yamaha04

im still rideing the shock shocks with +2 arms it sits alittle lower when the shocks arnt fully turn to there stiffest position. i just keep them stiff and ride. so far 2 summers and still going strong. i only weight 165lbs so its not to bad. i accually like they softer ride. . i did buy some works dual rates with rezzys but got ripped because they leaked oil as soon as i put them on. Damn ebay lol this is with them on theres softest setting. would not suggest rideing like this way to low and soft this is with no motor in frame. i guess i dont have any pics of them with the shocks on there stiffest setting

yeah i cant remember the years when they used the 3 cylinder high idle . 3 cylinder high idle sounds not very good lol but does work i hear, i should of taken a video of our ford 6.0l starting at work without being plugged in. OMG it sounded like bolts in a paint can then put into a paint shaker . tell me they don't all sound like that. terrible injector knock

its not a 3cylinder high idle. common rails don't do that. that's the older gen thing , but i think bansh- eman has got it right

thats good but still kinda shitty if they wont give you back the 100 for the awrrenty they should atleast carry the rest of the warrenty over onto your new ps3. knock on wood all my friends have had there xboxs go down a # of times and mine still running strong. and its even an older xbox they are more common to die

yeah i got the cruise high idle but this one is different. the truck will idle up after about 2 mins of idleing when cold and it will idle at around 900rpm. when colder it will idle around 1000 and when i use the cruise it idles at 1000rpm then i can accl it right up to 1500 like you said. i think its just the harmonics of everything at 900 rpm that makes it do it. i know its not my injector because i just had them tested, thruck is 100% stock no programmer although i bet people out pay for a lope tune on a common rail cummins lol i had a post on Cumminsfourm.com and there was alot of replies saying they had the same thing. ????? so who knows some people say its normal some people say it not. i personally thing there is two different high idles one that the ecm turns on by itself when cold and the PTo type high idle that you can use with the cruise. because when i use the cruise while my truck is loping the idle will smooth right out.

hey guys took a video of my truck going into high idle when cold. it lopes pretty good and sounds awsome when the temp is around -2 to -8c anything cloder and it idles smooth at 1000rpm when in high idle mode.

what are you looking for. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/home.do

been reading a few post lately on forged pistons and machined there are different tolerances when boring by the sounds of it. where do you find these specs and also can you check piston the cylinder gap with some feeler gauges? what pistons last the longest. historically ? i know they can all fail but

what size you guys running on the stock rims

oh no man 30 acres and now you have to sell your bike. can you not whore yourself , wife. jk man i know how you feel i had to sell my first banshee to get a truck so i could work when i was half way through high school. a banshee was my dream bike. it as all i ever wanted. so after a few year i got another. its a hard step but seems its very hard for banshee owners for some reason. i have buddies that go through quads like crazy. i could never sell my bike again.

well you should be able to tell if the srings are weak just by putting them on. my stock springs are a bitch i can hardly get them on they are so tight. my t5's fit perfect. ???? take some pics and post them up maybe you got somthing wrong but its prett straight forward

just looking for something to replace the balloon looking stockers i have been rocking for the past 5 years lol i ride mostly trails, and some loose gravel /sand when im in old pits. would like something a little more low profile not so big maybe more squared off . name some tires and i will have a look thanks alot guys. oh yeah also size. i got some 10" rims on the back and love to look of the low sidewall with a 20" tire. would like to continue this look on to the front.

you might have the fourm set to lo- fi i was having a prblem with the siteafter not being on for about a year made a post and a guy told me how to fix it. down at the very bottom ov this page there is a drop down menu bottom left corner, its beside the drop down bar that says English USA. make sure its set to Banheehq-Carbon not ip.board or ip board lo-fi

i think 290,s would be good thats what i run with t5s. i ran stock gearing and had to move up a tooth on the front sprocket because it would just rev out. if your jetting doesnt fix it i would say theres another problem

i only ride sand once a year when i drive to the dunes the rest of the time im on shitty trails and in abandon gravel pits. iv never been hit with anything other then water. the front tires dont really grab any rocks,

would the klunk be the motor just kicking back when it dies and the non start be a jetting issue. if it backfires i would think jetting if it ran good before the pipe

personally i don't like K&N like said before hold it up to a light. just get a foam filter and be done with it. i own a diesel. 06 cummins. you should never use an oiled filter on a turbo-ed motor. the turbo will suck the oil right out of it and through the turbo. not good. i know owr banshees dont have turbos but there still alot of suction coming from the carbs. atleast with the foam filter you only oil the first layer. i have personally seen a bike get choked out with sand in the carb within 5 mins in the dunes he was running a K&N pods oiled with outerwears. i dont want to start a pissing match but this is just what i have experienced and is my opinion

well its not my kicker because i rebuilt it as soon as it started rattling. the clutch basket and gear could be it. i can turn the gear until it hits the rubber cushions but it take quite a bit of force. so , not sure how i would tell if it was Bad. the water pump im going to replace with a pro design, also replace the bearing but it does feel smooth when turning it by hand. other then that i have no idea. i once though wrist pins and bearing but the rattle has been there through 2 rebuilds so that cant be. im sure the idler gear has alot to do with it and the bushing be wore out then finally after me tearing it down to find the problem the cir clip has gotten bad and let go. also the back of my clutch basket shows some signs of the idler hitting it. the 4 rivets that hold the gear on are wore alittle. so that had to be making noise when the idler hit the basket. as far as all my gear teeth go i cant really see anything that looks bad. i know that clip to a ride through my water pump gear because i had 3 broken teeth on it but its plastic so i think the clip also to a ride through one of the others because as you can see in the pic its not all there. im ordering the part soon so i will know shortly what it was lol or maybe not. maybe it will still be there.

lol damit im going to replace it . lol please dont tell me i wasted 2 bores and money on a crank trying to and fix a noise everyone has lol

iv always herd not to run a K&N because they dont filter small enough fine sand and dift can pass right through. alot of people run foam pod filters. oiled. i though the outwear was supose to help but i guess not.

[ i found a video on youtube of what the knock sounded like. i should have taken a video of my actual bike before i tore it down but forgot. ok mine sounds like this but not as loud of a rattle. do you still think its my idler. im going to replace the bushing regard less but anything else to look for?

well heres a video of the idle gear bushing play. if this idler is supose to be tight i think my bushing is F@#$ed. this was taken without the Cir clip and washer but still think there to much play. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mfk0WBb5BQM

lol i did not realize the clips where only supose to be used once. makes sence. but anyway if that my problem it will be and easy fix although i have my douts as i have had it apart and together about 3 different times over the past 2 years with the same knock and know the clip and washer was intact the last time. but never to less its my best option. man i love BHQ someone always has an answer

i looked at the water pump im going to repalce it and get a billet one and new bearing to elimenat that problem one thing i did find that i dont think had to do with my knock because like i said i have had it apart many times and never found anything but this time i found this. its # 11 and 10 in the exploded view on this site. looks like it has taken a few runs through the gears. http://www.yamahaoftroy.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=49012&category=ATVs&make=YAMAHA&year=2004&fveh=1204

[it also knocks in neutral so is there anything on the tanks side that spins when in neutral.