Bansh-eman

i didnt see one listed on the oem replacment thing but if you got here http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ click online store then select cascade banshee products... then go to neutral witch cover polished one for 21.00 bucks... why it is polished? i dont know you can see it any ways but what ever... im sure if you go to a dealer they got a part number for a plastic but the online oem replacment didnt have it listed sry.. if you can get a plaistc one id get that and then get your self a case saver... and it will cover that over anyways...

he is talking about the cover for the shift drum... im looking on a oem repalcment chart and dont see it.,. ill keep looking and try to find a part number fr you

just so you know in the future you can get the replacment bulbs 35watt to 50watt for lie 4 bucks a pop at almost any stealership

indeed...

ill be running nology and dyna so im just cutting my stock mounts and welding it under the plastics infront of the radiator... wonder why they dont shield the dynas and nologys s you dont have to worry about interferance?

bahhh im not going to make it for new years.... me and the warden (wife) are taking our normal trip to mammouth to go snow boarding...

use www.imageshack.us once your uplaod the pict use the bottom link it gives you and then paste it in the pict thing on your post and your done

your saying if you have a 5mil longrod 4mil stroker you got to run spacer plate and domes? if so thats wrong... i run a 5m lr 4m s and all you need is 795s and domes... the piston is only being moved 2mm higher if the offset is 2mm so why is is everything making up for 4mm? the plate makes up for 4mm the domes makeup 2mm and the 795s makeup another 2 totaling 4mm...

i saying the spacer plate messures 4mm, not 2mm... and the domes are cut 2mm as well as the pistons having the rod moved 2mm higher as well making that 4mm... not 2mm the stroke how ever is only 2mm offset making the total 4mm like you said.. so why are these parts making up for 4mm and not 2? i know the one guy said for squish and what not but that shouldnt matter casue your rasieing both 2mm the gap should remain the sme..

for those of you looking to move your cdi away from the rear of the bike not to worry bout it having your wires melted or what ever... GB Racing on everything2stroke.com sells a plate with mounting holes for your cdi to go under your seat and tank... how ever they dont have one for a ims tank yet just stock.. i know some of you want to move your cdis but dont want to cut the stock brace and reweld it...

how u get it for free?

the first post was in fact wrong the offset is 2mm not 4... but the messurement of the spacer is 4mm and the pistons are 2 with the domes being the other 2... me not know why... but yup i passed bum scoop on the stroke

a spacer plate makes up for 4mm.... a 795 piston makes up 2mm and the domes cut make the other 2mm you might want to read around some...

hence the purge valve with the extra line to add a supplementary fuel .. like a small bottle..

duneable over rides are fairly new to the curcit vice the normal overides.. the dueable over rides you can make clutchless shift wot up and down... normal overrides you can make clutchless shift wot up but to come down you have to turn off the bike or you will bend a shift fork... some people have had problems with the dunables but its all about how they are cut... if done right they are pretty damn reliable... theres a few guys on here that run them and have no problems.. you can get the over ride for 1-5 2-5 and now they say they got one thats 1-6 ...but i dont knwo anyone that uses it so i cant tell you how well its holding up... but the 1-5 the 6th gear is removed...

humm mine didnt take 116 links... i want to say it was only like 108... i might be wrong though its been a day or two from when we cut it... i guess i should go back and count again...

making sure there is no alky sitting in your shits...when i raced go-kart when i was younger we ran gas through the tanks after draining the methonal sp? at the end of the night to flush the carbs and everyting out... alky sitting can messup metal...

a good average is 160-170 although there is no 100% set in stone pressure... to be safe i go from 155ish... its cheap insureance for your motor rather then trying to squize a few extra pounds and save a couple dollars

ahh i thought you where into the pre runner types.. my bad

if your going to dothat do like 530 is saying and just water transfer it ... you dont have to worry about the paper making bumps and you cant get into trouble for it

ok so a +4 you need to run 108 link i think it is... how many are added to make a +6? 112 links?

theres is no way to tell you hat domes are best for your bike just averages other have used... temp elevation porting mods all contribut to factors... only 100% way of knowing is to do a compression test...

one inch isnt going to make much differance unless your motor is a fukin air hog ... but im doughting you got a HUGe motor that pulling all that air in so my guess would be no differance on your app.

i ended up going with cascade... i wanted him to make my stuff pretty much like the plain cascade parts but he said he wasnt sure if it wouldbe right and if the fit would be right on either so i just spent the extra money and went with cascade ...but your right you cant beat that price... he should do packages for like rear brake rezzie covers and gas caps and other billet parts and let you pick like 7 peices or something casue i didnt want the clutch insert and a few other parts...

and some of the black and red powerbands..