okbeast

Lol you seem quite disappointed, sucks that its happening but i've read nearly every post and everything i can possibly think of has been mentioned, and sounds like you've tried most of them. Hopefully the air leak is the issue.

I have 2 quarts of used ATF cam, i'd even do it just for shipping :biggrin:

Haha, I know how ya feel (not really all my stuff runs good LOL). J/p man, keep at it. I'll see what I can dig up, but it sounds like you've covered all the basics so far. Random stuff to check... pickup gap checked ALL electrical? pistons in backwards

Lol, ok. Sounds like ur fucked. Better look at a 4-stroke. :ninja: Edit: Don't remember what the other post said, did you check compression and squish yet?

No carbs will not cause that problem, not as big as you're making it seem. Did you do a plug chop at WOT or do one (i'm not sure it's even possible) at lower RPM. A WOT plug chop is not going to help you in this case. It still sounds like either pilot, or needle jetting issue. What has Kevin told you to try? I still dont understand why you have all these questions when you have a builder that did the bike...

yeah we get it. there's still no way you're hitting 11,3xx with T-5's. Send Snopicynskarooski or w/e the hell his name is a message and see if he has any dyno charts with T-5's, I highly doubt any of those bikes hit that high of RPM.

Word just get the thread profile and lengths from lonestar and tell them to fuck off. go to mcmaster and order them and you'll be set.

What's the reason for closing the gap some? I know why you'd do it, but what about his motor setup would require it?

That's a 492 stock swinger coal hill bike Dave, easy now :wink:

Sounds like jetting LOL I never had a problem on Kevin's motor doing this, never really messed with the jetting either now that I think of it. I just stuck a fatty in there and rode it and it was fine. I'd take Kev's experience, he built the motor, he knows what's gonna get it running right.

Search overrides on ebay. WCR has some up and that's the quickest way I"ve found to get in contact with them.

If you're going to ride out in the sticks then it's gonna be impossible. If it's just a duner or open trail area bike then just get an extra coat of clear, wax it often just like car paint.

I'd mostly agree on not hitting 113XX with T-5's unless there is some wicked porting or some phenomenon inside ur motor. As for bigger ports not getting you as much air you can't really say that b/c a bigger port will allow more volume in, it's kind of a trade off, but I'm not sure where the breakover point would be.

With the spacer plate you dont need cut domes BUT it's just another place for an air leak so cut domse would be ideal. You want a play port. I'd recommend kevin at HJR just b/c he's done work for me and I know his stuff runs great. There's a bunch of guys in MI that do work, and a bunch on here from MI that I'm sure will chime in.

I've got a buddy wanting to try the T5's 1st before they go up for sale. I'd give 'em an 8.5 out of 10. They look flawless from what you can see when they're mounted, but have some light rust around the spring holders.

Got a set of small bore, small flange inframes. Painted hi-temp satin black with polished silencers. They look brand new. I'd like to get $350 for 'em shipped, depending exactly where you are. Pm me and we can work out shipping to be cheaper maybe.

Lookin at the pipes, swinger, maybe some Shaws. DIBS

I believe that is passions "12 port". Those are called worm holes, or auxillary holes

Interested in some black inframe CPI's with polished stingers in a trade? They're in pretty good condition. Painted, I'd say they're worth $300, maybe we can work out a trade. I'll be goin through the city in a few weeks too so shipping wouldn't be involved. Lmk

I'll have some black CPI inframe small bore pipes tonight for sale, polished silencers. Tryin to get 275+shipping for them. PM me and i'll try to get you some pics.

If you wanna pay that much cool go for it. I'm just saying that a great port job could be had for quite a bit less and with some different gearing/tire setups he could still have a great "woods" bike and save a little money.

Looks like you just copied it off of bikebandit.com. I really don't give a shit, it's a good tool to have but there's other one's already out there.

625 seems a little high for just portwork. You could get it from other well-known guys for around $300 I would think. Now if it included a bore and piston kit then that would be a little more reasonable.

I'll let ya know, I might just beat these out and install some high strength ones then re-powdercoat, gotta see if I can find the right studs or not.

Hm, it's off a '98, i think that'd make it the smaller pattern, but not sure.