Bansh-eman

i came to the quick conclusion that my bie had 0 problems without it all yer and didnt lose a drop of collant... to where its once less thing to have on my bie wether it be weight (which it doesnt weigh jack) or just pure apperance... but the fact that i no longer have a hose the touches my pipes and melts every where for a bottle that does nothing was reason enough for me to get rid of it once i saw it was fine without it

lol oh u fuker your gong to get it....

im not holding my vf3 but as i recall there isnt metal on them any where so at max your motor would suck a reed and destroy it or melt the plastic clip that holds them in... a metal screw coming out and gettig sucked into your motor would do much more damage.

for you r/atv you can inspect the orings for any rips or taers and "could" reuse them if say you where out at glamis and had nothing else but if you have the means... get new o rings.. once you flatten them and run the motor they are no longer round and now they have formed them selfs to seal your head... trying to reuse them your never going to get a perfect seal becasue they are already shaped to the first time they where torqued down... for as cheap as they are buy new one and have the assurance that you did it right... not habiong to worry 4 miles out in glamis is well worth a few bucks

the chain i just sold from my +4 swinger with stock gearing of 14/41 was 115 links...plus the master...

humm close enough lol

iv noticed that the little heads of the spark plugs are beginning to viberate loose one my plugs now... but luckly im going with a nology and dont have t worry with my old coil any more...

lol... well seems ez enough... dont try to remember each line and do it step by step... theres 3 size hoes... he already knows the 2 large ones go from head to rad and from clutch cover to sace... so that leaves the meduim hose , the overflow hose and the vents... well theres only one place the medium size hoes fits and thats on the top of the head... the over flow down the frame caus tis not needed lol like it or not you know im right mark and thn the vents he got... so ill stand by my words lol.... i know the most confusing one is the third vent ... if you look at a floor room banshee it looks liek it runs to the radiator... when it only runs to th front of the bike and is left open... thats probly the hardest to figure out flying solo.... edit: god damnit i need to clean my keys out... some of the letters are sticking cause i have never cleaned the dirt off this fuker

redline does them also... chris hate to tell you bro but you need to spend some time on ehre researching your bike for a while before you jump into this... you will find a plethra of knowledge and questions that have been answered to help you understand everything you will need to accomedate the motor your looking for... with your broken sentences and spotty questions its challenging to gather your thoughts to give you the correct answer.. everything you need to know has been covered many many times... just do some searching and you will attain more info then you could ever need... then once you have a better understanding of how it all works, start gathering your thoughts and ask questions so we can understand what it is your looking for. And not do so much shooting in the dark...

i havent personally had experiance with the vf2 but word of mouth claims like jeff said they pull little more hp on the dyno... porblem is if the screws work them selfs out you got a whole new mess on your hands... at the sacrifice of 1hp id go with the vf3 but thats just me...

full of debris? im guessing is the abreviation.. either way they are syaing that a foreign object got in there like sand or metal nd casued damage in the first few sec by being thrown around in there and blown out the exhaust.. detonation would be more centralized or create large pits... this looks more like sand or something like stated above

the R means its a resistor plug... the plug has a resistor built into it to help cut back any frequancy interferance... when running cdis or higher out out coils they give off interferance in radiowaves.. this interferance can cause issues with a consistant spark and this is where the r comes in... same plug but with a resistor.. spark is just as hot lasts same amount of time...

dud 96 the hose routing is crazy ez.. read my first post i tell you where every line goes... the one from under the rad cap just run it down your frame... it goes to the overflow bottle but you dont need that bottle trash that thing... the medium hose gose from the only mediums outlet on the rad to the top back part of the head... then the vents from the back of the cases and the clutch cover go into the t and the third part just vents the two others... taje a littl more time and read it... everything you need is there

i cant see the pict on this computer at work... but the size of the brown ring... thats what your reading... from how big the ring is , how dark the ring is, and how far up on the porcelain it is...

plz tell me your joking right?

make sure you drain the coolant lol....u missed that 27 when you have the old impeler out check the seal and the bearing and make sure they are good before putting new one in... once you slide the new one in dont try and pound the cover back on... you hve to lineup the gears for th impeller or you will chew that thing to peices

no boring it 30 over isnt making you need to get a new crank.... in your first post the way i read it you had a 410 motor? if that was th case you would have a stroker crank... your kinda not making sence... clearify what you have and what you want to do.... casue i know you said something about a 410... boring 30 over with a stock stroke crank give u a 355... 30 over with a 4ml stroker give you a 381... if you have or are getting a stroker your going to have to cut the domes for the stroker... if your staying stock stroke a stock head will be fine.. once you hit 66mm bore you move to bb domes.... for your carbs what kind of riding will themotor be used for???

the large one with the metal shield goes from the bottom of your rad to your clutch side cover.. medium size hose goes to the top of the head...anothr larger hose goes from top of rad to the front of the head... then you should have a large hose that short and bent... that goes from the back of the head to the clutch side of the case... your overflow can be ran down your frame and dumped, no need to run the overflow into a bottle... the vent hose off your clutch cover and the vent hose from the center rear fitting of the case both go to the "T" spliter. then route the thrid hose to vent the two lines...it doesnt connect to anything Clear as mud?

do a search for the boost bottle its been covered many many times... your head... you are running a 410cc motor? im assuming your runng 67 mm pistons on a 4mil crank? that gets about as close to 410 that i can thnk of... if your running a stroker your going to need the domes cut.. putting a stock head on a stroked motor will make the pistons smack the head...

how long has it been from when it was last ran? carbs clean and your jetting right? before i even got to your part of your post about pulling it i was thinking you should try that, casue you say you got spark and fule is good... as long as you dont hear anything while kicking it over...pull start it..if it starts up and stays started you know you got a differant problem... i had an issue with my banshee a few years ago where the pilot was off and it wouldnt start but when i pulled it it would start then die... i knew right away what it was...

yamalube is pretty much all the lubricant you need... its priced reasonably well... if your buyig name brand products for premix your paying for just that....the name... honda and yamaha make very good oils.. the only oil that i dont use thats none yahalube in my banshee and in my wife yfz450 is the tranny oil in my banshee... i run gearsaver 80W stick with yamalube , 36:1 is what i run

how did you relocated it? make sure you dont have the coil and cdi right next to each other... can cause interferance..

the intaje boots are pretty much generic... must of them are interchangable... rmavt an shop should have them are be able to get them...

pm sent

i also went with fastnerguy... got a polished set for 104.00 and a little change after shipping..