Bansh-eman

i have the full 8 plate hinson setup, they run regualr steels and fibers. just one more. if you have a pancake then the bolt will not fit with the hinson pressure plate. you will need to get a longer bolt. I have several of them that fit the Cascade/Packard panckes let me know if you need one.

curve 1 is not the setting for lowend (most advanced) thats curve 3

you dont really need to be running a 17cc dome, you could go bigger and back off the octane. although that wouldnt fix the issue your having with how its running

.056 and .057 are fine as far as them not being 100% dead on, but you could tighten the squish up more, ideal is around .040 the differant between hot and cold isnt going to be 20 lbs or anything but thats the correct method to do it. you want the motor to be at operating temps because thats how your going to be riding it. and well all know that metal expands with heat

you dont need to run a differant plug unless your using alky, to keep from detonating you have to know what your compression is and how much timing you plan on running.

you can use almost any type of oil in these trannies. as long as its not power saving or energy saving or what ever its called. you can just buy some regular run of the mill ATF type F. stock you need 1500ml which is about 1.5 quarts

a rev box does nothing for a 2 stroke. your rev is determined primarily by your pipes. it could be doing the timing but as far as the rev box part of it that claims to raise your max rev 1000 rpm is not true. when you say coil pack did you just buy a new coil thats oem? also you dont need to be running those plugs, those are more for alky not race gas.

i wouldnt buy the impact driver, for near the same amount you can buy a Makita , Bosch , or Dewalt not sure with the welder i dont know whats what in that industry

i dont think passion sets custom curves. i want to say Redline? but i cant remember if they do or not. your best best is to make your own if you have access to a dyno. Do a little research to findout what setting will do what and start tweaking it. Use the dyno with it to show if your making gains or not and where in the powerband they are being made or lost

we all know that he will not get 100% of the active member to give him the 25 dollars, but lets say of those 10,000 member only 10% pay. thats still 25 grand per year on top of his sponsors payments. so thats right under 60 grand???? lol paying out of pocket...my ass... How about he is getting advertisments of not only his racing company but also his races to the biggest gathering of atv enthusiasts on the net. some might as thats because of his work, BS thats because of the work of all the builders and the avid drag racers that freuent the site and give all the knowledge they have. you rarley se any info coming out of charies mouth to help answer anytying. so in my mind he is just paying his dues like all the other business owners. and in the end he is turning a profit off of it.

its the whole thing. jeff at fast sells them or you can buy a ASV lever off ebay thats a refurbished for ALOT cheaper then new ones. most after market levers are ez pull. its just a differant pivot location for the perch and lever

that was supposed to say sever bluing is BECAUSE your running lean but I'm a retard and wasnt paying attention to what i typed.. its because when you run lean your motor runs hotter. the hotter exhaust temps will cause the chrome to blue more

its probly just premix and dirt that has collected over time. use a rag and gas and wipe it down, then you can polish the pipes back out if there is bluing on them

good chroming isnt cheap but it wont kill you either.. talk to Bk_banshee on here. his name is brian he does killer work. the one thing that sucks shipping pipes is they cost alot to ship. i just sold my pipes to a guy and it cost me 36 bucks to ship them. as far as bluing goes, sever bluing is break your running leak and its the extra heat causing it. you may show signs of a little bluing with normal conditions but that just part of it. and its only at the flanges

humm thats weird dave, mine never creeped until my plates where either fried or my adjustment was off. when i put it in gear it kinda jumps but the bike wont creep. now if i have the wheels off the ground then yea they will barley spin.

yes you have to drain your fluids and remove the clutch cover. In the center of the pressure plate there is a nut and a phillips screw that is the adjuster. get your self a clymers manuel its a must have. it will explain pretty much anyting you need to know to maintian your motor

the differance in compression could be that the porting is off but a 10 psi differance isnt something like the guy rounded on of the tranfers a tad more then the other. 10 psi would be a totally differant style of porting so i doubt thats your issue. Your domes could be possibly differant sizes? your squish set the same on both sides? your piston tolerances same? when your doing your test are you wamring the bike up then doing it with the carbs on and throttle wide open until the needle stops moving?

re-chrome?

its not uncommon, but it is becasue you need to adjust your clutch at the adjuster on the pressure plate.

bump

it could be a number if differant things causing the differance. normally anything over 10 lbs differance you want to rebuild the motor. Are you doing your test after the bike has had many hours of riding on it , or is this a fresh build and your getting a reading thats 10 off from side to side?

ahh gottcha :thumbsup: oh absolutly, porting is hands down going to make the biggest improvment of any mod as far as power goes, and adding bigger carbs to a stock port is a total waste.

just keep in mind if your looking to make a trip in the summer when the kidos are out of school your going to have about as much fun as getting kicked in the crotch. it is STUPID hot out there in the summer.

if you have them dcked you can always compensate your deck hieght at the base. or just adjust your squish. but to be honest its probly fine from what your describing.

this is not correct. If your porting is very mild then yes it will not casue you to lose power but if your running a nice agressive dune port then your stock carbs are choking the piss out of the motor and your without a doubt losing power. will it run? yes. will it run at 100% no.