David Keith

I've got a motor torn apart right now because it wouldn't stay "in gear" during full throttle. The shifter detent arm has a crack in it & it is bent. This causes the rotation of the shifting drum to be slightly "out of phase". I'm going to weld it up & re-align it. If that doesn't fix it, a shifting fork may be bent...

Hi Temp RTV is great sealant for just about everything else. It is quick & easy to remove when you take something apart again as well.

If you've tried these other tips & the broken extracter & bolt are still in, a dremel hand grinder with a carbide grinding tip can be used to grind away all of it. Why don't you try this?

That's right. When you take the time to research the "boost bottle", you'll find only "suggestive data" about performance increases. There is alot of "talk", not facts to back them.

Before you weld it, can you clean up the inside of tube ends & fit a sleeve inside. This will add more strength.

Have you done the plug chop yet? We haven't heard.

You can figure out whether or not it is the plug wire by swapping them. If the problem follows the spark plug wire, it's electrical. You can buy a coil from a member here. You stated that you don't use the choke on that side, how do you start it? It must be modified if it has 170 psi.

If the 320 jets are right already, then boring 0.020 or 0.040 inch over will not require a jet increase. If your air box lid was on but now it's removed, the metering needle clip needs to be moved down one or two notches to avoid hesitation.

Just a question here about the very small difference. If we do the math, A=(pi)(radius squared), we find that 26mm diameter has about 531 sq mm of flow area. 28mm diameter has about 615 sq mm of flow area & thats 84 sq mm more than stock. This added amount divided by 531 equals a 16% increase in flow area... Isn't this a pretty significant increase?

Good advise. Why tear apart a perfectly good motor if there is nothing wrong with it? When you do have some extra time & money, some FMF fatties with an airbox change to free-flowing K & N air filters will give you the most added power for the your dollar though. This will involve jetting changes with metering needle adjustments as well.

That is a very good explanation. Why do most Banshee riders prefer +4 degrees? If it fires earlier than recommended, what is the real benefit?

That's how the Yamaha service manual shows it as well. Water side facing the impeller. Be sure to use a new gasket while you have it apart.

That's right. The standard bore diameter is 64.00 to 64.10 mm. I your jugs are typical first over (0.020 inch), then the bore should measure 64.50 to 64.51 mm. If measures larger, it should be like a half millimeter multiple. Be sure to match your piston size to the right bore size.

Good advice. About that "C', I think he means he wants the temperature in metric units. Doesn't he remember how easy it is to convert? "C" degrees=5/9(F degrees-32) & "F" degrees=9/5(C degrees + 32)

Quite a few people think they have 28 mm carbs by measuring the diameter where it tucks into the manifold. Stock carbs are really 26 mm diameter where they are machined down in the throat of the carb. If those Keihns are a true 28 mm, thats already got 15 percent more area of flow than stock. If they are 30 mm, thats' more than 30 percent more area of flow than stock! That quite a bit. Is that too large?

What type of air filter &/or air box do you have? Are your carbs stock? Give us a little more detail & we can offer suggestions... Does it have good compression?

NO PROBLEM. Just find a friend who can fly-cut the larger radius required using a Bridgeport mill.

The locktite should be fine. When you look close at your picture, there are 1/1/2 threads showing. Isn't that how thick the lockwasher is?

Doesn't your flywheel puller have wrench flats on it? So that you can thread it in until it bottoms, then put a wrench across the flats to hold it from twisting while you tighten the screw that applys pressure against the end of the crank. Surely you can tighten it till it pops loose...

If you don't have a vacuum pump, you can always make an aluminum adapter to fit ontop of your resevoir. Then, you can apply less than 10 psi of air pressure to the resevoir. Pulling the brake lever back & forth then will push out the trapped air. This is called a "power bleed". I have several different plates like this that have a 1/4 inch NPT tapped hole to input air. PM me if you want more details.

What size mains are you running right now? Does it still have the stock airbox, lid on, with your new UNI air filter? Have you changed the clip position on the metering needle(s)? How far out are the air screws? If you turn them in all the way, then twist out about half a turn, this will richen the starting...

Thanks for the show of support to dajogerjr... He has helped me & many other people with good sound advise. Dajogejr is a stand up guy who knows what he is talking about... he spends alot of time helping people... As far as this new guy goes, well, some people just haven't learned that the way to learn, is with an open mind...

It is the largest mushroom that our family has ever found! Eleven inches tall & more than four & a half inches wide...

Yes it is 32mm, which is just a tad smaller than 1.250 inches. The american 1-1/4 will work fine.

Just remember to install it from the rear brake pedal side.