look more at the set up of each bike. I dont have either guys' port work or have seen their work. But drag racing has lot's to do with setup. The difference could be override, gearing, tires, swinger, suspension etc. Maybe the mighty cub spun it's ass off and could hook. Or maybe his engine and/or bike wasnt set up. Or maybe you have one hell of a engine/bike set up. Really the only way you can test the other guys engines is put them on a dyno but it's the setup that wins races.

i hear nothing but noobs go chat in the HQ chat room anyways...

Hell i thought it was more work than that. Hardest part for some is getting an indicator. BTW if you dont have one. Get a cheap ~$15 one made in china. Magnetic bases are about $10.

IMO "trail worthy-ness" is decided by the power delivery not displacement.