Bansh-eman

actually that clymers is pretty good to show you step by step... read the adjusting part its very ez...

then porting and a stroker crank...get a lockup clutch and a dunable over ride...what kind of riding do you do?

in el cajon thers two gas stations... one off mulleson not sure if that spelled right... nd one off the 67 just a few blocks up... but that one yo got to get a membership to buy from them... i want to say its free but the hours are kinda wierd...6 or 7 bucks a gallon and mix it 50/50 with pump...

to know for sure 100% you would have to do a compression test but normally at sea level you can run 20-22cc domes on get away with premium... no im not saying anythign about a big bore kit... drop big bore kit from your head... theres ways you can get some huge power out of your stock cylinders... get a good port job... that has nothing to do with your bore size. its your transfers intakes and exhaust ports.... get a head with the right domes..pistons ,crank, reeds, intake, carbs, pipes, cdi, coil.... you dont have to go big bore to get some major gains

if you can get access to a impact gun thread the puller in all the way and one fast burrp from her and it should snap off... dont use the hub type puller with the arms casue you will get behind the flywheel and bust your magnets thn you got to buy one of those too ...

if you plan on running a stock crank... you can get some vrey nice gains out of your stok cylinders and not spend a ton on a big bore cheeta... unless your doing mostly drag racing id say your looking at the wrong motor... how ever the power vavles do help with the lower end that you miss on cubs... dont get so set on a big bore kit just to gain performance... your stock jugs can make some HUGE power with the right setup and port for much less then one of those kits... now to answer your other question... yes the size of your domes is primarily what will determine wht gas you need to run... the size of your domes increases or decreases your static compression and thats how you know what type of fuel to run... timing also make a small determination as well..

drian your oil and coolant... oils under the motor large bolt... fluid pull the radiator hose of the clutch cover side.. remove the clutch cover.. make sure you dont strip the screws out... you might want to look into getting an impact driver from sears to knock those loose... once inside the cover... take off all 6 springs... remove the adjuster in the center.. and pull the pressure plate off... pull off old plates, and stick the new ones one... start with the fiber plate then a steel ... stack them like that all the way ending with a fiber on both sides... unscrew your adjuster for the clutch all the way out, put your plate back on and and 3 springs... adjust your clutch with the center bolt... once its right put the other three on and torque all of them down... put cover on and refill fluids... theres torque specs to each bolt and adjusting the clutch is a little more difficult if you dont know what your doing but im assuming you know how to or can read about it...

it will not actually lower your temps 50 degrees... with a huge radiator and billet impeller and a GIANT fan blowing on it is how they came up with that number during thier testing... just like water wetter you will see a slight change but nothing insane... if you ride where it freezes in the winter you got to change out your coolant with some type of anti freeze, water wetter and engin ice both dont have freeze protection

cable came off a dual 35 pwk setup... Lonestar Hub SOLD!!!! thx Woodro77

well i went with ups... packed the motor in pillows and blankets inside a rubber made and drilled holes in the top to hold the lid on... cost me 93 bucks from san diego to holton ks and it will be there on friday

awsome... im on my way to ship my motor and drop off my frame for pc...

with ups did you ship it from a normal store or you have to take ti to a frieght store to send it out???

yea thats what i did... its in a rubber made packed with old pillows and blankets and has zip ties all around the top...i was going to go with ups but wasnt sure if there was any shipper thats better..

ok so i know greyhound shipps frames for like 125 cross country.. who is the best to use to ship a motor? i got it all packed up and ready to send but either way i know its going to cost quite a bit... havent ever shipped my motor before...

thnx smk...

yes i do pm sent

if you can still see the cross hatch on the sleeves id be willing to bet your bore is still good... and you went lean and fried your pistons... but without seeing them i cant say for sure....

ice come pre mixed you run it stright... water wetter you mix a small amount with distilled water..

yup your good then...

bel ray makes good products... you riding in sand or trails? if your riding in sand dont get something that really tacky or all the sand will stick to it... engine is yes blue yes.. i run redline water wetter and distilled water in mine ... as long as your not in really cold weather you should be good... if it freezes where you live you got to watch the cold seasons and make sure you use some anti freeze in your shit...

there was a post not long ago about how mod quad impellers have had issues with burrs and rippping the seals.. i havent see any but that doesnt mean they arnt out there.. i want to say the pro designs re a fe bucks more but i havent heard anything bout them having issues with burrs

grippers your ok but this mark a hole needs to go somewhere else lol...

:thumbsup:

oh for sure a cub without a lockup makes as much sence as bangin a hooker without a rubber...

they are for sure worth the money.... your clutch plates will last forever... all your power that slipped before will hit your tires now.... you got the cover too right? you cant just throw it on there with the stock cover it will hit... also once you get the cover your going to have to tweak your brake peddle some so it doesnt hit...