brian

They will idle if adjusted right. Idle adjustment location depends on if your TORS (throttle override system) are removed or not. With TORS - there is a large body mounted to the carb top. The throttle cable is connected to it. There is a knurled screw head on the top toward the rear. This is the idle adjustment. Without TORS - most TORS removal kits come with idle adjustment screws. They should be installed in the side of the carbs. A little brass screw sticking outof an aluminum boss (just above the top of the float bowl) which has a jam nut on it.

Yeah, I did that before.

Not tryin to argue with you. But you don't have problems with it jumping gears when you skippin whoop tops ? I was thinking of using both together, but I dont want the fucker downshifting on me when I am really hammering the whoops.

I'm with Loco ! I hate that feeling !

Just to clear it up. Are you saying that it is hard starting now (since the drag port) ? I think that 18cc domes will boost your compression a bit higher than 165psi if your topend is pretty tight. You're right, you will have to run 100% c-12 instead of 50-50. IMO it is worth the performance gain to spend a few dollars more on fuel.

I heard from another guy that used both mods at the same time that they didn't work very good together. Made shifting so easy that it was changing gears when hitting big bumps. I dont know ? :shrug: Thats what I was told.

Look up CHEVROLET BANSHEE's posts ! LOLOLOL That Eddie cracks me up :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :thumbsup:

If it is just a little nick in the center of the slide bore I wouldn't worry about it too much. You might want to use a small piece of scotch brite to "lightly" polish it if there is a burr there that catches your fingernail. Honestly, as long as your slide doesn't catch on it you should be fine.

Nope, I got a big F'n hole in my piston !! LOLOLOLOL Thats the only way that POS is beating a banshee (cuz i'd have to push it) !!! If it beats his buddies banshee, his buddy can't ride.

He isn't lieing. It'll outrun my banshee.

Hey dude, FUCK those guys !! I'll go with you !! I'll prolly have to ride bitch tho cus my bike still in a million pieces on the garage floor. LOLOLOL (not to mention it"ll take me all weekend just to get there) Sorry to hear those guys bugged out. Man I could use some dune time about now ! :sad:

Besides, What does .3/.4 horsepower really mean if you are not doing some serious drag racing. It may mean something if you are running a 5hp briggs and straton, but with 45-50 horsepower I doubt most people could tell.

You are the MAN ! Ed You always make me laugh.

Yeah dude, you're getting better. I could read everything you typed in this thread. That's much better than usual. See, I told you last night to take your ass to school today. Look at the results in just one day !!!! :thumbsup:

I think he meant continuity. If there is continuity from the yellow wire to the chassis, you have a short.

You gotta re-jet. Like Dave said, it's gonna use alot more fuel. I promise you wont save any $$. Especially if you are using more oil too. Sup Dave ? Sup Red ?

Those are some really good ideas. But, if you have access to an air compressor and an impact wrench, it'll be alot easier. You will also need a torque wrench for re-assembly.

You are still in high school ! Weren't you supposed to be in school today ? (not out riding around) What you "shod" do is take your ass to school tomorrow and pay attention ! You have alot of ground to make up !

Hey, I might be interested in that to end. I bought a setup on P/S and got screwed. Now I need another setup soon cuz my brother is coming all the way from Az to ride w/me at Lil Sahara first weekend in Nov. Need some info on the cylinder porting. Let me know what they are.

No the bottom is not too bad. If you have the right tools it will be easier. You could remove your airbox and run K&N pods, and maybe some bigger carbs (PWKs). But the biggest gain would come from some porting to the cylinders. Why the hell arent you drunk anyway ? >>>>LOL :yelrotflmao:

I let a "buddy" of mine ride mine last April. Got it back in the same condition (wheels locked, piston in pipes) The only diff..... there was coolant leaking all over. It broke both case halves. On teardown I found that the cylinder sleeve was melted away, the rod snapped at the wrist pin end, and what was left of the wrist pin was mostly melted. Basically, you have to teardown to know what you're gonna need. Teardown and rebuild will be alot easier if you have access to an air compressor and impact wrench. Some things on the clutch side are really tough without it. The possibilities of adding power are only limited to how fat your wallet is !!! You should explain how you like to ride, and someone here will tell you how to set it up.

Already .080 over. Is .090 ok ? Yeah, the price was pretty good so I asked him why he was selling them, and if the cylinders were actually ported for a 4mil setup or if he was using a base spacer. This was the reply..... "Yes they were ported for a 4 mil stroker crank and no I didnt have to use a base spacer . The porting is Drag/Play port the next and most aggressive was the full drag race port so it is one level from full drag race port specs. I ran these on 35mm Keihin Carbs on c12 race fuel once I got the jetting dialed in the motor ran very strong and hard . It was a very big step up from stock . I only ran the setup about 2 tanks of gas and decided to try out the cheetah cub cylinders that is why I am selling these . You can have the package for $ 350 shipped . Thanks" So I assumed that this was a bolt on setup.

Yeah I figured I might get away with it when I was cleaning out the first cylinder. On the second one though, there is about a nickel sized spot right at the top. There already seems to be about a .003 piston/cylinder fit. I dont see any way out. Hone up to nect size, Spend more money on pistons, etc...................

I'm building a 4mil stroker motor. I got a set of cylinders from a guy over at P/S (think i got FUCKED....no lube...dont feel good...) They came with prolite pistons and were ported by Corey at LA cycle. The port work looks good. The guy I bought them from said they only had a few hours on them and it looks like that was true from what i can tell. Problem is that he was storing them in his laundry room, and someons got some liquid detergent on them and the pistons. I got some wd-40 and some scotch brite and scrubbed off the detergent and found that the shit corroded a couple spots on the top of the pistons, and corroded a few rather large spots in the cylinder walls. Looks like the cylinder walls will need to be honed a little (porbably take another .003-.004 out of size to cleanup the walls). That will make the piston fit too loose. How much bigger can I safely go. I think I remember a guy tellin me not to go that much past .06 over with a 4mil setup. These are already 66mm (.080 over) bored. ? ? ? ? ? :shrug:

Bump for good seller. Hey Dan, thanks...got my parts today. they all look good.