Bansh-eman

they probly arnt as brite being they are a smaller bulb and less mirros shit behind the light to reflect ... but they light some shit up thats for sure! and you can drop 55 watt lights in vie the 35 to make them briter

jeff is a good guy... he will take care of you! he does this for a living... where jim does it on the side.... not to say jim doesnt know his shit... my old man ran a very respected shop out of our garage when we raced gokarts and he was a fulltime cop... so doesnt mean anything that they dont doit for a living just some peace of mind when getting ahold of them...

ellison when did you switch to rockets?

drop the tors power... splice into your yellow with red line power that goes to your lights... thats constant running power.. should solve it... how ever take that with a grain of salt cause im by no means an electrican! im just going by what common scence says how ever that not always the case with these

thats a little exsessive... loctite holds it fine

not sure of that game.. i got Call of Duty 3... graphics are pretty fukin good.... thing is you have to play it on an HDMI cable the composite cables are crap... i dought it... theres nothing it should be doing that a normal dvd player or blue ray player does any differant.. its simply sending a digital signal to the tv and projecting it on the screen...

i used to play, i havent played after i joined the corps... i got a 2001 Angel LCD C&C ,MacDev Conquest , Dezign custom bolt, cp chrome drop foward, 12 inch anodized dye boomsitck MacDec Gladiator reg...and tons of other shit i cant even remember its been so long.. i dropped about 2300 bucks into it all...

good luck i tried to trade my 2001 Angel LCD on here with a MacDev Conquest tank intellifeed hoper with a new board and alot more shit and had 1 hit

not a bad choice... i think you will like his work... i personally do business with jeff at FAST but jim knows his shit :thumbsup:

ezest thing to check would be pulling the plugs to see how they ran it (rich or lean)... check all the ball joints to see if they have any play... check the a-arms make sure they dont move up and down at the bolts... see if the chain rubs anything... check under the frame look for bends or any sign of bottming out hard... make sure the rear plastics lineup... uneven rears is very common in a bike thats been flipped and bent a little... check the break rotors see if they are flat or have grooves... listen to any noise the motor makes... see how dity the filter is, gives you a good idea how well the bike was maintained... same things as a used car just smaller...

lethaface polished his... but like duner said you got to keep polishing them to kep them nice, and with all those little spots , balls to that!

theres really no resone to do the 40.140,177 thing... i want to say its a 56mm but im not 100% this is what i do... get your self a pipe wrench like a plumber uses, and just put all your wieght on the first nut... then red loctite on the threads and tighten the second up and do the same thing with the wrench...

i want to say when i was running 34's i had a 155 main 52 pilot stock needle middle clip 2 turns.... start from there and you should beable to get it spot on

kevin makes so nice motors... i have sent a fw people to him off this site... he is a member of bhq but he mainly stays on planetsand.... like said above loco just casue you dont know him dosent mean he dosent make a good motor...

vitos and weiscos are the same pistons... the differance is vito has the ports cut to his spec so they are "vitos" super stocks or what ever type you get... you wont see much of a differance in performance but you will have a much more reliable motor. no reason to bore your motor out just to get minimal gains at the cost of motor life... keep the bore you have a hone it if you can, if not bore it one size... doesnt make scence to bore it well over whats needed for close to no gains

wellassuming your pilot is correct 2 turns out... but the onlyway to know is how its runs at idle....also can you kickit over and start it coldwithout the choke? a cold motor should have to have the choke pulled to start it then once its warm you should be ableto start it without...

wellif its not busted allto hell chancesare that notgoing to casue you to losse 100% electrical... it willcasue a weaker circut for sure, sounds like something else might be your problem. any time the flywheelhits the pickup it useually trashes it unlike yours just getting rubbed... get your self a multimeter and test your componants... go through your clymers and it will tell you how to test the parts..should help you narrow it down some

oh your saying that it runs good at low rpm but breaks up when riding? that could very well be your problem... i thought you ment just to get it running at all.... when your stator has a few broken coils how many and how bad are we talking?

yup the smaller the dome the higher the compression

like i say 100 times a day, the only 100% way to know is a compression test bro sorry.

yea alot of sony movies those wont decrypt any more... i havent bothered updating mine yet casue i dont come across many sony movies that where worth my time to worry over not having.. yea nero is great ... you can rip the iso back them up and run the disk like its legit where you download your pirate prog from? sux they shutdown suprnova

well any time you get a used bike you should do a few things t check it over before you take the old owner word... one is check the plugs see how he ran it rish or lean.. always clean the carbs you dont know how long it has sat... the jets and everything could be either dirty gummed up or both.. also make sure you do a compression test and see what the comp is so you know if the motor is in need of a rebuild... jeffs a site sponser on here hes got a banner on the front... his website is http://www.farmandsandtoys.com number is (785) 364-5325 youll like doing business with him, hes a great guy. he will talk you to fukin death lol dont call him if you dont have at least 20 min to talk sorry jeff its the truth :thumbsup:

a few damaged strands shouldnt make you get no spark the metal will still condust electricity... have you messured the distance of the pickup from the coil? you should be able to slide a match book in between them edit: not the entire match book if you open the flap... just that small part

what is he watching the distance of the star for?that adjuster is to makeup the play beofre your clutch actuator disengauges your clutch...only thing that moves is the pressure plate....but that wont move by turning that screw...

a 4mil stroker 5mil long rod for 650? no way you can get them much cheaper then that!