2strokespirit

Its 2 differant things... like said above. Hot rods are not wiseco. One is made in taiwan, the other..... is made in.... Doesn't matter, both are good and proofed itself. Wiseco is cheaper though...

For sure a ball joint can be finished after 7 months of hard riding, I haven't done more than 20 hours which includes 2 races... thats totally insane...

I know call of duty 4 is excellent and a whole differant game, but has anyone played Crysis? Its basically Far Cry 2. Its absolutely awesome, nothing can be compared with it graphics wise, try it out....

http://www.lsracing.com/yamaha-banshee-parts.htm Important Notes: D-Arms = Uppers only require 2 87 Yamaha Warrior Ball Joints V-Arms = Requires 2 87 Warrior Ball Joins; Thats info from the Lonestar webpage..

Yes, I think I will give them a call... I ordered a new set of ball joints, I am going to put a grease nipple on it, just to give it a little grease on services, who inspects ball joints every day before riding, my previous bike oem joints lasted more than 5 years!!! Thanks....

Here is the first thread.... The a-arms is just 9 months on the bike, but I haven't ride for about 2 months... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...34&hl=i2500

I was the guy that post the thread about my new HD i2500 a-arm kit that the upper a-arm did not fit in onto the brackets, it had a play of about 1mm. Ok so I just made up a washer to get rid of the problem, that was about 7-8 months ago. I have contacted HD about this, but they just ignores me.... I thought they where a reputable company and have customer service, I guess not. Well after only 7 months of riding, I have a hour meter on my bike and ride only some weekends, the a-arms has only about 20 Hours on them, the lowers ball joints are totally destroyed!!!! I was in my workshop, building a motor for a guy when my bike was in the way and I wanted to move it, I grab the left front wheel and when I try to moved it, I felt play on the wheel. I immedialtely thought it was a bearing or something and inpected it, because the a-arms is just 7 months old... I bought the bike brand new in October 2006, so it was weird that there can be any problems, since I don't ride that much, just had 2 races on the a-arms as well and some dune riding, I removed the front wheel and when I jacked up the a-arm, the bottom ball joint's joint almost fell out, they are totally messed up...!!! I could not believe this!!! The upper bushes has play as well and they got greased often... If you look at the upper bush you can see its not good quality bushes, I will make my own teflon ones, but the damn ball joints are totally destroyed after 20 hours!!! If you go and read about HDs balljoints, they rave about them and how durable they are, I contacted the dealer where I bought them, but he refuses everything I told him, just like the past and said this is NORMAL wear for a ball joint on a banshee, what a bunch of crap, I have my own tune shop in SA and he thinks I will believe him.. The saddest part is HD do not answer my e-mails or anything.... What should I do? I heard that Lone star ball joints looks the same and ATV four play ones, but they are better quality. Another company said to me that HD balljoints don't last, thats a fact... Anybody know what other balljoint can I use?? I am going to contact HD again this afternoon.

My K&Ns with a woman's silk sock oiled, allow nothing threw, I am a pain with a clean air filter and I can assure u they can do a filtration job. If a filter flows more than the other one, it does not mean it cannot filtrate. But if thats some of you guys opinions I will respect that, but for me, the K&Ns are a WINNER because they floe so much and do a VERY good filtration job...

That is aliminium tube with a RZ350 airbox rubbers, but i think they are the same as the banshees.

I saw those cranks from the same guy... I thought its a no name brand or something, damn!!! Thats a very very good price..

Yes, I am also curious what did the mag say about the shee???

Rebuilding high performance turbo charge motors, camping, 4x4, games.... I love home theater, have a nice B&W home theater system to watch dvds... and love the vision part as well...

If i have to put the temp meter in the sun I will for sure get a lot higher temp readings, I see you say high 80's in the sun, it is summer here and I have readings of up to 107.6!!! in the shade..

To be honest, most of the time between 110 - 125 some days were up to 128!!! Just curious do you run a heat gauge?

Thats what I thought 2, but for maybe slipping the clutch, I can do it much faster with my hand, and more controllable...

Nossmachine's webpage say 1000' is 125 yes, but is stock 22cc because I read on another forum its 23.5. I know for a fact that a RZ350 31k with the low compression oem head is 23cc.

How much is stock compression? Thanks

You will walk over him... :biggrin:

I don't want to start an argument, but just want to inform some of the guys here, I don't know how hot it gets in the states, but I live in desert area in Southern Africa, in the summer at X country when the bike gets enough air, it just can not stay cool enough, do nott even wanne talk about slow trail riding, it will only stay cool at a cruising speed. There is nothing wrong with my jetting or cooling system, engine ice, nothing can keep it cool except and oversize radiator. ALL the guys, yes ALL the guys here that runs in the National enduros put an oversize radiator on their bikes, its one of the first mods they do.. On a banshee its not the radiator that is the problem, but the airflow, the gastank is close behind the radiator and restrict airflow, yes the stocker would have worked if it was mounted on a less restrictive place... I do agree with you that this guy MAY have (MAYBE) another problem... but a stocker won't run cool here on a HOT summers day (which is the whole summer), unless my temp gauge or laser gun is faulty... This has been experienced..

Yes that is Laegers, its for sure nice, here runs a Laegers Banshee chassis with almost 500mm of front wheel travel, maybe you get more, but thats bad ass..

oh and these...

I run K&N filters with pre-filter outerwear or a womans silk sock in cross country desert races in Africa, If you keep the filter oil-ed there is no way any dirt can come threw, I ALWAYS feel for dirt and dust in my airbox boots, there are non and the filters is so clean in the inside, DO NOT OVER SERVICE a K&N filter. Oh yeah and THERE IS NO such thing as a NON restricted airfilter!!!!!, they talk crap if they say theirs aren't restictive. My motors run so reliable with K&Ns, the whole turbulance story is true, but if you run a little pipe of at least 4 inches long between the filter and the carb, it will straighten out the air, I have been playing around with K&N filters as clamp ons on 2 stroke for a long long time, I think the Y-boot system from yamaha and other companies works great, I actually will recommend it before individual filters(it looks crap), but I use both. This is all the intakes I have used to try and get rid of the turbulance. Both all of them make the motor act differant. (sorry for the hijack)

That junk ass rubber is the exact same copy of a Yamaha RD250 1973-1975 airbox pipe. That rubber creaties a little more bottem end power than the clamp on filter to the back of the carbs, its not so much junk, i've tested it personally on a RZ bike.

Never ever throw cold water over an overheated engine, its not a good thing.. I ride in temps up to 115 degrees. I can do about 2-3 big dune climbs than I am hot. I don't care who says an oversize radiator is a waist of money, but that was the only thing that could bring my temp down, the nice thing is the oversize Radiator brings the operating temp down in the summer to as much as 158. The nice thing about the oversize is that you can ride very slow and tight trails without overheating... there is nothing wrong with my jetting.

That is BOSSON pipes. They have a website, do a search on Bosson Performance exhausts South Africa. Talk to Chris, he is a real nice guy and knows his stuff. I will post a pic with the exhaust flanges. Of yeah, the clutch was in 2 positions, pull on the gearlever (wich I like) and a footpedal one, which I had later removed. I was busy on working on some 12v electric solenoids to make it tiptronic pedals for gearshifts on the steering wheel...