okbeast

damn i was bored at work and was hopin you'd wanna argue. well until next time :biggrin:

That's usually for the welded rod, not one that has full movement but won't come out fuckstick I do greatly appreciate your assistance though, you are a great asset

Well I figure the pushrod is a softer material than the tube it runs through. It does run through the middle of one of the gearsets correctly?

I'm more confident in just running it how it is before I try that. If all else fails I"ll split the cases, just didnt wanna mess with it right now, especially having just bought the motor.

Why do you think you need one? For most gas applications the stocker will suffice. I put one in so I can run methanol later on down the road.

Just put one on yesterday. You have to cut out the middle of the 2 existing holes (pingle only has 1 inlet) but that was it, pretty easy process.

Not sure, I got the motor off of a member here. Come to think of it the actuator arm that was in it was pretty jacked up. I really didn't want to grind on the rod while it was in the cases and have the metal shavings in all the oil, I figured this option was better. I'm not sure how the end would get mushroomed without actually welding up. The only thing I can see it affecting now is not disengaging the clutch enough from the rod being too short and causing issues there. I'm not really in the splitting the cases mood right now either.

Found out the end of the rod was mushroomed, but not welded at all. It was smooth and still has the correct amount of movement to work properly so i put it back together. I'll ride it at the track again this weekend and if the clutch keeps slipping i figure this is probably the problem, otherwise i'll just keep running it.

Pickup gap can still change, had it happen on a few bikes for some reason, check it. Also take 30 mins. to learn how to check the electrical, obviously it would be worth it and pay for itself.

Do a plug-chop, you can find out how in the jetting FAQ thread. Mains sound a tad big for having the airbox on, but it should run well where it's at. Why do you ask about the jetting, is the bike running bad?

Well nothing with electrical is easy but don't you think learning it would be better then getting ass-raped by a shop? 1st check and re-check all your wiring, connections, wires, etc. Then check the stator and coil for resistance according to what is probably written in the FAQ.

Well if you read the electrical FAQ i dont see why you're asking this? You're just going to get most of the same stuff as what is on there right?

Yeah that's what I said. I'm gonna grease the ball up good and squirt some PB blaster in it and call it good. I'm clueless as to what it's done.

Got the clutch all back together and adjusted properly and realized i didn't grease the pancake bearing or the ball/pushrod so i took it all back apart to do that. The ball came right out with a magnet but the pushrod is a different story. It is not welded to the clutch actuator arm because I can spin the pushrod with the magnet (fairly freely) and the pushrod has 1/8" to 1/4" horizontal movement. Is the pushrod suppose to come out with the inner hub and basket/gear all still on? Or do I not have anything to worry about? Gracias

Hm pickup gap wasn't that mentioned before? lol Glad you got it runnin good

I got your ASV setup, doesnt seem to be working well with my lockout setup right now. Gonna try a few adjustments this weekend and if i'm not satisfied i'm selling it. Pm me and i'll get with ya on it.

Pray

Strength of material bud. Every key is not going to made perfect. I would guess they are cut and forged (hopefully) by the looks of them. You can't get that process correct over 1 million times, you sure can try though (lean 6 sigma?). P.S. sweetie don't you think the pot is calling the kettle black when you bust on dave for being an arrogant ahole? (note: non nut-swinging post, thanks meat)

Plugs backing out usually means it's getting a lean detonation. You definately should NOT run it after this happens. Check your timing, check for air leak, check your jetting, etc.

What had you convinced it was overheating? My bike will spit out some coolant sometimes after riding hard (and usually after filling it). I just assume the coolant has expanded more and is purging out the overflow, no harm no foul unless it's BOILING over.

Interested in pipes and front smoothies :biggrin:

wtf

I never knew you had deleted a post but something didnt seem right in the 1st few posts where you and dajo's panties got in a bunch. As for microfiber towels, i'm not sure why you're dissin on 'em. What else out there is better and wiping off crap and not scratching it? Hell i dont even run plastic so they stay in the truck. Oh and taking advice from someone just because they RIDE the bike doesn't mean they know shit about working on 'em. FYI for future inquiries

I've got a set of chrome T-5's and some black CPI's. Not sure if i wanna sell the T-5's yet though, will have pics of the Cpi's this weekend.

Take a 300' run in 4.2 seconds carrying the front tires 3/4 of the way. OH wait that's flat though. I'm not doggin on your bike, learn to take a fuckin joke :shoothead: