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Bansh-eman

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Everything posted by Bansh-eman

  1. wow im a tool! missed the "UN" in unstatisfied....
  2. couldnt tell you.. i didnt look at the mag, not sure if it the april versio or an older march or what...it was on his table and i glaned ovr saw it and we left...im hoping thats what it is...
  3. they look jus like the alba nerfs
  4. if you have an air compressor... chuck up the bit that used to blow things off.. place it right up to the bar and grip and it will come right off...
  5. lol they better have been .. in the time of the spartans they wore plates of steel armor to protect them in battle... much less carrying a 100 or so lbs sword axe or mace... duders cant be small luging all that sht around...
  6. thats fine... i was heading out the door at my buddys house and he was like hey you seen this? i saw on the cover what it said and just told him man dont get me started...so i havent read anything, or heard about this story even until tonight...
  7. tri-flow is a great product.. only draw back is it drys reletivly fast so you got to keep applying it if your out for a long weeknd.. but like 2003 said it wont collect sand all over your chain like others will...
  8. well an update on the cacade nuts... got them in, NOT chromed by any means... im hoping they sent the wrong ones... but if these are thier version of chromed do your self a favor and polish your stock nuts... ill be calling them tomorrow to try and resolve this but as of now im very satisfied with the product...
  9. anyone see the newest DirtWheels mag? theres an article about a 4 stroke 500cc Banshee... i didnt read it cause i was on my way out the door but wondering what Yamaha was thinking or if its just so custom bike someone made....
  10. for future ref. if your putting a pingle on an ims tank (should also be same for stock) the plastic that seperates the two valves, for the on and reserve positions on your tank... get s razor blade and cut that part straight down... if you messure the gasket it fit a 1/2 inch drill bit perfect. i went one size smaller and use that to clean up the inside of the plastic to smooth out where the razor didnt reach well... took some gas and rinsed out the tank of any loose plastic... now take the pingle base and screw it on the valve... make sure when you seperate the two you leave it facing the right direction of how it will mount on your tank so when you tighten the valve into the base your pingle lines up right... once you decide where it will stop( be sure you dont tighten it much because your going to add thread tape and that will keep it from turning as much once you tighten it down) remove the valve from the base , keeping the base facing the correct direction place the gasket on the tank and screw the base down... now holding the valve with the screen facing you wrap your threads 2-3 time with thread tape clock wise... make ure you dont go off the threads and into the tank as much as you can...smooth out the tape on the threads and tighten the valve down... once you get to where it should aline it should stop just shy of where you hand tightened it before becasue of the thread tape.. grab a rag and wrap your valve.. you can use a wrench or like i did just hands and turn the valve the rest of the way to line it up... fits good and doesnt have much area opened to leak as origanaly thought....
  11. you both have pm's
  12. so do that but personally i dont see the point ... you can buy a harness off ebay for a fe bucks... why bother getting more wires going though a diagram and solder them back on... sees like it would cost just as much to buy one and alot less work.. just me though
  13. your key if you have one will turn it off.. or splice in a tether... also you wouldnt need to pull the plugs... put in in gear and dump it, that will kill it too... if your not racing where your required a therth you can get a cr 250 killswitch use that... push style rather then a switch... of not same principles when wiring it in.... like said before do some searching... all of these topics have ben covered several time and many of them have diagrams and very good explanitions on how to do what your trying for...
  14. do a search , the topic was coverd no more then a week ago for the regulator... some good info was in the post for your harness... im assuming you arnt running lights? if not you pretty much got it in your post...
  15. well you might as well take them if you want the head csue its same price.. im just getting rid of the domes with it casue i have no use for them... and i figure soeone might rather get some that are with the head... also let it be known the domes are cut ... they arnt for stock stroke motor
  16. lol i read it and then deleted it beor i saw this post... to quit to clean out my pm's
  17. bump skiddy bump
  18. i cant be certain but it sounds like your losing pressure around your tester. are you using just flat metal with wing nuts to block your exhaust side? if so it might be a little mroe of a pain in the ass but ge some yamabond or silicon and make a gasket with it and that will insure your exhaust side has a very tight seal...
  19. lol and you should you grimmy!!!
  20. are you sure you got a really good seal when you put it on?
  21. iv have also looked at them and wondered how much of a part they play in keeping the motor from twisting when you hammer it... but if i got them on there, no reason to rick it and take them off to find out the hard way 4 miles or so in the middle of the desert
  22. humm same with mine... it went right in nice and snug, spin it and the bearing went with it... cant say there was any play...
  23. hey guys who here has got a Dual Pingle Valve on a IMS 4 gallon tank? when installing it, did you just cut the center of the tank between the reserve and main pilot holes off? looks like that what im going to have to do but kinda looks like the whole wont seal up very well... let me here what you guys did and picts if you got them... Thnx
  24. i do three heat cycles... start it and idle to operating temp around 15 to 20 min usally... let it cool ALL the way down.. dont rush it, the metal needs to cool all the way so it expands and contracts as much as it can... do that three times for a total of an hour then your first ride go out and ride it but dont bomb on it... shift threw all the gears up and down several times... let it cool, but doesnt have to be all the way. then ride it like you stole it...
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