RagunCajun

Stock carbs are fine and often underestimated. The problem was you.

Shift shaft mod is grinding a little off so it has more "throw" I got tired of the bad shifting and missing gears. I love my n-down 1-5 dunable

Put an add on boats bikes and rv's I think the magazine is called. I have had good success with that and craigs list both buying and selling. And I am selling a 02 yz250 if u are willing to trade or trade plus cash.

Just got my stuff from banshee111 today. Stuff was in great shape and shipping was fast and it was shipped how it was discussed in pm. Packaging was great too. Free bump for a good seller!

If it's not the TORS(just unplug it) then its the idle screws not being set right. I doubt all of sudden anything else got clogged etc while removing the TORS.

If you ride trails or something like that i would do suspension first. More power is nice but if it beats your body up, then it isnt as fun to ride.

that made me lol! Dont give up buddy!

Only thing i dont like about a supercharger is it takes power to turn it from the engine. Also as it compresses the air, it becomes hotter. But no lag from a supercharger is awesome. Great for playing around. As mentioned there are ways to spool up a turbo before launching. 2 step, spray it etc. An intercooler can help that but intercooled turbo inlet temps will be cooler than roots or twin screw supercharger inlet temps imo. Although spraying a small shot of nitrous before the blower will cool inlet temps A LOT, And all of that adds weight and can mean a difference, more difficult class to race. Nitrous and forced induction are both power adders

Glad to hear. Was I right by any chance? I hope I didn't steer you in the wrong direction.

Who ported your juggs?

Head work, nice cam, full exhaust, 100 shot and a 3000 stall would wake that little hemi up. Just sayin

If you decide to do $50 shipped for cascade pump cover and cover insert, send mr paypal info. Also allow me 24 hours to pay. I work nights. 85 shipped for red gas tank cap and red dip stick. That's with the above added to it.

Double post*

Yes. But give Jeff a call so he can explain it easier.

I'm over in Raceland. I go to the spillway very seldom.

You mean .01 right?

You from down here?

Enjoy riding it

The arrows are for all stock stuff. You throw in a pancake bear or fibers/steels that aren't the same thickness and the arrows might not work. I get almost all the slack out of my line the. I screw the adjuster all the way in then back it out about a 1/8 turn to give it some play. I made a video last year but it doesn't show internally how to adjust it. Just shows the top of the case and how to set the freeway on the clutch lever. If you are screwing the Phillips adjuster all the way in your bike will creep. You have to back it up around 1/8turn or a little more So it has some play. Otherwise shee will creep.

When I stroked mine I was told it would smooth out the hit and it did.

I'd rock your current pipes. A good deal on used CPIs come up on here once and a while. You can always make Couple hundred off a set of pipes here.

If it's bracket racing I would do a override(duneable n-down 1-5). One reason, consistency. Think of it As an automatic in a car. Never miss a shift. Most of the quickest drag vehicles run an auto

Isn't the OKO carbs a copy of PWK? If so check the float height! Mine gave me a problem like that. As said drill the tank cap, check pingle screen. You can also drill extra holes before the float needle seats if its like my OKO carbs.

I play around, ride trails, putt around, wheelies, donuts and a little drag racing. Runs like A champ. Before I ran t5's and CPIs only come on a tad later and its not noticeable after a little seat time. The top end pull is nuts.

Good luck. I know splitting cases Is never something we look forward to