Bansh-eman

well to do a stroker you got to have your jugs reported anyhow... if you can save the money to do the stroker you might as well do that... but theres alot more to it then just dropping in bigger crank and new pistons... you got to have your domes cut for the new stroke the jugs have to be ported to change the port timings for the added stroke... you should get bigger carbs or your only going to starve the bigger motor with stock carbs... reeds for thorottle respones. better pipes to not restrict the motor... a stronger clutch... possibly a longer swing arm depending on what motor you go with... as you can tell it adds up very fast... if you dont plan on doing much drag racing just have your stock jugs ported by a reputable builder and your going to have a whole new motor under you... but for sure get rid of those t-6 and get ahold of at least some t-5's...

so ditch the t-6 and get some t-5 or drag pipes if that what your going for...

specs as in? search sudco and check out their site u can find most any question of keihin carbs on there... or if your running stockers search mikuni sp? and they have the same.

porting is the only mod our going to get 10-15 hp out of and not spend a grand.. thats the best bang for your buck, only thing is , if you plan on later on getting a stroker your going to have to have it reported to change the port timings..

sure its safe, there people all over this forum that run the same flywheel he ran, theres isnt any safer... he was just unfortunate that his didnt hold up...like sdaid he didnt have that much taken off, he had a pretty comon amount shaved from the wheel his just didnt holdup to it... for all you and i know the flywheel already had stress or hair lines in it and by shaving it it made it even weaker... is that still the responsability of the guy shaving it? i dont think so... unless you expect them to put the flywheel under a scope to see if there are any areas that are fractured

whats kinda compression do you have? your going to be ok with +4 but before i say you can go higher you need to do a compression test...

yea most part are interchangable on all years minus the cdi's those go from 87-94, 95-96, 97-up

we have been saying the last 2 trips we are goingout there but the last 2 trip we hav ahd shit break on us lol

for a pro design head this is true but a noss head you dont have too..and both take the same domes...

i want to say he only had 12oz taken off... you can have more then that taken off and the flywheel be fine... he just was one of the unlucky ones where it didnt holdup... he was the flywhel myth that people hear about but never see

so ijust went on base and watch Employee of the Month a little while ago with Jessica Simpson.. God Damn that chick gots some big knocks!!! i love how every sceen shes nippin like a mother fuker! made the movie all worth while!

if your looking for a good drag wheel then yes an 8 inch wil be best foryou...

what is your float heigth set at?oh and what carbs?

a cheaper route would have been better lights and maybe some new front brakes lol :beer: where did you endup camping? we where down in the washes, but i think next time we are going to camp somewhere else i cant fuking stand how at night the dust sits right there in the washes.

if your talking about the small brass ones by the bell where the filter bolts on thats your air screw...

yea they know the risks but whne you request a job to be done they are going to do it... he didnt have the most taken off that is offered theres even one more after what he had...

im not for sure but your rpms dropping on a long pull isnt becasue your jetting... thats gearing?

if your spilling fuel out the carbs...your float hieghts are off...

a 553cc motor on 34mm carbs? dosent sound like the smartet thing iv heard... if you can get all that for 3grand you better jump on it! but might want to try some bigger carbs! and if your going to do a 72mm piston wtf would you want a 4mm crank! get a 10 and do it right! get your self a 602!!!!!hang with the big boys lol :beer:

so average temps around 60-70... and elveation sea level to 1000? you probly get away with 21cc domes and have a little room to play with on the compression... but like i say at least 5 times a week only way to be 100% sure is to do a compression check!

actually a 7mil crank is nowhere near the price of a 4mil crank they are the same as a 10mil crank... and if you read better the 1500 is for the crank trenching , the crank , and a cleanup port... you still need the pistons... the 4mill was 1400 and was everything...

i know jeff at fast charges like 250 to teardown and rbuild your motor with a leakdown test... its not hard to doyour self though... get your self a clymers and go to town... id actually say try to do it your self the first time and get an understanding of how the motor is assembled that why when you see post on here you know what is being talked about... just make sure you do a leakdown test and a compression test after you build it to make sure there are no leaks so you dont blow your brand new motor...

then your going to cry after this season is ovr casue she is getting a face lift and going to be gutted...its for the better ...its half asses right now becsue the season came and bills too so i never got to finish her up ...

what carbs you running ? your needle jet has no screw... its the middle clip stock but i cant remember off the top of my head what the stock needle is... if your talking about the air screw the dealer ships normally change them along with other jets if needed to run at the altitude they are selling them at...

80w gear oils isnt the same wight as motor oil... its rated differantly... its not really as thick as you think it is... i run it casue its a good oil and iv always ran it with my new motor...