Bansh-eman

you guys are fuking funny, theres no way to know that it was going to fail... you cant see the underside to see if its fractured or if its thinner in one spot then others.. and id be willing to bet youve thought of sending your flywheel or other parts to this guy to have done... i know alot of poeple on here either have sent him parts or where going to but never got around to it... just like wes said this guys cut over 70 of them and maybe 2 have failed... and your quick to start pointing fingers and blaiming it on th guy? give me a brake...

noneed for a tz bearing the stock bearing is fine... but you shuld look into a maxload..

we tried to pull him back but we didnt have a buggy just a yfz 450 and the dunes where too big to pull him out on it... we trid for a while until i just went to lizard and got some guys in a buggy that where getting ready to bounce and they pulle dus to olds and then i limped him to camp..

lol no picts come up sry im at work right now ill have to wait till im home and can see your ranting picts... off to school

umm i think that is what da is saying... that there is no 100% its no were set in stone being all the differant factors... its just best guessing and running what others have ran to get him close until he gets it spot on with how his motor runs

im not taking a side... im saying that the flywheel coming apart has nothing to do with too much metal being taken off casue there are alot of flywheel wih the same cut and no problems.. the problem lies within your flywheel.. or at least whats left of it... dogging on you . pfft comon get real...dont make me smack you with one of those god damn salami sangishes you bring all the time!

it was pretty dull at some parts... but it had its points where i laughed pretty good.. oh and it is jessica simpson, not applehead.... cant confuse that hot bimbo!

welp i ll keep your customer service in mind later on then! always good to stand by your products ... but how knows maybe if he contacts the cutter he might do the same... i dont know...

glad i could assist, any more q's make some more posts!

with minumal motor work to just accomidate a 4mm, your looking at about 7% gains... but anyone doing a stroker would be out of their minds to not get everything assosiated with it, i.e. carbs reeds pipes head clutch the list goes on and on

lol well at least they got the super part in there somewhere

i know for a FACT there any several people running the same flywheel cut he had done... but i wont mention any names... the guy that did the cutting knows what he is doing im 100% sure of that and he does these thing all the time ... he knows how much metal to take of and from where to get the wiegth desired... im not going to drop dimes being polish doesnt want to mention where it was cut and ruin somones image do to his misfortune.

when you towed it you got it started right? thats called poping the clucth ... just some fyi for you... on stcok carbs i want to say the float hiegth should be 18mm... pull the carbs and take of the bowls... flip them upside down and get a micrometer and messure from the edge of the carb to the top of the bowl... thats your float hieght... if its not right it will casue problems... also if your pilot is off you would be ale to kick it over... when i was running stock carbs i went from a 27.5 to a 32 pilot and it wouldnt kick over but i could tow it and it would start but wouldnt stay started... dropped back to 27.5 and i was fine...

if thats the case , get a 4mil crank have your stock jugs ported with a nice dune port and some weisco pro lites for your cylinders, get some shearers 35pwks vf3 reeds coolhaed with 20 domes a +4 swinger and a dyna and you will have a nice fast duner that can drag when you want to...

but they are super ... thats got to mean something right ? lol :shrug: :shoothead:

the adjusters on the tops of the carbs... you need a sync tol to make sure your pulling the slides the same amount when you pull the throttle...

cutoff is around 160-170 ... but i go lower then that to be safe and shoot for 150... the extra insureance of spending 30 bucks more at the pump to save my motor is well worth it imo then trying to be a cheap skate and run 93 oct until you hit 170 psi do your self , your wallet, and your motor a favor go to sears and get your self a 60 dollar compression tester... only thing i dont like about those craftsman didnt think too well while making it , the threads dont have a nut to screw the tester in with... you have to use pliers and it chews up the head... but for 60 bucks its dead on...

i have to agree 100% by far well worth the 50 bucks! only problem is when your friends findout you got it they all want to borrow it instead of buying thier own

are you trying to make a duner or a drag bike thats duner friendly? if price isnt a big deal then make a fukin monster... like i said when i got my 4 mil yea this is plenty of power , i dont need any more then this... and now im building a cub aftr this seasons over.... i guess we will see if its enough after the next season is done or not...

your fuking crazy! you thin a build is going to take a scope and go over the flywheel to inspect it and make sure its perfect before and after he shaves it? ... then your saying they should do the same with cranks... a crank can give out but you dont bitch saying they didnt inspect the crank... or your pistons can break a skirt you bitch casue they didnt scope the pistons? comon use a little common scence! whos to say that the person installing it didnt damage it while installing or hadling it prior to installing... or perhapps the amount of abuse they put on it while riding... like iv said 100 times in this post the amount taken off isnt the problem .... there are PLENTY of people running the exact same cut on thiers without the flywheel coming apart...

you would be fine running a 4mil crank dor trials ... its when you get into cubs that arnt trail friendly.. run your stock jugs with a nice woods port and the 4mil and your goiing to have a nice combo under you...

a 4mil to a 7mil both on the same jugs and mods the 7mil will have more topend.. however the 4mil cub versus the 7mil noncub with smaller pistons.. is just a waste of money your spending almost doulbe for a 7mil crank to have a smaller motor... when you can get a 4mil cub and have a monster that is much more duner friendly at less of a cost.... and the 1500 i posted was incorrect casue i didnt add the 7mil crank cost i did just over a 4mil which isnt nearly as much as they cost... also i didnt include an accurate amount for the porting to change the port timings for the 7mil... so you can actually add more for that as well.. where the cub comes already ported for that stroke crank... only thing that can be done is a clean up port for the casting flaws.. and 99% of builders clean them up for free when you order the motor from them..

what are you going to use to bake it with after you spray it?

dude says he like to drag just not the only thing he does. and i think youll agree when he does drag the stars arnt going to hookup nearly as well as the haulers.. haulers are fine for duning once you get used to them... keep in mind love 2 ride the haulers arent going to turn as well as your stars did... but for draging you will notice a HUGE differance in the two

lol thats nothing... the fly wheel speperated at the bend.. big deal. it could have been worse and spidered out and shattered... when it let go it wasnt even viloent... it was like he stuck the motor.... so yes its absolutely safe...not to mention he has a freakin billet staor cover so that thing wasnt going anywhere , now with the stock plastic yea i can see it ripping through it...