David Keith

When its' running, does it speed up or slow down if you spray starting fluid around the intake manifold area? This will help determine if there is a vacuum leak. When you cleaned the carb, did you verify that the low speed jet circuit passes carb cleaner thru all the tiny holes?

When you changed the intake & intake gaskets, did you go ahead & clean the carbs? Was it running fine before? What has changed since the last time that it was running great? Have you modified or changed anything lately? Is it jetted right for your mods? Has it ever been?

Are you talking about the fuel flow cross over tube?

Yes, at sea-level to 1500 feet above, you can generally use "pump gas". Remember that the higher the octane rating, the slower the fuel detonates. It actually " explodes" slower. That's why you should advance the timing when you use higher octane fuels. Yes, at sea-level to 1500 feet above, you can generally use "pump gas" with compression ratios less than 9 to 1. Remember that the higher the octane rating, the slower the fuel detonates. It actually " explodes" slower. That's why you should advance the timing when you use higher octane fuels. At seal-level, the normal atomshpere pressure is 14.7 psi, so it your compression is 10 to 1, you should have 147 psi compression. Generally you can round off to 15 psi for easier figuring.

Anytime there is more than a ten percent difference in compression between cylinders, you should find the problem & correct it. Just my opinion after working on all kinds of Japanese bikes for more that thirty years. :cool:

Have you ever heard of KROIL brand of penetrating oil? Thats what several machine shops & the utility companies use here in Troy, Ohio. Kroil has worked when others haven't. Good kuck.

What might happen if you open it up & its' too lean. Might seize a piston... Why not start out with a #340 main to be safe. Then get a read on the plugs (plug chop) & go from there.

Right on! Do not run it untill you solve the problem. Just take a dial indicator & touch of on the end of the crankshaft & the TIR should be less than 0.003 inch. You can see if there is any free play in the bearing at the same time. If there is not a problem found, check the TIR with the flywheel attached. Better to identify the cause before more damage is done.

I've got a 2001 Banshee with the same type of "hard to start when cold" problem. Mine has 125 pis compression, 27.5 low speed jets, 340 mains, new crankshaft assembly with first over pistons and a Ricky Stater "checked out good" electrical system. It holds 5.5 psi for more than 20 minutes. Could the choke/starter jet circuit be the culprit??? Anyone have a set of stock carb's for sale??? PM me. Sounds like the choking system just isn't right...

The Yamaha manual states pickup coil resistance white/red to white/green is 94 to 140 ohms.

It held 5.5 psi for twenty minutes, then it dropped to 5 psi, held that for twenty more minutes. Before the overhaul, it didn't have much draw or suction at the carburetor. Now I just want to make sure it's ready before re-installing motor. I have been told that it should not leak between the cylinders...

2001 Banshee has completely rebuilt engine. It leaked between cylinders before overhaul. -new crankshaft with o-rings on inner bearings & middle seal -new pistons with bored cylinders (first over) -used Yamabond on all mating surfaces when I put it together Now it will not hold 6 psi on either cylinder. It leaks from one cyl. to the other... Why won't this thing hold pressure? Any ideas??? :: I have plugged both exhaust ports, plugged both cross-over pipe holes & installed a custom manifold applying six psi into one intake adapter. It just blows out the other intake!

You can buy a ready to use new one from Magic Racing on line that has an o-ring around the middle seal. Be sure to make sure that the ejector pin relief pockets don't leak from one cylinder to the next if one is wider than your middle seal. That would spoil your efforts whether you install a used crank or a new one. Good luck!

Yes. If there is not enough "running clearance" between the top of the piston & the milled head, problems will follow. The rod will stretch when revved high, thats' not theory, it is a fact. He needs to use some modeling clay to verify the 0.032 inch clearance BEFORE trying to run or check compression.

I have my Banshee torn apart right now so I measured the clutch retainer nut. It measures 1.250 inches.

Yes, call Ricky stator. Those guys are smart & honest. I sent my CDI unit, coils & stator to them for testing. They found it to be good & did not charge me at all, just had to pay for shipping.

This is good advise... Nothing to add.

That is done.

When you adjusted the c-clip height, the two screw retainer was removed. It does matter how it goes in. The groove of the throttle slide should face the cable groove of the retainer when you put it back together. Thats' important. The rotational orientation matters.

That is good logical advise. Our readers should heed your suggestions.

M8 diamter X 1.25 pitch. It is very important that you buy a standard replacement stud. Then torque in steps to 26 to 30 pounds per foot of torque in steps. This achieves proper preload that works with the gaskets. If you use something other than the standard stud, it wil be a comprimise.

That's it... The question is "how fast do you get up to speed" that counts.

It definitely has an electrical problem. The timing light only flashes about half the time when connected to the right side spark plug wire!!! I took the coil & blackbox to a local Yamaha dealer. They said the coils checks good & there is no way to test the blackbox. They said it is probably the blackbox ($351) or ignition stator ($371). Where can I get a blackbox to swap & try?

What is the proper amount of torque anyway?

Yes it can be TIG welded. But the case ahlves have to be split entirely. You also may have to machine on the opposite side of the weld where it burns thru. If you choose to have it welded, find an experienced welder.