chevy7398

anyone got the basket with the gear, i can get the rest at the dealership, just need the basket with the gear, thanks

thanks nyuk, i saw that earlyer as well but i have no way to switch the gears before this weekend and by basket got good groove chewed around the outside from all the carnage as well, kinda a timebomb to keep runnun it that way

sent ya a pm! thank you so much i am forever geartfull

hey guys i need a clutch basket with the gear on it and a primary drive gear ASAP, will pay with paypal instantly and will pay for quick shiping. also if anyons got the bolt with the locknut and lock ring that the shift shaft spring rides on i need those to but there a couple bucks from the dealer. also the plastic drive gear for the water pump, its only 10 bucks at the dealer but maybe one of ya all got one of those too. thanks again

my -1 lonestar swinger has aquare tubing

single carb set up, it gives you some more low end grunt

yep what he said , send them back to elka

ok guys whoever lives in NC and wants to come give me a quick kick in the butt so i dont forget to MAKE SURE I PUT THE SLIDES IN THE RIGHT CARBS again. 5 hours work for a 30 sec fix, man i feel smart now

ok last thursday went to track to practice and about 5 laps in my throttle cable broke, she was and has always ran perfect, loaded her in the truck and came home. yesterday my new cable got here and i put it on today after work, i started it up and now my right hand cylinder is only firing once in about 15 20 sec and the left is smoking its ass off. the motor was totally rebuilt ( new crank, all seals and gaskets, top end, head , new vf3s, clutch ext..) and has ran like a top every weekend for about 4 5 months now. i have changed plugs, cleaned carbs twice, checked the reeds, cut my coil wires back a bit, switched plug wires back and forth, pulled my pipe off to see if there was oil in it due to cranks seal and still nothing. it is still doing the same thing and i cant figure it out, and yes the tors is long gone. everything is in right and been checked and checked and checked again. the first race of the season is sunday and i dont know what the problem with it anyone got any ideas, the tranny fluid is still full and as i said last time she was ran it ran perfect, this is the first problem ive had since i rebuilt her and it has appeared out of thim air, i also drained the gas and put new in PLEASE HELP!!!!

yep you sure need longer studs for the pro design

youll be needen some high octane high dollar fuel to run that high of compression, i run 108 octane and its 5.25 a gallon and if your going that low you better be runnin higher than 108

your main jets have nothing to do with the bike starting and idling

we may be there we may not, first race of the fall series is the following weekend , but i want to get out and do some trail riding if possible cause thats the last wekend till dec ill be able to get out there due to racin

wow i cant belive i forgot all about stickers, i got some i havent even put on yet, ok do you have to rejet for the fmf stickers or not i dont want to hurt anything. and what are the best placment for elka stickers when ring mx?

ya just sell that boost bottle on ebay, it dont do anything, take the money and put it towards a new pink powerband and hang on!

porting, reeds, carbs, filters

im runnin the forged power pistons, so far no complaints here

boost bottle does nothing so 40 bucks timing key is not the way to go 10 bucks eguals 50 bucks go get yourself a adjustable timing plate 35 bucks and save yourself the costly rebuild from the key shearing later and get a 12 pack with the left over cash to aid in getting it all together you dont need a jet kit you only use two mains and 2 pilots, so 4 jets total that you can buy for a few bucks a piece why buy a kit with a ton of sizes you will never use its like buying a honda rim for your banshee youll never use it either

80+ on pavment is easy, last time i went to the dragstrip (bout 2 weks ago)i took my shee for the hell of it and with no traction on the line and running a set of stock yfz rears with stock gearing i hit 77 in the 8th, so im sure i could easyly do 80+ also, got alot of mods but all bolt ons besides the 20 over pistons

the best suspension you can afford would be the best thing to do first, a bike with a good suspension will be faster on the track than a bike with a stock suspension and some motor mods

what i find amazing is no one in the world has ever figured this out, just wait till every race team finds out, maybe i can sell some magic plugs to them i bet they belive yu as much as we do, a plug cant not possibly advance your timing, it will not fire until it has voltage sent to it from your ignition system, it just dont fire when it wants to

wait wait guys i figured out how these new plugs advance the timing, you ready, ok the plugs have sykik powers, they read the ignition systems mind and fire 2 degrees before the ignition system sends the juice to them! so not only are the mind readers but they must generate there own power, no i can rid off all that stator and coil and wires and all that ignition stuff and save even more wieght, man im gonna be fast!!!

hey guys anyone got a trailer they would like to get rid of near NC, im looking for a 7ft by 16ft solid wood floor dual 3500lb axles with at least one brake axle, thats my ideal trailer but will consider others as well, let me know what yas got

ya i cut 4 links out and was perfect

thats correct, with standard lenght shocks they only come with dual rate from elka, but you can get tripple rate standard length from works, if you dont want the sag and get elkas have them build them with a "live" first spring and not the ssd spring and they will not have the sag