David Keith

Yes it sounds right. Just remember to keep reving it up & down while riding it. You don't want to ride at a steady RPM until after its broken in. Good luck!

That's right! These flywheels aren't designed to be pulled that hard from around the outer diameter.

When I had some electrical issues last year, you guys advised me to call Ricky Stator Inc. I ended up sending them the CDI unit, coils, pick up sensor, stator & flywheel. They tested it all for free & sent it back to me. They said it all was good & the problems were somewhere else, not in the components I sent them. They could have sold me a bunch of stuff, but they didn't... They are a good company. They have good policies. Can you show me any company that is perfect? Come on guys, are we expecting too much?

Usually that only happens when there is not enough free play in the clutch adjustment. Try to keep an eye on that.

Just in case you want to do a leak test yourself, here is all you need.

Check out this test kit.

Remember to torque the engine in the recommended steps as well.

That's 12.5 to 1 compression ratio! Is your gauge accurate? If so, keep using your higher octane fuel.

Go ahead & remove the head & cylinders to check em out. It's not really that big of a deal. I've had one seize before & it seemed fine after it cooled. I took it apart & it was partially seized in four different spots. Better to catch it before more damage is done. I was able to clean out the aluminum & re-hone it. If you seize it more, a bore job might be required...

I've had good luck using PB Blaster as well. Apply it liberally & give it some time to soak Be careful if you apply heat when using any aerosal oil sprays...

Before you assume the reeds are bad, have you checked your jetting? What about the metering needle height? Was everything running great & now it bogs right after you installed the vito reeds? No they are not junk reeds. Are the reed petals closing all the way?

Nice picture. That's exactly what he needs. Be sure & remove the carbs before drilling & tapping them.

Your compression is great. Let us know if you notice a significant change by advancing your timing.

There really isn't that "big" of load applied to that area. So a weld will be fine. You may have to machine some clearance if the welder applies to much. You should be able to get it welded & cleaned up for less that $50.

Your axle bearing are designed for radial load, not side load. Like these men are advising you, take it back apart & put it together the "right way". Sure the way you have it will work temporarily, but do you really want to risk it?

This is what I use: (2) 1-3/8 inch diameter expansion plus (rubber) to seal off the exhaust ports (2) 1.380 diameter x 0.75 wide aluminum plugs to fit into carb. adapters One of these is solid & the other has an 1/8th inch NPT threaded hole. This has a pipe nipple with a tee fitting attached. One end has a 0 to 15 psi gauge & the other has an 1/8" ball style on-off valve. It has a quick disconnect fitting attached. Then I only fill the air tank to six psi. Connect it & let air in. You have to be very careful to only allow 6 psi air pressue into your engine. Then close the ball valve. If it maintains six psi pressure for three minutes, its okay. But if it looses pressure, you have to trace the leak. Everybody uses different ways to accomplish the same thing. Other ways might work, but this way is proven.

Are your air filters clean? Are the carbs synchronized? How long has it been since the carb's have been cleaned? Have you checked your timing? How is the compression? Most problems can be found by going thru the basics. Good luck.

Listen to dajogejr. He's onto your problem. Just get the items needed to do a leak-test & the problem will be revealed. I had one leaking last year between the cases. All things visible to the naked eye were fine. Only the leak-test showed the problem. Nothing else would have showed me the problem.

When you say it started to "wind out" & you had to kill it, what do you mean? Is the throttle sticking? Does it "wind out" on its own? What size are your pilots? How many turns out are your idle/air screws? Where are your metering needle clips? We need more data...

You can use them over. It sounds normal. Each time you let on & off the throttle, those disk tabs bump back & forth because of the play that's built into the clutch basket. This rotatinal clearance is needed. Do not file them. If you file them, who is to say that you will remove equal amounts of material from each finger? Then there will be un-even contact when the disk tabs bump against each basket finger.

Yes, it's the largest one I've ever found. Right here in Ohio, just above Dayton. It was an eleven incher!

You guys are right. I had a set of cylinders bored out last year & the machinist assured me that the cylinders did not need to be chamfered... I argued with him & he said to try running it with the fresh bore job/ not chamfer. It locked up in less than five minutes.

Sure sounds like the choke cross-over tube is unhooked or leaking...

This is good advise.

YOU ALWAYS replace the engine cases as a MATCHED SET... When they are machined at the factory, they are sorted by lots & pairs and final machining is as a matched set. Please don't cause yourself unneeded problems by trying to prove that you can get by without a matched set.