Bansh-eman

you are killing your motor trying to pull that tire... lose some paddles and youll move even faster... with 18 pad, yea it should hookup really bad ass but its also hooking up so well that your bogging your motor down...unless you got a monster under you thats way too much pads period.

custom cut your fenders and break those off... thats what most ppl do...

the long rod ha nothing to do with the displacment of the motor... most people that do stroker do the log rod becasue it make your motor more reilable... by making the rods longer you decrease the angle at which your rods are at when the motor fires casueing less stress on the crank bearing rods .. pretty much everything... to do a stroker your going to need the crank , either 795 or balster pistons depending on your bore... your jugs have to be ported to change the port timings to accomedate the stroker and your domes need to b cut as well... thats all you "need" but it is smart to get bigger carbs vf3 reeds pipes better clutch and possibly a +4 swing arm...

air screws are usally 2 turns out and idle screws are never the same on differant bikes you just got to sit it until your bike idles

i agree thats why i dont side with him or the guy that cut it, i just think its the way it goes some times.. sucks yes , but lie said thats the nature of the best sometimes..

what all you having done to it?

from what iv read which isnt a hole lot by any means... the suzuki FI is pretty good... only down fall is there is a short amount of delay when you pin it open for the computer to figure out howmuch fule to dump... but thats only hear say thats iv came across i dont know enough about it to say thats the case..

screws as in air screws and idle screws or torque specs?

if you only take the head off thats the only one youll need to replace...

yea id at least crack it open and take a look... cant hurt, only a few bucks to replace your head gasket ... i dought theres any damage but just to be safe might as well...also take off your carbs and reeds and look at the skirts of the pistons and see if there is any gouging...

that one part of it... it goes to your carbs too.... those big metal things on the side of your carbs...

its your "throttle over ride system" when your slides get stuck open and your throttle is "closed" (your not hitting it) the computer will make your bike cutout thinking your carbs is stuck to help you keep the bike under control... the idea is to prevent a run away bike...

nope

how long did he ride it "missed up"? if it was jetting and it wasnt ridin much it should be fine... ony way jetting is going to hurt it any is if it was ran for a while and was lean then you could be looking at some piston damage or if he ran too low of octane and it was detonating... othr then that jetting shouldnt have hurt it... do a plug shop and see if its jetted right... if so make some passes and see if it cuts out like he was saying it did... he might have just relized he didnt have the money to spend on it and this was a way to get you to tak eit back? i had a guy do that with a dryer he bought from me...some poeple just arnt man enough to comout and tell you so they make things up

looking for some new chrome tierods for +2 arms... only ones iv found are for stock... wheres got some nice rods that arnt crap?

what your hearing is more then likley your motor reaching its highest rev until it cant pull anymore... not the max rev...

lol south africa

nope wrong movie... employee of the month is the movie with jessica simpson and dake cook where they work in the cosco or sams bulk warehouse place...

pay someone to change it? just change it your self and save 60 bucks...

go get some more of those copper washers and try to replace them and then rebleed your lines should fix it..

tors isnt going to keep your motor from over reving... the purpose if the tors is to kill the motor when your slide is open and your throttle is closed...

go to Works Webpage... or google works perfomance and go through the links

my guess is your motor isnt even close to reving out... most 2 strokes can rev upwards of 14k.... id be willing to bet your getting about 10k maybe...

you know iv heard the bottle cracking boots thing time and time again... you guys must have differant intakes then the one i had back in the day... casue the pro design intake the boost bottle sits on the billet manifold that is bolted to the jugs... so there is no stress on the boots... if anything the boots are going to rip casue the weigth of the carbs and pods bounceing around...

i think all yamaha atv's have the same bolt pattern, i know the yfz is same as banshee.. some guys run atf in there trannys but i use gearsaver 80w, always have always will and i dont get what your wanting to know about the break fluid... is it the front or back resi that leaking? check your gasket and make sure its not ripped and the cap is secured well.