Bansh-eman

thats crazy to think that there are moose just roaming around. im in san diego so we got immigrants running around and thats about it. those things are agressive as fuk arnt they?

this is the part number to the bolts for the hub 90114-10009-00

mind tossng up a link to him?

are you talking about the nut on the bottom of the stem or the one thats inside the frame?

i want to say a 14/41 with a +4 is like 113..

i went to a site and put in to buy one of everything for the exhaust, the nuts bolts everything and it was 1600 bucks lol

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jayz same thing for us last year cept i was the one helping a guy, he got stuck and i pulled my truck over to yank him out, well he had already moved the sand so much that my truck started to sikn too. so a guy that was with us hooked you to his truck AND toyhauler and puled them out.

unless you find someone with used ones, they are going to be about the same prie everywhere you go. i want to say the bolt is like 7 bucks, and the nut is like 4. i think they even chrage like 3 bucks for a washer. so see if you cant find some on ebay or someone that parts bikes

Dave, i think he was trying to check it with the ring on the piston and thats why he couldnt do it... 4stroker, you need to put the ring in the cylinder and use your piston to make sure its nice and even. then put your feeler gague down in there and messure the gap, the ring does not need to be on the piston when your checking it.

the part that is circled is the pin that gets welded. you need to take it out of the cases and use a tig to weld it.

if you want to raise your compression there becomes a point where you need to up the octane. benifits of higher compression is more bottom end. once you start creating more power your going to want your crak welded.

save your money and dont buy the nology, there is no need for you to get it. use that money to get some bigger carbs.

spaking of which, i need to get inline for one once i get my bike completed

yea, its the sleeve that goes into the tube and the pivot bolt goes through it

Like the title says, looking for the swinger sleeve insert. needs to be in good condition. let me know what you have

also using the stripper on the jugs can eat the cylinder walls up if it gets on them.

As expected, Dinner is an awsome buyer! Sold him some nerfs. Sent them out before getting payment. No worries with this cat. Standup guy! Your missing out if your not doing business with him!

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Nate is a badass builder but it sounds like your more of a weekend warrior and not into some seriouse drag racing. Give Kevin a call at Herrjugsracing. he will set you up a great trail motor and an awsome price and a killer turn around time! i have sent alot of guy to him and i have only heard great responses. not a single bad thing. you already have a crank so sell your cub, but some fresh stockers and have kevin port them. with the right port job and pipes those 33 pwk will be fine on it. i run 35 pwk's on mine last year with shearers before switching to a cub

you can use aircraft paint stripper. kinda makes a mess, and make sure you dont get it on youir skin cause it will et that shit up... or if you have access to sand blaster tape it all off and blast it

i think what he ment was that it doesnt make more power for the motor, but it will make your light brighter at low rpms. :shrug:

^^^Agree^^^

lol dont feel bad man, i know of guys that actually ran the motor before they realized it wasnt in there

i have had bad luck with moving the center needle arm. when i got my 35's the guy i rode with set one of the carbs like that and my damn bike wouldnt run. didnt even dawn on me that could have been it. i set it back to jeff and when he got it he was like wtf did you do to the center arm? then i realized it was the carb that he set that was f'ed. it takes a little more time to move the two floats but you dont have to worry about messing up that center arm and getting it off centered over the valve.